{"id":8312,"date":"2023-12-02T11:10:55","date_gmt":"2023-12-02T10:10:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/?page_id=8312"},"modified":"2026-05-30T23:18:51","modified_gmt":"2026-05-30T21:18:51","slug":"vitamin-c-derivatives","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamine-c\/derives-vitamine-c\/","title":{"rendered":"Why use vitamin C derivatives in cosmetics?"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"bd-brand\"><style>\n.bd-brand .bd-hub-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr));gap:16px;margin-top:8px}\n.bd-brand .bd-hub-card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px;padding:24px 26px;background:rgba(255,255,255,0.6);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.95);border-radius:22px;backdrop-filter:blur(20px);text-decoration:none;transition:transform 0.25s ease,box-shadow 0.25s ease;box-shadow:0 10px 40px rgba(42,36,56,0.04)}\n.bd-brand .bd-hub-card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px);box-shadow:0 22px 55px rgba(42,36,56,0.1)}\n.bd-brand .bd-hub-card-tag{font-family:var(--bd-sans);font-size:11px;font-weight:600;color:var(--bd-accent);letter-spacing:0.06em;text-transform:uppercase}\n.bd-brand .bd-hub-card h3{font-family:var(--bd-serif);font-weight:500;font-size:20px;line-height:1.2;color:var(--bd-ink);letter-spacing:-0.01em;margin:0}\n.bd-brand .bd-hub-card-arrow{font-family:var(--bd-serif);font-style:italic;font-size:14px;color:var(--bd-accent);margin-top:auto;padding-top:4px}\n.bd-brand .bd-video-wrap{position:relative;width:100%;aspect-ratio:16\/9;border-radius:22px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:0 22px 55px rgba(42,36,56,0.12);margin-top:8px}\n.bd-brand .bd-video-wrap iframe{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;border:0}\n.bd-brand .bd-prob-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(240px,1fr));gap:16px;margin-top:8px}\n.bd-brand .bd-prob-card{padding:26px 28px;background:rgba(255,255,255,0.6);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.95);border-radius:22px;backdrop-filter:blur(20px);box-shadow:0 10px 40px rgba(42,36,56,0.04)}\n.bd-brand .bd-prob-card .bd-prob-num{font-family:var(--bd-serif);font-style:italic;font-size:26px;color:var(--bd-accent);line-height:1}\n.bd-brand .bd-prob-card h4{font-family:var(--bd-serif);font-weight:500;font-size:20px;line-height:1.2;color:var(--bd-ink);letter-spacing:-0.01em;margin:10px 0 4px}\n.bd-brand .bd-prob-card .bd-prob-inci{font-family:var(--bd-serif);font-style:italic;font-size:13.5px;color:var(--bd-accent);margin:0 0 8px}\n.bd-brand .bd-prob-card p{font-family:var(--bd-sans);font-size:14.5px;line-height:1.6;color:var(--bd-ink-soft,#5a5560);margin:0}\n.bd-brand>p:empty{display:none!important}\n.bd-brand>p{margin:0!important}\nhtml body .bd-brand .bd-section{padding:48px 0 !important}\nhtml body .bd-brand .bd-hero{padding-bottom:8px !important}\nhtml body .bd-brand .bd-hero .bd-hero-meta{margin-bottom:0 !important}\nhtml body .bd-brand .bd-dark{margin-top:24px !important;margin-bottom:24px !important}\nhtml body .bd-brand .bd-final{padding-top:48px !important;padding-bottom:48px !important;margin-top:0 !important}\n@media (max-width:900px){html body .bd-brand .bd-section{padding:36px 0 !important}html body .bd-brand .bd-hero{padding-top:56px !important}html body .bd-brand .bd-eyebrow{margin-top:8px}}\n<\/style><section class=\"bd-hero\" style=\"padding-bottom:8px !important;padding-top:56px !important\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-eyebrow\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/\" style=\"color:inherit;text-decoration:none\">Guide skincare - Vitamin C<\/a><\/span><h1>Vitamin C derivatives - <em>which are effective<\/em> according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.<\/h1><p class=\"bd-hero-sub\">Vitamin C derivatives are gentler, more stable alternatives to pure vitamin C, ideal for sensitive skin. The most interesting are ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. All are believed to transform into vitamin C in the skin, with evidence mainly in vitro. Conversely, ascorbyl palmitate is disappointingly unhelpful. None can match the potency of pure vitamin C.<\/p><div class=\"bd-hero-meta\"><div class=\"bd-hero-meta-item\"><span>Subject<\/span><strong>Ascorbic acid derivatives<\/strong><\/div><div class=\"bd-hero-meta-item\"><span>Method<\/span><strong>Verdict Sensitivity - Dr David's rule<\/strong><\/div><div class=\"bd-hero-meta-item\"><span>Selection<\/span><strong>6 serums rated by BeautyDecoders<\/strong><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">On video<\/span><h2>No pure vitamin C: <em>scam or alternative<\/em> ?<\/h2><p class=\"bd-lead\">Some <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/\">vitamin C<\/a> do not contain pure vitamin C, but derivatives. Is this a scam? Not necessarily: derivatives have real advantages (stability, mildness, ease of association), even if their efficacy is generally inferior to that of L-ascorbic acid. Let's look at them family by family.<\/p><div class=\"bd-video-wrap\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/BenWeF74iKg\" title=\"Vitamin C derivatives - BeautyDecoded\" loading=\"lazy\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div><\/div><\/section><!