{"id":74895,"date":"2026-08-28T18:20:00","date_gmt":"2026-08-28T16:20:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/?p=74895"},"modified":"2026-08-28T14:38:50","modified_gmt":"2026-08-28T12:38:50","slug":"is-this-azelaic-acid-a-scam-lets-analyze-the-formula-and-the-controversy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/est-ce-que-cet-acide-azelaique-est-un-scam-anua-janalyse-la-formule-et-la-polemique\/","title":{"rendered":"Is this azelaic acid an \u00abAnua\u00bb scam? I\u2019m analyzing the formula and the controversy"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" src=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua2.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-74899\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua2.webp 800w, https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua2-300x200.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua2-768x512.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua2-18x12.webp 18w, https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua2-600x400.webp 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Where does the controversy come from?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The allegation: Following a reformulation, the serum\u2019s pH is said to have increased (independent chemists report a pH close to 6), causing the azelaic acid to change to its&nbsp;<strong>saline form (ionized)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The fact is undisputed: yes, azelaic acid is present there primarily in its ionized form. The real question lies elsewhere:&nbsp;<strong>Does that make it ineffective?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\ud83d\udccc&nbsp;<strong>See also:<\/strong>&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/cerave-is-entering-the-peptide-market-with-its-skin-renewing-cream-heres-my-take-on-it\/\">CeraVe is joining the peptide trend with its Skin Renewing Cream\u2014here's my take on it<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Why This Is a False Accusation<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Azelaic acid is a unique molecule: a&nbsp;<strong>diprotic dicarboxylic acid<\/strong>, which loses its protons at two distinct pH levels (around 4.5 and then 5.3). It is this solubilization at higher pH that makes it possible to develop formulations in&nbsp;<strong>a clear, fluid, liquid serum<\/strong>. (Instead of the <strong>creams and grainy emulsions<\/strong>)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The accusers\u00ab reasoning assumes that the \u00bbfree acid value\u201d (the non-ionized portion) alone determines effectiveness. This is incorrect: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/azelaic-acid\/\" data-type=\"page\" data-id=\"2047\">azelaic acid<\/a> acts&nbsp;<strong>especially on the surface of the skin<\/strong>, as an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory agent. pH is important for formulation, skin tolerance, and penetration, but a modified pH does not render the product ineffective.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The real twist: a higher pH can be an advantage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There are two types available on the market:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>a shape&nbsp;<strong>suspended<\/strong>&nbsp;(grainy emulsion, low pH), where the molecule floats without dissolving, like a snow globe. (ACM, Nooance, Teen Derm Isispharma)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>a shape&nbsp;<strong>solubilized<\/strong>&nbsp;(liquid serum, higher pH), where it is completely dissolved. (Anua)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>In theory, the non-ionized form (non-liquid, in suspension) penetrates the skin barrier more effectively, but the solubilized form (liquid, dissolved) makes many more molecules available for penetration.<\/strong> Who wins?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L'<strong>baseline study<\/strong>&nbsp;cited in the debate compared,&nbsp;<em>in vitro<\/em>, two formulations of&nbsp;<strong>pH 3.9<\/strong>&nbsp;(suspended) and&nbsp;<strong>pH 4.9<\/strong>(dissolved):<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>skin retention&nbsp;<strong>higher<\/strong>&nbsp;at a pH of 4.9; ;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>ionized species flux&nbsp;<strong>about 5 times greater<\/strong>&nbsp;at pH 4.9 (128.4 vs. 27.7 \u03bcg\/cm\u00b2\/h); ;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ref.:<\/strong>&nbsp;Li N, Wu X, Jia W, et al.&nbsp;<em>Effect of Ionization and Carrier on Skin Absorption and Penetration of Azelaic Acid.<\/em>&nbsp;Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2012;38(8):985-994.&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/22111946\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">PubMed 22111946<\/a><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Explanation by Dr. David<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Imagine sugar in a glass of water.<\/strong>&nbsp;As long as it remains in the form of granules at the bottom of the glass, some of the sugar is not actually available in the liquid. When it is completely dissolved, all the molecules are dispersed and available.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It's kind of the same thing with azelaic acid. In some&nbsp;<strong>creams or emulsions<\/strong>, some of the azelaic acid remains in the form of tiny suspended particles: it must first dissolve before it can penetrate the skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In a&nbsp;<strong>liquid serum with a higher pH<\/strong>, azelaic acid can be dissolved much more effectively. Admittedly, it then exists primarily in a so-called \u00abionized\u00bb form, which theoretically crosses the skin barrier less easily.