Beauty of Joseon: review and scientific analysis of the range
Formulations, BeautyDecoded scores and verified returns
Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026
ℹ️ This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice. Recommendations must be adapted to each individual. BeautyDecoded application is an algorithmic cosmetic analysis tool that identifies the products best suited to your profile among 80 skin types.
The Beauty of Joseon brand - philosophy and positioning
Beauty of Joseon is one of Korea's most representative marquess of the 20th century. K-beauty scientifically based. Its name refers to the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), period during which the hanbang - traditional Korean pharmacopoeia - codified the entire body of therapeutic knowledge: plants, acupuncture and healing rituals.
What sets this brand apart from other K-beauty labels is that its Hanbang roots are not purely narrative. Ginseng, fermented rice and centella asiatica are active ingredients whose efficacy has been documented by modern research independently of their traditional use. The formulations feature serious concentrations and quantified ingredients.
«K-beauty is not uniformly serious. Beauty of Joseon is one of the Korean marquess whose formulations are truly scientifically justified. Relief Sun in particular uses new-generation UV filters that are absent from classic European SPFs.» - Dr Sylvain David
Beauty of Joseon products - overview
| Product | Note Beautydecoded | Notice (n) | Price |
| Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ PA++++ | 4.47/5 | 72 notices | ~17 € / 50 ml |
| Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide | 4.80/5 | 10 reviews | ~15 € / 30 ml |
| Revive Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin | 4.50/5 | 2 reviews | ~15 € / 30 ml |
| Ginseng Essence Water | 4.18/5 | 34 notices | ~19 € / 150 ml |
| Dynasty Cream | 4.62/5 | 13 notices | ~22 € / 50 ml |
| Revive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal | 4.48/5 | 47 notices | ~18 € / 30 ml |
Beauty of Joseon reviews and analysis - product by product
Relief Sun SPF50+ PA++++ - opinion and analysis
★★★★☆ 4.47/5 - 72 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~17 € / 50 ml | Range : Suncare
Beautydecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 64.4 |
| Oily skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 77.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.5 |
| Anti-aging | 49.3 |
| Imperfections | 76.5 |
| Redness | 46.8 |
| Stains | 49.3 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : ✓ Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.5)
Expert deciphering
The UV filters used - Uvinul A, Tinosorb S, T-150, UVA Sorb - represent a new-generation combination not widely used in conventional European formulations. Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) offers broad-spectrum UVA and UVB coverage with high photostability (Osterwalder U. et al., Photochem Photobiol Sci, 2014).
Blemish score: 76.5/100 - consistent with the presence of probiotics (Lactobacillus), whose modulating action on the skin microbiome has been documented. Sensitive skin score: +0.5 - appropriate. Free from fragrance, alcohol and controversial filters (oxybenzone, octinoxate).
Documented formulatory limitation: absence of long UVA filtration (380-400 nm), unlike La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Mexoryl technology. For strict anti-photo-aging protocols, this point is worth mentioning.
📚 Source: Guéniche A et al. Probiotics for photoprotection. Eur J Dermatol. 2010.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David
«Relief Sun is a relevant option for everyday urban use. Its texture/protection/tolerance ratio is objectively superior to most conventional drugstore SPFs. The limitation on long UVA rays only concerns profiles seeking maximum anti-photo-aging protection.»
Verdict: 9/10 - Daily SPF reference. New-generation filters, excellent tolerance. No long UVA filtration.
Summary of user reviews (Beautydecoded)
★★★★★ «Finally a light, effective sun cream - fast penetration, no greasy film, holds up all summer long.»
★★★★☆ «Fluid, does not sting the eyes, no white marks. Perfect makeup base.»
★★★★★ «Light in summer, easy to apply, good protection for the office. Separate product for direct exposure.»
★★★★☆ «Makes skin soft, helps makeup adhere, good hydration. Recommended.»
★★★★★ «I use this sunblock every day without any problems despite having very reactive skin.»
Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide - opinion and analysis
★★★★★ 4.80/5 - 10 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~15 € / 30 ml | Range : Serums
Beautydecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.1 |
| Anti-aging | 42.5 |
| Imperfections | 81.6 |
| Redness | 81.6 |
| Stains | 42.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : ✓ Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.15)
Expert deciphering
Formula: 60 % propolis (antibacterial, anti-inflammatory), 2 % niacinamide (barrier reinforcement, sebum regulation, melanosome transfer inhibition), 0.5 % BHA - salicylic acid (intrapillar pore exfoliation). Propolis' antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes is documented in the literature (Sforcin JM. Phytomedicine, 2016).
Blemish score: 81.6/100. Redness score: 81.6/100 - the two highest of the Beauty of Joseon range analyzed. Dry skin score: 91 - universal profile for all dry to combination skin types. Sensitive skin score: +0.15, suitable.