-- ===== D\u00c9RIV\u00c9S AQUEUX ===== --><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">Water-soluble<\/span><h2>Derivatives <em>aqueous<\/em><\/h2><p class=\"bd-lead\">Their advantage: they are found in aqueous products, ideal for combination to oily skin. Disadvantage: their ability to penetrate the cutaneous barrier is questionable.<\/p><div class=\"bd-prob-grid\"><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">water-soluble<\/div><p>No published data on its antioxidant capacities, but in vitro studies suggest it may stimulate collagen, brighten skin in vivo and reduce imperfections. Present in The Ordinary serum (under reformulation) and Vichy's Hydra Mag C.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>Ascorbyl glucoside<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">water-soluble - recommended<\/div><p>One of the most interesting. Greater stability, so easier to formulate. Good in vitro penetration (a key point for a hydrophilic derivative), even if in vivo is lacking. Once absorbed, it converts to pure vitamin C: its benefits without its drawbacks.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>Sodium ascorbyl phosphate<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">water-soluble - recommended<\/div><p>Several studies have compared it to pure vitamin C, with promising results on wrinkles and pigmentation spots. It is found in Typology's radiance serum.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section><!-- ===== D\u00c9RIV\u00c9S LIPOPHILES ===== --><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">Oil-soluble<\/span><h2>Derivatives <em>lipophilic<\/em><\/h2><p class=\"bd-lead\">Their advantage over aqueous derivatives is that they penetrate the skin barrier more easily.<\/p><div class=\"bd-prob-grid\"><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">fat-soluble - recommended<\/div><p>Names to remember: SVR C20 Biotic, Caudalie Vinergetic C... Liposoluble and much more stable than pure vitamin C, it's an excellent choice for dry skin and hyperpigmentation such as melasma.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">fat-soluble<\/div><p>Very similar to the previous one - often the same ingredient in practice. More stable than pure vitamin C and can be mixed with retinol, but degrades under UV light. It is said to possess the three key properties (antioxidant, collagen, radiance); remarkable in vitro results, in vivo results yet to be fleshed out.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section><!-- ===== D\u00c9RIV\u00c9S MIXTES ===== --><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">Water- and oil-soluble<\/span><h2>Derivatives <em>with dual solubility<\/em><\/h2><div class=\"bd-prob-grid\"><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">amphiphile<\/div><p>Present in concentrated marques serums such as Novexpert and Nooance. Its dual solubility makes it a versatile derivative.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"bd-prob-card\"><h4>Ethyl ascorbic acid<\/h4><div class=\"bd-prob-inci\">amphiphile<\/div><p>An esterified derivative of ascorbic acid, present in a The Ordinary product at 15 % and in a Niod serum particularly effective against blemishes.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section><section class=\"bd-dark\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">To be avoided<\/span><h2>Ascorbyl palmitate, <em>the disappointing derivative<\/em><\/h2><p>Designed to solve vitamin C's stability problems while preserving its benefits, ascorbyl palmitate doesn't live up to its promise. Its stability is in fact similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (and therefore not very stable), and it is fat-soluble.<\/p><div class=\"bd-dark-quote\"><strong>Often there just for the label<\/strong><p>Most of the time, it's found at the very end of the formulation, where it serves little purpose other than to enable the brand to display \u00abvitamin C\u00bb on the label. Better to turn to the promising derivatives mentioned above.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/section><!-- ===== S\u00c9LECTION PRODUITS ===== --><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">The selection<\/span><h2>A selection of serums <em>to derivatives<\/em><\/h2><p class=\"bd-lead\">Here are several serums with vitamin C derivatives, ranked according to their solubility, with BeautyDecoded scores. All are milder and more stable than pure vitamin C. For more serums, see <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/\">vitamin C guide<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/best-serum\/\">best vitamin C serums<\/a>.<\/p><div class=\"bd-alert bd-alert-info\"><span class=\"bd-alert-icon\">\u26a0<\/span><div>The ratings and review excerpts come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. The Sensitivity Verdict applies the Dr David Rule: a sensitive skin score greater than or equal to 0 indicates a product suitable for sensitive skin.<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-phase-header\"><div class=\"bd-phase-num\">Group 01<\/div><h3 class=\"bd-phase-title\">Derivatives <em>water-soluble<\/em> - combination to oily skin<\/h3><\/div><!