{"id":75049,"date":"2026-10-08T11:35:50","date_gmt":"2026-10-08T09:35:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/?p=75049"},"modified":"2026-10-08T11:35:52","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T09:35:52","slug":"roc-hydra-hyaluronic-i-was-expecting-a-water-based-serum-not-silicones","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.beautydecoded.com\/en\/roc-hydra-hyaluronic-je-mattendais-un-serum-aqueux-pas-des-silicones\/","title":{"rendered":"RoC Hydra+ Hyaluronic: I was expecting a water-based serum, not silicones"},"content":{"rendered":"
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RoC's Intense Hydra+ Hyaluronic Plumping Serum (\u20ac36.90 for 30 ml) is marketed as a treatment \u00abinspired by dermal fillers,\u00bb with \u00ab7 concentrated forms of\u2019hyaluronic acid<\/a> \u00bb and \u00abPro-Collagen amino acids.\u00bb The brand cites instrumental measurements taken on 34 people, 100 % of whom reportedly observed visibly plumped-up wrinkles within a few minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\ud83d\udccc See also:<\/strong> SVR is removing salicylic acid from its Sebiaclear Active Gel: Is this a good or bad idea?<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When you read \u00abserum\u00bb and \u00abhyaluronic acid,\u00bb you might imagine a watery liquid with humectants at the top of the ingredient list. While water is indeed the first ingredient, the rest of the list tells a different story.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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What the INCI Says<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Between the 2nd and 13th positions, there is only one humectant: butylene glycol, listed in the 3rd position. Everything else consists of emollients, fatty alcohols, and silicones<\/a>. Phenyl Trimethicone and Dimethicone are listed in 4th and 5th place, ahead of glycerin (14th) and Sodium Hyaluronate (15th). Shea butter is 11th. Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, glyceryl stearates, and stearic acid are typical texturizing agents found in an emulsion: the formulation resembles that of a light cream more than that of an aqueous serum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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More fat than water-based ingredients\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Two clarifications, just to be clear. Isododecane, listed as the second ingredient, is a volatile solvent that evaporates after application: the final texture is therefore lighter than the ingredient list might suggest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Verdict<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Hydra+ Hyaluronic by RoC<\/a> In my opinion, it's a good moisturizer that softens and plumps the skin, but it's not the water-based serum that its name and marketing claims might lead you to believe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to use it.<\/strong> Given its formula, which is rich in silicones and emollients, this product primarily acts as a sealant: it smooths the skin and reduces water loss. To get the most out of it, I would apply it to skin that\u2019s already well-hydrated, after using a lotion or serum rich in humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol). The moisture applied beforehand would then be locked in by the silicones and emollients, which compensates for the fact that its humectant content remains modest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In terms of anti-aging, the formula is fairly basic: ceramides, squalane, and antioxidants support the skin barrier and protect the skin, but it does not contain any active ingredients with well-documented efficacy against wrinkles (retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide). The plumping effect comes mainly from hydration and surface smoothing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is something that the INCI cannot confirm.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n