Dermaceutic: My opinion of their cosmetics
Dermaceutic, my opinion | Dermatological expertise at the heart of cosmetics
Dermaceutic face care review | dermatologist opinions and anti-aging expertise
In 2002, several French skin experts joined forces with "Science dermintelligence" to develop their brand of chemical peels: Dermaceutic. Numerous positive reviews from dermatologists and their patients quickly made them France's leading exfoliation medical device. Subsequently, they marketed a complementary range of facial care products, positioned in the cosmeceuticals market. Based on science, their teams integrate active ingredients directly inspired by aesthetic medicine. So, are these cosmetics as effective as their professional line? To answer that question, here's my review of Dermaceutique products, with my opinion on their skincare formulas and my recommendations.
Dermaceutic, dermatologists' opinions on professional peels
Their first ambition was to support aesthetic medicine professionals and their patients. They therefore specialized in chemical peels based on TCA (trichloroacetic acid), developed and available exclusively for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. This is a so-called medium exfoliation, as the TCA reaches the dermis. It is highly effective in reducing wrinkles and pigmentation spots.
In 2004, the laboratory launched its first two products, Cosmo Peel, with TCA concentrations of 15 and 18 %. This was followed by higher concentrations of 20 and 30 %.
These medical devices are increasingly used by aesthetic medicine professionals in Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Dermaceutic's reputation and expertise are reflected in the opinions of dermatologists and aesthetic surgeons who endorse every Dermaceutic product. In response to this recognition, the medium peel brand launched its first cosmeceuticals range in 2007, this time aimed at both the general public and professionals. With 30,000 employees worldwide, the company inspires confidence. Many doctors recommend and use their facial care products to perfect and maintain the skin after injections, laser or chemical peels.
Dermaceutic products, my opinion
I use their professional products myself at the beauty salon. While their highly dosed chemical peels are effective, their cosmeceutical treatments build on this expertise and take care of the beauty of your complexion.
Many of their formulas are designed to retexturize the skin and treat skin irregularities:
correct pigmentation spots caused by photoaging or acne scars;
treating melasma;
reduce dark spots;
brighten, illuminate the complexion.
They incorporate scientifically recognized active ingredients capable of penetrating the skin barrier. Their teams also offer skincare solutions for dehydrated, dry and mature skin. And for those who love "made in France", all Dermaceutic products are developed and manufactured in France. Their entire skincare catalog is suitable for vegans.
On the downside, we're talking about "all-school" compositions, but quality nonetheless. Their formulas often contain alcohol, sometimes BHT and hydrocarbon derivatives.
It offers 4 sunscreen formulas with SPF 50 against UVA and B rays, but each contains metoxycinnamate, a controversial organic filter. It is thought to be an endocrine disruptor. Two other formulas, Sun ceutic emulsion and Sun ceutic tinted, contain nanoparticles of titanium oxide, zinc and filter. For those uncomfortable with this size of molecule, you'll have to move on.
Finally, their prices are quite high, often between 30 and 60 euros for 30 ml bottles.
Dermaceutic Vitamin C
Dermaceutic Vitamine C offers just one formula based on pure vitamin C, while the other 6 use derivatives.
For dull skin, dotted with brown or reddish spots and looking for a pro-collagen treatment, tri Vita C30 serum is a good alternative. It contains a high concentration of pure ascorbic acid 15 %. Its fluid texture gives your skin a velvety finish. I recommend it for tissues used to this dosage. This molecule is also a powerful antioxidant to protect your skin from oxidative stress and therefore from skin aging. Laboratoire Dermaceutic combines this active ingredient with 14.5 % ascorby silanon, another antioxidant complex derived from this vitamin. It uses one of the best synergies of active ingredients to multiply the effects of vitamin C, namely vitamin E and ferulic acid. At the same time, it incorporates sphingolipids, phospholipids and minerals to support your skin and lipid barrier, which is also involved in anti-aging prevention.
My overall opinion of Dermaceutic Tri Vita C30 is positive. I have only two reservations.
The presence of denatured alcohol, ranked fourth in the Inci list, whose drying effects are offset by the presence of film-forming agents and fats. So I wouldn't recommend it for dry, sensitive or damaged skin.
The price is rather high, with a 30 ml bottle costing over 70 euros.