-- Produit 1 : Mim\u00e9tique --><div class=\"bd-product\"><div class=\"bd-product-top\"><div><span class=\"bd-product-cat\">Ascorbyl glucoside + niacinamide - Mimetic<\/span><h3>Mimetic Skin Revive (ascorbyl glucoside + niacinamide)<\/h3><div class=\"bd-product-meta\"><span class=\"bd-rating\"><span class=\"bd-stars\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span><span class=\"bd-score\">4,80\/5<\/span><span class=\"bd-count\">(5 reviews)<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/div><span class=\"bd-product-badge bd-badge-top\">Radiance without acid pH - even for rosacea<\/span><\/div><p>Serum combining ascorbyl glucoside (a stable, water-soluble derivative) and niacinamide, plus soothing oatmeal. The ideal combination for sensitive or reactive skin that wants the radiance of vitamin C without the acidic pH. Sensitive skin score <strong>0.0 - adapted<\/strong>. Moisturizing, plumping and well-tolerated even in cases of rosacea according to feedback; some reviews consider it a little expensive.<\/p><div class=\"bd-scores-label\">Scores BeautyDecoded<\/div><div class=\"bd-scores\"><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Dry skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Oily skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Normal to oily<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Sensitive skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">0<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Anti-aging<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">76,5<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Stains<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">66,3<\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-sv bd-sv-ok\"><strong>\u2713 Verdict sensitivity<\/strong> Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.0). Well tolerated, even for rosacea.<\/div><div class=\"bd-quotes-label\">User feedback (5 reviews - representative extracts)<\/div><div class=\"bd-quotes\"><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abVery moisturizing, gives radiance, no inflammatory reaction despite my rosacea.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abThe best serum ever: niacinamide and stabilized vitamin C, perfect for the morning.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abA few drops are all you need, it plumps up the skin and it's very good as an anti-dark spot.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abGood serum but not miraculous, let's be honest, and the price is high.\u00bb<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-verdict\"><strong>Verdict -<\/strong> Ascorbyl glucoside + niacinamide + oatmeal, the radiance of vitamin C without the acidic pH (adapted 0.0), even for rosacea. A few drops are enough; considered a little expensive. 4.80\/5 out of 5 reviews.<\/div><\/div><!-- Produit 2 : Typology --><div class=\"bd-product\"><div class=\"bd-product-top\"><div><span class=\"bd-product-cat\">Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 11% - Typology<\/span><h3>Typology Vitamin C 11% (sodium ascorbyl phosphate)<\/h3><div class=\"bd-product-meta\"><span class=\"bd-rating\"><span class=\"bd-stars\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u00bd<\/span><span class=\"bd-score\">4,75\/5<\/span><span class=\"bd-count\">(2 reviews - indicative rating)<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/div><span class=\"bd-product-badge bd-badge-mixed\">Wrinkles &amp; spots derivative - long-lasting results<\/span><\/div><p>Serum with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a water-soluble derivative studied for wrinkles and spots), in an aqueous, gel-like formula enriched with antioxidant silk tree bark extract. Good spot score (<strong>76,5<\/strong>). Sensitive skin score <strong>-1.0 - slight caution<\/strong>. Pleasant texture and long-lasting results according to feedback, with a practical pipette.<\/p><div class=\"bd-scores-label\">Scores BeautyDecoded<\/div><div class=\"bd-scores\"><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Dry skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">84<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Oily skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">84<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Normal to oily<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">84<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Sensitive skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">-1<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-low\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Anti-aging<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">34<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Stains<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">76,5<\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-sv bd-sv-caution\"><strong>\u26a0 Sensitivity verdict<\/strong> Slight caution (score: -1.0).<\/div><div class=\"bd-verdict\"><strong>Verdict -<\/strong> Sodium ascorbyl phosphate studied for wrinkles and spots (spots 76.5), gelled formula with silk tree bark. Slight caution (-1.0). Few comments (2 reviews): indicative rating, real change reported after several months. 4,75\/5.<\/div><\/div><!