Hormonal acne: what's hidden in your diet, your hormones, and your beauty products!
Why do certain foods trigger breakouts while others seem harmless? Why do certain skincare routines aggravate lesions despite apparent good hygiene? Hormonal acne, although mistakenly associated with adolescence, affects a significant proportion of adults, particularly women. It reflects an internal imbalance, often amplified by inappropriate dietary and cosmetic choices. Here is an in-depth exploration of the causes, mechanisms, and effective courses of action.
1. Hormonal acne: understanding how the body works
A hormone-driven inflammatory process
Hormonal acne is a specific form of acne influenced by fluctuations in androgens (such as testosterone). These hormones stimulate sebum production and disrupt the balance of the pilosebaceous follicle. The latter is then subject to three key phenomena:
- Hyperseborrhea (excess sebum)
- Hyperkeratinization (clogged pores)
- Bacterial proliferation (Cutibacterium acnes)
Periods of risk
- Puberty: intense stimulation of the sebaceous glands
- Menstrual cycle: decrease in estrogen, relative peak in androgens
- Pregnancy: changes in progesterone and estrogen levels
- Menopause: hormonal decline, androgen dominance
Areas commonly affected include the lower face, jaw, back, and chest.
2. Diet and acne: proven biological links
The effect of IGF-1 and the glycemic index
A diet with a high glycemic index promotes an increase in blood sugar levels, followed by insulin. Insulin in turn stimulates the production of IGF-1 (Insulin-like Growth Factor 1), which leads to excess sebum production and cell proliferation.
Foods that promote acne:
- White bread, refined grains, sweets
- Sugary drinks, industrial fruit juices
- Dairy products rich in hormones
- Meats rich in leucine
3. Anti-inflammatory nutrition: the role of protective nutrients
Low glycemic index foods : Promote glycemic stability and limit IGF-1 activation:
- Green vegetables, legumes
- Whole unprocessed fruits
- Whole grains
Omega-3 fatty acids : modulate inflammation and reduce IGF-1:
- Fatty fish: salmon, sardines, mackerel
- Flax seeds, walnuts, rapeseed oil
Zinc : Trace element with anti-androgenic and antibacterial effects:
- Oysters, lentils, eggs, pumpkin seeds
Alternatives to dairy products : Plant-based beverages with no added sugar:
- Oat milk, soy milk, almond milk enriched with calcium
4. Cosmetics and makeup: a hidden source of aggravation
Recommended precautions
- Avoid occlusive vegetable oils (coconut, avocado), mineral oils (paraffin), and silicones.
- Use Certified «non-comedogenic» skincare products. Comedogenicity index: Scale from 0 (non-comedogenic) to 5 (highly comedogenic). From 3 onwards, there is a significant risk of blockage, especially on acne-prone skin.
- Clean the paintbrushes every week
- Remove makeup systematically
- Give preference to alcohol-free and fragrance-free formulations
5. Skin routine: hygiene, care, and protection
Skincare tailored to acne-prone skin
- Gentle cleansing in the morning (sulfate-free)
- Complete makeup removal every evening (double cleansing)
- Non-greasy hydration (hyaluronic acid, zinc, niacinamide)
- Non-comedogenic mineral sunscreen
Avoid certain aggravating actions
- Do not touch the lesions.
- Limit friction (helmets, headbands)
- Regularly clean textiles that come into contact with the face.
6. Effective dermatological active ingredients
Glycolic acid
- Exfoliates dead cells (keratolytic action)
- Reduces pore blockage
- Regulates sebum production
- Effective from 5 % in progressive use
Vitamin C
- Powerful antioxidant
- Inhibits inflammatory cytokines
- Accelerates healing and reduces post-acne spots
