Acne, redness, blemishes: the miracle ingredient your skin has been waiting for!
Discover azelaic acid, a little-known but extremely effective ingredient that is revolutionizing skin care. Initially used to treat acne, this natural acid has unexpected benefits for combating rosacea, redness, and hyperpigmentation. But how does it work on these skin problems? What are its side effects? And how can you incorporate it into your beauty routine?
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. Although naturally occurring, the acid used in cosmetics is generally synthetic to ensure greater stability and effectiveness. This ingredient is distinguished by its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it an ideal choice for many skin types, especially those prone to acne and redness.
Azelaic acid for acne: a multifunctional treatment
Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties : Azelaic acid is known for its ability to target the bacteria responsible for acne, including Cutibacterium acnes. By reducing the proliferation of these microorganisms, it prevents new breakouts from occurring. In addition, its anti-inflammatory properties help to soothe redness and reduce inflammation associated with pimples.
Regulation of sebum production : Azelaic acid is also effective in regulating sebum production, helping to limit the appearance of clogged pores and blackheads. It works by inhibiting the enzyme 5α-reductase, which is responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, a molecule involved in sebum overproduction.
Combats redness and rosacea: a soothing active ingredient
Anti-inflammatory effect on rosacea Azelaic acid is one of the most effective topical treatments for reducing the symptoms of rosacea. By reducing the skin's inflammatory responses, it helps to reduce redness and inflammatory lesions such as papules and pustules.
Improved skin texture and radiance This acid gently exfoliates the skin, promoting cell renewal without irritation, which is ideal for sensitive skin prone to rosacea. It helps reduce pore size and improve skin tone evenness.
An ally against hyperpigmentation: how does it work?
Inhibition of melanin production: Azelaic acid interferes with the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production. By limiting this production, it helps to fade pigment spots, whether they are melasma, lentigo, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Selectivity of target melanocytes One of the major advantages of azelaic acid is its ability to target only hyperactive melanocytes without affecting healthy cells. This allows for precise and effective treatment of dark spots without the risk of hypopigmentation.
Azelic acid and sun exposure: what precautions should be taken?
Unlike other acids such as AHAs, azelaic acid is not considered photosensitizing. It can therefore be used during the day without an increased risk of sunburn. However, it is still recommended to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect the skin from UV damage.
Side effects and precautions for use
Potential adverse effects Although azelaic acid is generally well tolerated, it may cause mild irritation, redness, or dryness of the skin, especially during the first few applications. These effects are often temporary and disappear with regular use.
Contraindications It is not recommended to use products containing azelaic acid if you are hypersensitive to any of the ingredients in the formulation. Combining it with other acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactic acid may cause over-exfoliation. Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes, and perform a skin test before first use.
How can you incorporate azelaic acid into your skincare routine?
Azelaic acid can be applied daily, morning and evening, to clean, dry skin. It is often found in serums and creams in concentrations ranging from 10% in cosmetics to 20% in medicinal treatments. To maximize its effects, complete your routine with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.