-- Produit 3 : TO Glucoside 12% --><div class=\"bd-product\"><div class=\"bd-product-top\"><div><span class=\"bd-product-cat\">Ascorbyl glucoside 12% - The Ordinary<\/span><h3>The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%<\/h3><div class=\"bd-product-meta\"><span class=\"bd-rating\"><span class=\"bd-stars\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span><span class=\"bd-score\">5,00\/5<\/span><span class=\"bd-count\">(1 review - indicative rating)<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/div><span class=\"bd-product-badge bd-badge-mixed\">Low price - gateway to vitamin C<\/span><\/div><p>Serum with ascorbyl glucoside (a stable, water-soluble derivative), which combines very well with niacinamide and is suitable for combination to oily skin (good score for oily to combination skin). <strong>91<\/strong>). Sensitive skin score <strong>0.0 - adapted<\/strong>. A good gateway to vitamin C for skin that cannot tolerate the pure form.<\/p><div class=\"bd-scores-label\">Scores BeautyDecoded<\/div><div class=\"bd-scores\"><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Dry skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">73,5<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Oily skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Normal to oily<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Sensitive skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">0<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Anti-aging<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">59,5<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Stains<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">78,2<\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-sv bd-sv-ok\"><strong>\u2713 Verdict sensitivity<\/strong> Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.0).<\/div><div class=\"bd-verdict\"><strong>Verdict -<\/strong> Ascorbyl glucoside 12 % water-soluble and stable (oily skin 91, spots 78.2, adapted 0.0), combines well with niacinamide. Gateway to vitamin C. Few comments (1 review): indicative rating, good value for money praised.<\/div><\/div><!-- Produit 4 : Aroma-Zone --><div class=\"bd-product\"><div class=\"bd-product-top\"><div><span class=\"bd-product-cat\">Vitamin C 10% + astaxanthin - Aroma-Zone<\/span><h3>Aroma-Zone Vitamin C 10% &amp; Astaxanthin<\/h3><div class=\"bd-product-meta\"><span class=\"bd-rating\"><span class=\"bd-stars\">\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span><span class=\"bd-score\">3,13\/5<\/span><span class=\"bd-count\">(38 reviews - solid base)<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/div><span class=\"bd-product-badge bd-badge-flop\">Gentle concentration - uneven effectiveness<\/span><\/div><p>French serum with 10 % of vitamin C and antioxidant astaxanthin, at a low price and gentle concentration. Sensitive skin score <strong>-0.5 - slight caution<\/strong>. Immediate healthy-glow effect for some; it's also the lowest-rated of the base, with several reviews not noting any marked effect, a reminder that at lower concentrations, efficacy depends very much on formulation and freshness.<\/p><div class=\"bd-scores-label\">Scores BeautyDecoded<\/div><div class=\"bd-scores\"><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Dry skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">84<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Oily skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">84<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Normal to oily<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">84<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Sensitive skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">-0,5<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Anti-aging<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">51<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Stains<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">59,5<\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-sv bd-sv-caution\"><strong>\u26a0 Sensitivity verdict<\/strong> Slight caution (score: -0.5). One of the mildest.<\/div><div class=\"bd-quotes-label\">User feedback (38 reviews - representative extracts)<\/div><div class=\"bd-quotes\"><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abInstant healthy-glow effect, a little boost in the morning on my sleepy skin.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abSatisfied, I took it for my facial spots and am buying it again.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abThe serum is okay but had no particular effect on me.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abNo effect on my skin, and a little fluffy on application.\u00bb<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-verdict\"><strong>Verdict -<\/strong> Vitamin C 10 % + astaxanthin at mild concentration (-0.5, one of the mildest). But the lowest rated of the base: at this concentration, efficacy depends on formulation and freshness. 3.13\/5 out of 38 reviews.<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-phase-header\"><div class=\"bd-phase-num\">Group 02<\/div><h3 class=\"bd-phase-title\">Derivatives <em>lipophilic<\/em> - normal to dry skin<\/h3><\/div><!