Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: The "Natural" Scam? The Scientific Truth

Woman Applying Skincare Serum for Healthy and Radiant Skin — Credit envato

By Sylvain (Beauty Decoded) Reading time: 8 minutes

Bakuchiol is everywhere. Instagram is full of posts saying, «Finally, a natural alternative to retinol!» marques is launching more and more products. Influencers are calling it a miracle.

But when you scratch beneath the marketing veneer, the scientific reality is much more nuanced.

As a plastic surgeon turned ingredient analyst, I wanted to understand. I combed through the published studies on bakuchiol (spoiler alert: there are fewer than you might think). And I discovered a science drama fascinating that no one tells you about.

Is it a revolution or a marketing ploy? Here's the truth.

1. First, Retinol (The «Gold Standard»)

To understand the challenger, you have to understand the champion. Retinol is part of the family of retinoids (vitamin A derivatives). It is the most well-documented molecule in the history of dermatology (50 years of research).

How does it work? To be effective, retinol must be converted by the skin. Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic acid (the active form)

Once converted, it connects to receptors in your cells (like a key in a lock) and instructs:

Massive collagen production.
Accelerated cell renewal.
Thickening of the dermis.

The price to pay? Efficiency comes at a cost: irritation, redness, peeling («purging»), dryness. This is where bakuchiol comes in with its magical promise: «The same results, without the side effects.»

2. Bakuchiol: What is it really?

It is an extract from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi), a plant used in Ayurvedic medicine.

Molecular shock: Bakuchiol is not NOT a retinoid.

It doesn't look like vitamin A.
It does not convert to retinoic acid.

So why does everyone compare them?

The study that started it all (The «Drama»)

It all started with a 2019 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal et al.).

The pitch: 44 people, 12 weeks. Bakuchiol vs. Retinol. The published result: Both groups saw a similar reduction in wrinkles, but the Bakuchiol group did not have no irritation.

The media ran headlines such as: «The end of retinol».

But here's what they forgot to tell you (the fine print):

Conflict of interest: The lead author is a consultant for a company that sells bakuchiol. (This does not invalidate the study, but it does call for caution).
The sample: 44 people is microscopic in science. Studies on retinol involve thousands of cases.
Duration: 12 weeks is enough to see the effect on skin texture, but too short to judge the deep anti-aging effect (on established wrinkles), which takes 6 to 12 months.

3. The Car Analogy (To understand everything)

If bakuchiol is not vitamin A, how can it produce similar results?

Imagine two cars: one Ferrari gasoline (Retinol) and a Electric Tesla (Bakuchiol).

Retinol (Ferrari): It's powerful, brutal, noisy (irritating), and requires an experienced driver, but it goes very fast on the track. The engine runs on combustion.
Bakuchiol (Tesla): It's quiet, smooth, and easy to drive. The engine is electric.

Both take you from point A to point B (improved skin). But the engine (the biological mechanism) is completely different.

Retinol forces cell renewal by binding directly to nuclear receptors.
Bakuchiol stimulates collagen and calms inflammation through indirect pathways (MMP inhibition, antioxidant).

Key conclusion: Have effects similar to the naked eye does not mean that it is the same biologically.

4. What science validates (and what it does not validate)

Let's be clear: bakuchiol is not a scam. It's an excellent ingredient, but we need to stop attributing powers to it that it hasn't yet proven.

✅ What has been PROVEN:

Excellent tolerance: No tingling, no redness.
Action on brightness: The complexion is brighter after 12 weeks.
Antioxidant : It provides good protection against environmental aging.
Photostable: Unlike retinol, it does not degrade in light (you can apply it in the morning).

❌ What is NOT proven:

Perfectly equal to retinol: No long-term studies (> 1 year) prove that it smooths deep wrinkles as well as retinol.
Action on severe acne: Retinol remains the best ingredient for unclogging pores (keratolytic). Bakuchiol helps, but is less powerful.

5. The verdict: Bakuchiol or Retinol? (My guide)

Marketing wants you to choose a side. In reality, it all depends on your profile.

Choose BAKUCHIOL if:

✅ Your skin is ultra-sensitive or rosacea (retinol is not suitable for you).
✅ You are pregnant or breastfeeding* (*always consult your doctor, but this is the safest option).
✅ You want a simple routine without an adjustment period («retinization»).
✅ Are you mainly looking for prevention (20-30 years old) and radiance.

Choose RETINOL (or Retinal) if:

✅ You want maximum efficiency scientifically proven.
✅ Do you have any deep wrinkles or visible sun damage.
✅ You deal with’acne or scars.
✅ You are prepared to endure a few weeks of adjustment.

The last word

Bakuchiol is not the «new retinol.» It is the Bakuchiol. It's a fantastic ingredient in its own right, especially for sensitive skin. But don't throw away your tube of retinol if your skin can tolerate it: in terms of pure power, the «Ferrari» remains a step ahead.

What about you? Team Retinol (hardcore) or Team Bakuchiol (gentle)? Let me know in the comments!

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