Enlarged pores: what your skin is trying to tell you
They alter the uniformity of the complexion, resist poorly suited skincare products, and can promote the appearance of blackheads: enlarged pores are often misunderstood and therefore poorly treated. However, they are not inevitable. To understand how to limit their appearance, we must first understand their role, how they work, and why they become more visible.
What exactly are pores?
Pores are microscopic openings on the surface of the skin. There are two main categories:
- Sebaceous pores : connected to the sebaceous glands, they serve to evacuate sebum, an oily substance essential for skin protection.
- Sweat pores : attached to the sweat glands, they allow sweat to be released.
In everyday language, «enlarged pores» generally refers to ostia, i.e., the opening of the sebaceous pores.
Why do some pores become enlarged?
1. Biological and genetic factors
- Excessive sebum production (hyperseborrhea) : excess sebum gradually enlarges the pores to facilitate its removal.
- Skin aging : the skin loses collagen and elasticity, causing sagging around the pores.
- Hormonal fluctuations : Puberty, pregnancy, premenstrual syndrome, or menopause can stimulate the sebaceous glands.
- Genetic predisposition Some people naturally have oilier skin and more visible pores.
- Sex : Men have more sebaceous glands on average, which makes their pores more prone to enlargement.
2. Environmental and behavioral factors
- Prolonged sun exposure : UV rays thicken the stratum corneum, clog pores, and stimulate sebum production.
- Use of comedogenic products : certain cosmetic formulations can promote pore blockage (coconut oil, lanolin, etc.).
- Poor hygiene Insufficient or aggressive cleansing worsens pore blockage.
- Unbalanced diet and tobacco : these factors influence the overall condition of the skin and can increase local inflammation.
A breeding ground for blackheads
A pore enlarges when it becomes clogged with a mixture of sebum, dead cells, impurities, and pollution. This blockage can oxidize on contact with air, forming blackheads (open comedones). Over time, the pore structure distends and becomes visible, giving the effect of «tangerine peel».
How can you prevent and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores?
1. Adopt a rigorous skincare routine
- Gentle yet thorough cleaning, morning and evening, with gentle cleansing agents, essential for limiting the accumulation of sebum and keratin.
- Regular chemical exfoliation : using exfoliating acids such as AHAs (glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids) or BHAs (salicylic acid) to unclog pores without causing irritation.
- Appropriate hydration : Well-hydrated skin produces less sebum (use of hyaluronic acid).
- Weekly purifying masks : Clay or activated charcoal masks help unclog pores and reduce shine.
- Daily sun protection : sun protection limits premature skin aging and UV-induced sebum overproduction.
2. Choose suitable assets
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3) : strengthens the skin barrier and visibly reduces pore size.
- Zinc : regulates sebum production and soothes inflammation.
- Azelaic acid : effective against excess sebum and bacteria involved in blemishes.
What you should definitely not do
- Over-exfoliating : this can disrupt the skin barrier and increase sebum production.
- Skip makeup removal : promotes the accumulation of impurities.
- Using water that is too hot or too cold : irritates the skin.
- Apply multiple layers of powder makeup : this further obstructs the ostia.
- Excess sugar and fatty foods: promote inflammation and sebum production.
- Ignoring sun protection: a key factor in collagen degradation.
Are there any effective cosmetic treatments?
Professional care
- Hydrafacial : deep cleaning and removal of impurities.
- Fractional laser : stimulates collagen and regulates sebum production.
- Chemical peels : intense keratolytic action to improve skin texture.