-- Produit 5 : TO T\u00e9traiso 20% --><div class=\"bd-product\"><div class=\"bd-product-top\"><div><span class=\"bd-product-cat\">Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 20% - The Ordinary<\/span><h3>The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20%<\/h3><div class=\"bd-product-meta\"><span class=\"bd-rating\"><span class=\"bd-stars\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span><span class=\"bd-score\">5,00\/5<\/span><span class=\"bd-count\">(2 reviews - indicative rating)<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/div><span class=\"bd-product-badge bd-badge-top\">Stable oil derivative - dry skin &amp; spots<\/span><\/div><p>Serum with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (a stable, liposoluble derivative) in an oil base, particularly suited to dry skin and spots such as melasma. Sensitive skin score <strong>0.0 - adapted<\/strong>, a gentle alternative to pure vitamin C. Oily texture for non-oily skin (oily skin score 0).<\/p><div class=\"bd-scores-label\">Scores BeautyDecoded<\/div><div class=\"bd-scores\"><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Dry skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-low\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Oily skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">0<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Normal to dry<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Sensitive skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">0<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Anti-aging<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">54,4<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Stains<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">76,5<\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-sv bd-sv-ok\"><strong>\u2713 Verdict sensitivity<\/strong> Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.0). Oily texture: non-oily skin.<\/div><div class=\"bd-verdict\"><strong>Verdict -<\/strong> Fat-soluble, stable ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 20 % (stain 76.5, adapted 0.0), ideal for dry skin and melasma. Oily texture for non-oily skin. Few comments (2 reviews): indicative rating, described as very gentle and effective on blemishes.<\/div><\/div><!-- Produit 6 : Av\u00e8ne --><div class=\"bd-product\"><div class=\"bd-product-top\"><div><span class=\"bd-product-cat\">Vitamin C Derivative + Niacinamide - Avene<\/span><h3>Avene Vitamin C Radiance Serum<\/h3><div class=\"bd-product-meta\"><span class=\"bd-rating\"><span class=\"bd-stars\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u00bd<\/span><span class=\"bd-score\">3,44\/5<\/span><span class=\"bd-count\">(9 reviews)<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/div><span class=\"bd-product-badge bd-badge-mixed\">Soft base in pharmacies - mixed reviews<\/span><\/div><p>Parapharmacy radiance serum combining a vitamin C derivative and niacinamide, in a gentle base by Av\u00e8ne, easily found in pharmacies. Good anti-aging score (<strong>81,6<\/strong>). Sensitive skin score <strong>-0.25 - slight caution<\/strong>, It's well tolerated, even by skins that can't tolerate pure vitamin C. Opinions are divided: some skins love it, others find it unspectacular.<\/p><div class=\"bd-scores-label\">Scores BeautyDecoded<\/div><div class=\"bd-scores\"><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Dry skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Oily skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">56<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Normal to dry<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">91<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-mid\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Sensitive skin<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">-0,25<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Anti-aging<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">81,6<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item bd-high\"><div class=\"bd-score-item-label\">Stains<\/div><div class=\"bd-score-item-value\">76,5<\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-sv bd-sv-caution\"><strong>\u26a0 Sensitivity verdict<\/strong> Slight caution (score: -0.25). Well tolerated, even on skin that cannot tolerate pure vitamin C.<\/div><div class=\"bd-quotes-label\">User feedback (9 reviews - representative extracts)<\/div><div class=\"bd-quotes\"><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abI have dry skin and can't stand vitamin C, but this derivative goes down really well.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abVery effective, I can't do without it, be careful in case of psoriasis.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abHydrates well and not sticky, but I didn't see anything extraordinary on my skin.\u00bb<\/div><div class=\"bd-quote\"><span class=\"bd-quote-rating\">\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/span>\u00abI use it morning and night, quite satisfied with this product.\u00bb<\/div><\/div><div class=\"bd-verdict\"><strong>Verdict -<\/strong> Vitamin C derivative + niacinamide in Avene mild base, available in pharmacies (anti-aging 81.6). Slight caution (-0.25), well tolerated even on skin intolerant to pure vitamin C. Opinions divided on effectiveness. 3.44\/5 out of 9 reviews.<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section><!-- ===== CTA APP (bd-final standard) ===== --><section class=\"bd-final\" style=\"padding-top:48px !important;margin-top:0 !important\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><div class=\"bd-final-inner\"><div class=\"bd-section-label\">Further information<\/div><h2>Find the right derivative on <em>an INCI list<\/em>.<\/h2><p>The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.