Facial care

What is my skin type - the right test and care according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.

To find out your skin type, do the handkerchief test: clean your face, wait 30 minutes without applying anything, then dab on a handkerchief. No traces and tightness = dry skin; traces all over the face = oily skin; traces only on the T-zone = combination skin; tiny traces without discomfort = normal skin. Skin type is genetic, and should be distinguished from skin condition (dehydrated, sensitized), which is temporary.

MethodThe handkerchief test, in 30 minutes
DistinctionType (genetic) vs. state (temporary)
Guides5 detailed skin profiles

The handkerchief test to know your skin

Before taking care of the skin on your face, you need to make a diagnosis: know your skin type. It seems obvious, but many people think they have oily skin when they actually have combination skin, or dry skin when they're simply dehydrated. A practical and reliable exercise in just a few minutes: cleanse and dry your skin, wait half an hour without applying any product, then observe and apply a handkerchief.

01

Dry skin

The skin feels tight, looks dehydrated, and the handkerchief shows no trace.

02

Normal skin

No tugging, and the handkerchief shows tiny traces of oil.

03

Combination skin

The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) shines and leaves traces, while cheeks and temples remain normal.

04

Oily skin

The whole face shines, with a greasy feel, and the handkerchief shows traces all over.

Skin type or skin condition?

Type is genetic, condition is temporary

Skin type (dry, normal, combination, oily) is genetically determined and classified according to oil production. Skin condition (damaged, dehydrated, irritated, sensitized) is temporary and due to external factors. We can have oily and dehydrated skin at the same time, for example.

Two types of lipids keep the skin in good condition: intercellular lipids (between the corneocytes) and sebum (produced by the sebaceous glands).

Dry, oily or mixed

Lack of fat

Dry skin

It no longer fulfills its role as a barrier: not enough fat is absorbed by the epidermis, resulting in moisture loss and dryness. Dull, fine-grained appearance, fine dehydration lines, tightness and discomfort. Avoid: aggressive cleansing, unsuitable creams, lack of moisturizing serum. Caring for dry skin →

Excess sebum

Oily skin

It does its job «too well»: surface saturated with sebum. Dilated pores, imperfections, acne-prone, thick, shiny skin. Avoid: overly aggressive cleansers, overly rich creams, dietary insulin peaks. Caring for oily skin →

Both at once

Normal to combination skin

It combines the two profiles by zone: the T-zone produces too much sebum (shine, blackheads, dilated pores), while the cheeks are normal to dry. The key: «zoning», adapting skincare to the zones. Treat your combination skin →

Sensitive skin and mature skin

Often sensitized

Sensitive skin

It reddens as soon as products are applied, but also under hard water or the sun. Often sensitized by pollution, sun, tobacco and, above all, unsuitable products. The rule: limit your routine to the strict minimum and look for soothing ingredients. To avoid: untested essential oils, products with too many ingredients, irritating make-up. Treat your sensitive skin →

As we age

Mature skin

With age, the regeneration cycle lengthens, skin becomes thinner, wrinkles and sagging appear, and dryness sets in. All mature skin is different (genetics and routine over the years). Routines must take this into account, particularly with active ingredients that support collagen. Treating mature skin →

Finding the right care for your skin type.

The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.

Application available on iOS and Android

Your questions about skin types

How can I tell if my skin is dry or dehydrated?
Dry skin is a (genetic) type that permanently lacks oil. Dehydration is a temporary condition (lack of water) that can affect all skin types, including oily skin. Oily skin that feels tight is generally dehydrated, not dry.
Can my skin type change over time?
Skin type is genetic, but it evolves with age: oily skin at 20 often becomes more normal or dry as we age, as sebum production diminishes. Hormones (pregnancy, menopause) and climate also influence skin type.
Is sensitive skin a skin type?
Not really: it's more a condition. Skin of any type can become sensitive or sensitized. So you can have oily, sensitive skin, or dry, sensitive skin. Taking care of it involves a minimalist, soothing routine.

For go further

  • Roberts WE. Skin type classification systems old and new. Dermatol Clin. 2009;27(4):529-533.
  • Endly DC, Miller RA. Oily skin: a review of treatment options. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(8):49-55.
  • Moniaga CS, Tominaga M, Takamori K. Mechanisms and Management of Itch in Dry Skin. Acta Derm Venereol. 2020;100(2).
Dr Sylvain DavidPlastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded

Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The handkerchief test is an orientation method, not a medical diagnosis. Skin type (genetic) is distinct from skin condition (temporary): the same type can be dehydrated or sensitized, depending on the circumstances. In the case of persistent reactive skin, acne or skin pathology, dermatological advice is recommended.