&nbsp;<strong>But there are many more molecules immediately available to try to pass through it.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">That is what the study shows:&nbsp;<strong>Having a theoretically very insightful approach isn't much use if a large part of the\u2019<a href=\"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/azelaic-acid\/best-serum\/\" data-type=\"page\" data-id=\"5394\">azelaic acid<\/a> remains in the form of undissolved particles.<\/strong>&nbsp;Conversely, a well-dissolved liquid form can make more azelaic acid available to the skin, even if it is more ionized.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>In summary: An emulsion may contain a form that penetrates easily but must first dissolve. A liquid serum may contain a form that penetrates less easily, but many more of its molecules are already dissolved and available.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Limits to Keep in Mind<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This study doesn't tell the whole story: it is&nbsp;<strong>in vitro, on mouse skin<\/strong>, compare&nbsp;<strong>pH 3.9 vs. 4.9<\/strong>&nbsp;(not ~6, which is the actual pH of the serum), and&nbsp;<strong>does not test any brands<\/strong>&nbsp;in question. Without&nbsp;<strong>comparative clinical studies<\/strong>&nbsp;There is no direct evidence, so it is impossible to reach a definitive conclusion, but there is also no evidence to suggest that the product is less effective because of its pH.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Keep an eye on: derivatives<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Some serums claim to contain azelaic acid but actually contain&nbsp;<strong>potassium azeloyl diglycinate (PAD)<\/strong>&nbsp;a modified derivative, about which there is less information available, and for which there is no guarantee that it will exactly replicate the effects of azelaic acid. Such as the A Pad from the Geek &amp; Gorgeous brand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The essentials<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The accusation of a \u00abscam\u00bb is based on a&nbsp;<strong>chemical abbreviation<\/strong>. The available data even show that better&nbsp;<strong>solubilization<\/strong>&nbsp;Azelaic acid may compensate for its lower proportion in the non-ionized form and promote its penetration into the skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But be careful not to go to the other extreme: this study does not prove that a serum with a pH of 6 is&nbsp;<em>more<\/em>&nbsp;more effective than a formula with a pH of 4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The most reasonable conclusion is therefore the simplest one:&nbsp;<strong>Measuring the pH of a serum is not enough to determine its effectiveness<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">You, too, can analyze your products<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">You don't have to be a chemist to understand what's in your skincare products.&nbsp;<strong>Simply scan your product with Beautydecoded<\/strong>&nbsp;: The app analyzes the product's composition and helps you understand its ingredients and determine whether it's right for your skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Search for \u00abBeautydecoded\u00bb on the App Store or Google Play and scan your first product.<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Where does the controversy come from? The accusation: following a reformulation, the serum\u2019s pH is said to have increased (independent chemists report a pH close to 6), causing azelaic acid to shift to its saline (ionized) form. This fact is not disputed: yes, azelaic acid is present primarily in its ionized form. The real issue lies elsewhere\u2026<\/p>","protected":false},"author":120,"featured_media":74896,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-74895","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-actualites"],"acf":[],"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1,"label":"Actualites"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/anua-1024x683.jpg",1024,683,true],"author_info":{"display_name":"Sylvain David","author_link":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/author\/beautydecoded\/"},"comment_info":2,"category_info":[{"term_id":1,"name":"Actualites","slug":"actualites","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":1,"taxonomy":"category","description":"","parent":0,"count":332,"filter":"raw","cat_ID":1,"category_count":332,"category_description":"","cat_name":"Actualites","category_nicename":"actualites","category_parent":0}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74895","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/120"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=74895"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74895\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":74900,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74895\/revisions\/74900"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/74896"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=74895"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=74895"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=74895"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}