<\/p><div class=\"bd-cta-wrap\" style=\"justify-content: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/beautydecoded.go.link\/88eZ2\" class=\"bd-cta\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Discover BeautyDecoded<\/a><\/div><div class=\"bd-cta-meta\" style=\"margin-top: 16px;\">Application available on iOS and Android<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">Frequently asked questions<\/span><h2>Your questions about <em>derivatives<\/em><\/h2><div class=\"bd-faq-list\"><details class=\"bd-faq-item\"><summary>Are vitamin C derivatives effective?<\/summary><div class=\"bd-faq-answer\">Yes, but generally less than pure vitamin C. Their evidence is based mainly on in vitro studies, the idea being that they convert to vitamin C in the skin. They remain a good compromise for those who cannot tolerate pure vitamin C, thanks to their stability and mildness.<\/div><\/details><details class=\"bd-faq-item\"><summary>What's the best vitamin C derivative?<\/summary><div class=\"bd-faq-answer\">There's no single winner. Ascorbyl glucoside and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (water-soluble) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (fat-soluble) are among the most promising. The choice depends on your skin type: an aqueous derivative for combination to oily skin, an oily derivative for dry skin.<\/div><\/details><details class=\"bd-faq-item\"><summary>Which derivative to avoid?<\/summary><div class=\"bd-faq-answer\">Ascorbyl palmitate is the least interesting: not very stable and often present in symbolic quantities, mainly to display \u00abvitamin C\u00bb on the packaging. If this is the only form of vitamin C in a product, it's best to pass.<\/div><\/details><details class=\"bd-faq-item\"><summary>Can a derivative be combined with retinol?<\/summary><div class=\"bd-faq-answer\">Yes, that's even an advantage of derivatives: unlike pure vitamin C, which requires a low pH that's incompatible with retinol, some derivatives like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate mix well with retinol. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/retinol\/\">retinol<\/a>. They are also found in certain skincare products combining retinol and vitamin C.<\/div><\/details><\/div><\/div><\/section><section class=\"bd-section\"><div class=\"bd-wrap\"><span class=\"bd-section-label\">Further information<\/span><h2>Others <em>associated guides<\/em><\/h2><div class=\"bd-hub-grid\"><a class=\"bd-hub-card\" href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/\"><span class=\"bd-hub-card-tag\">Ingredient<\/span><h3>The complete guide to vitamin C<\/h3><span class=\"bd-hub-card-arrow\">Read the guide \u2192<\/span><\/a><a class=\"bd-hub-card\" href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/best-serum\/\"><span class=\"bd-hub-card-tag\">Comparison<\/span><h3>The best vitamin C serums<\/h3><span class=\"bd-hub-card-arrow\">Read the guide \u2192<\/span><\/a><a class=\"bd-hub-card\" href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/vitamin-c\/serum-vitaminec-conseils\/\"><span class=\"bd-hub-card-tag\">Advice<\/span><h3>5 tips for applying vitamin C<\/h3><span class=\"bd-hub-card-arrow\">Read the guide \u2192<\/span><\/a><a class=\"bd-hub-card\" href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/niacinamide\/\"><span class=\"bd-hub-card-tag\">Ingredient<\/span><h3>Niacinamide<\/h3><span class=\"bd-hub-card-arrow\">Read the guide \u2192<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/section><div class=\"bd-sig\"><strong>Dr Sylvain David<\/strong><span>Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded<\/span><\/div><div class=\"bd-disclaimer\"><p>Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. The efficacy of vitamin C derivatives is largely based on in vitro data, and is generally inferior to that of pure L-ascorbic acid. In case of skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test prior to first use is recommended.<\/p><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Skincare Guide \u00b7 Vitamin C: Vitamin C derivatives\u2014which ones are effective, according to a doctor and BeautyDecodeurs\u2019 analyses. Vitamin C derivatives are more stable and gentler alternatives to pure vitamin C, making them ideal for sensitive skin. The most promising ones are ascorbyl glucoside, sodium\u2026<\/p>","protected":false},"author":120,"featured_media":0,"parent":331,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"enable","_kad_post_title":"hide","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-8312","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"acf":[],"taxonomy_info":[],"featured_image_src_large":false,"author_info":{"display_name":"Sylvain David","author_link":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/author\/beautydecoded\/"},"comment_info":0,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/8312","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/120"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8312"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/8312\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":74572,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/8312\/revisions\/74572"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/331"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8312"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}