For skin more reactive to pure ascorbic acid, try Dermaceutic C25 Cream. Perfect for skin lacking radiance looking for a little prevention against aging induced by UV rays, stress or smoking. This ultra-vitaminized cream is a genuine anti-free-radical shield thanks to its vitamin C complex, found under the name Methylsilanol Pectinate dosed at 25 %. Its pro-aging and regenerating activities are reinforced by a vitamin A derivative (retinyl palmitate), vitamin E and panthenol (vitamin B5). I note the presence of a small amount of alcohol at the end of the Dermaceutic C25 formula. It costs around 50 euros for a 30-ml airless bottle.
Dermaceutic Retinol
In my opinion, retinol is the key molecule in your pro-aging beauty routine. It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Its keratolytic effect erases blemishes from your complexion. For more information on this molecule, please watch the video : RETINOL, the best Anti-Aging, Wrinkle and Acne cream? - YouTube
Dermaceutic Laboratoire offers two pure retinol-based formulas: Activ Retinol Intense anti-aging serum. They are identical, only the percentage of retinoids varies. I recommend the 0.5 % serum for beginners. With pure retinol, it's essential to start gradually, to let your skin get used to this new molecule. 1 % is reserved for skin types that tolerate low doses perfectly. Alongside it, vitamin C derivative and vitamin E fight free radicals. Ceramides strengthen the skin's lipid barrier, which also plays a role in premature aging and skin dryness. To counter any discomfort caused by retinol, panthenol and allantoin soothe and repair irritated tissues. The emollient humectant ratio helps retain moisture. Dermaceutic retinol, with its positive consumer reviews, restores your skin's elasticity and improves firmness, fine lines and wrinkles.
Both formulas come at a price: between 50 and 60 euros for a 30 ml pump bottle, depending on the dosage chosen.
Dermaceutic glycolic acid
The 15 % in glycolic acid solution help regenerate your keratinocytes and brighten your complexion. This alpha hydroxy acid is the smallest of the fruit acids. Turn over night cream takes advantage of your sleep to easily penetrate and unclog pores. It revitalizes cell renewal, which slows down with age. Its moisturizing action, combined with that of glycerin, maintains skin pressure around these openings and keeps them tight. Its high fat and emollient content makes it ideal for normal to dry skin. On the other hand, I wouldn't recommend it for damaged or atopic tissue, as its acidity would cause more reactivity and tingling.
Very effective, the Turn-over formula is, in my opinion, relevant for retexturizing skin texture, but is not sufficient on its own to prevent the effects of aging on your tissues. A 30 ml pump bottle costs just over 30 euros.
On the cleansing side, Dermaceutic Foamer 15, with its excellent reviews on the web, caught my eye. "15" is the number of ingredients and the concentration of 15 % glycolic acid in this simple but effective formula. This exfoliating foam is designed for dull complexions dotted with imperfections, and thick, irregular skin grains. Given its composition, I recommend it for normal to oily skin. To support this high dosage, enoxolone provides its anti-inflammatory and soothing virtues. In concrete terms, this hygiene product removes impurities, dead cells and excess sebum, leaving skin clean and clear, ready to receive the active ingredients of your beauty routine. Dermaceutic Cleansing Foam purifies and illuminates your skin.
Note: the mousse is applied to a cleansed and dried face. After two minutes of circular movements, or as soon as the first tingling sensation appears, rinse off. A 5 % version is available for reactive skin types requiring a lower concentration of fruit acid. Sold in 100 ml pump bottles for around thirty euros.
Dermaceutic hyaluronic acid
Dermaceutic's Hyal ceutic moisturizing cream is ideal for restoring the cutaneous barrier of dehydrated, dry and sensitive skin. Formulated alcohol-free, fragrance-free and vegan, it's packed with fats to make up for the lipid deficiency of dry skin and prevent insensible water loss:
shea butter ;
jojoba oil ;
wheat germ oil ;
isopropyl palmitate dry oil.
On the humectant and repairing side, we find 5.5 %, a solution of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid combined with propylene glycol. They draw water from the dermis, serums or toners into your epidermis. Aloes vera repairs and soothes the discomfort of dry skin.
On the other hand, contrary to the brand's claims, the presence of large quantities of plant oils and film-forming agents is not optimal for combination to oily skin. Dermaceutic day cream, Hyalceutic, costs around forty euros for a 40 ml pump bottle.
Dermaceutic chemical peel versus Dermaceutic beauty product.
In short, when it comes to chemical peels, which I use in my practice, I'm happy with this brand. On the cosmeceutical side, they have transposed their galenic expertise and developed effective face care products. As with many other marquess, you need to sort things out according to your skin type and reactivity. Of course, this is just a small selection of their products, so leave me a comment if you'd like me to unpack another Dermaceutic formula.