Point of vigilance: niacinamide concentration at 2 % - below the 5 % threshold documented for optimal inhibition of melanosome transfer. For strict anti-spot protocols, a combination with niacinamide serum 10 % may be relevant.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David
«Glow Serum is a relevant option for combination to oily skin prone to imperfections or inflammatory reactivity. The propolis concentration is substantial. Niacinamide at 2 % is a useful but insufficient base on its own for an intensive anti-pigmentation protocol.»
Verdict: 9/10 - The most versatile serum in the range. High imperfections and redness scores. Suitable for combination to oily skin.
Summary of user reviews (Beautydecoded)
★★★★★ «Skin feels soft and moisturized, imperfections gradually disappear - combination to oily skin.»
★★★★★ «Glass skin effect guaranteed. Very pleasant to apply, visible results on radiance.«
★★★★☆ «Good product, illuminates the complexion in combination with other skincare products from the brand. Excellent value for money.»
★★★★☆ «Gentle serum that penetrates well, comfortable skin - no irritation but progressive results.»
★★★☆☆ «Too bad the niacinamide concentration is only 2 % - addition of 10 % niacinamide serum needed for stains.»
Revive Serum Ginseng + Snail Mucin - opinion and analysis
★★★★★ 4.50/5 - 2 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~15 € / 30 ml | Range : Serums
Beautydecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 90.3 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 90.3 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.5 |
| Anti-aging | 56.1 |
| Imperfections | 12.8 |
| Redness | 19.6 |
| Stains | 51.9 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : △ Slight caution recommended (score: -0.5)
Expert deciphering
Base: 63 % ginseng infusion + 3 % snail mucin + niacinamide + hyaluronic acid + centella asiatica. Snail mucin contains glycoproteins, glycolic acids and allantoin - active ingredients documented for their action on skin repair and collagen synthesis (Tsoutsos D. et al., J Dermatolog Treat, 2009).
Dry skin score: 90.3/100. Normal to dry skin score: 90.3/100 - optimal profile for dry and combination to dry skin. Anti-aging score: 56.1 - correct. Low imperfections score (12.75): this serum is not positioned for acne-prone skin.
Sensitive skin score: -0.5 - slight caution recommended. User feedback confirms good general tolerance. The 30 ml format runs out quickly - the 60 ml format is recommended for daily use.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David
«Revive Serum is a relevant option for dry skin or skin losing vitality looking for a repairing, plumping active ingredient. Its score profile clearly favors normal to dry skin. It's a complementary formulation to Glow Serum, not a substitute.»
Verdict: 8.5/10 - Complete repairing and moisturizing serum. Optimal for dry skin. Prefer 60 ml format.
Summary of user reviews (Beautydecoded)
★★★★★ «Lovely texture - hydrated, plumped skin. The 30 ml format runs out quickly, better get the 60 ml jumbo.»
★★★★★ «Very pleasant serum, evens and brightens the complexion. Suitable for sensitive skin.»
★★★★☆ «Fan of this serum for its soothing effect and comfort upon application.»
Ginseng Essence Water - opinion and analysis
★★★★☆ 4.18/5 - 34 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~19 € / 150 ml | Range : Essences
Beautydecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 79.8 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 79.8 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.5 |
| Anti-aging | 79.9 |
| Imperfections | 8.5 |
| Redness | 8.5 |
| Stains | 51.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : ✓ Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.5)
Expert deciphering
Composition: 80 % ginseng root water + 2 % niacinamide + hyaluronic acid. Ginsenoside - the active ingredient in ginseng - has antioxidant and collagen synthesis-stimulating properties documented in vitro and in vivo (Cho S. et al., J Ginseng Res, 2015). Alcohol-free, no colorants, no artificial fragrances.
Anti-ageing score: 79.9/100 - the second highest of the BoJ range analyzed, consistent with the ginsenoside concentration. Sensitive skin score: +0.5 - suitable. Low imperfections score (8.5): this product does not target acne-prone skin.
A cautionary note in user feedback: some acne-prone profiles report breakouts after use - probably linked to the relative occlusivity of the ginseng extract. A limited-area test period is still recommended for reactive, oily acne-prone skin.
📚 Source: Cho S. et al. Ginseng and skin health. J Ginseng Res. 2015.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David
«Ginseng Essence is relevant for normal to dry skin looking for a light anti-aging care as the first step of a routine. Its anti-aging score (79.9) is serious. On oily or acne-prone skin, Glow Serum is preferable.»
Verdict: 8/10 - Well-suited to normal to dry skin. High anti-aging score. Test with caution on reactive acne-prone skin.
Summary of user reviews (Beautydecoded)
★★★★★ «Incredible - gives skin a real glow in just a few months of use. Soothing and gentle.»
★★★★★ «Extremely soothing, I use it every day as the first step in my routine.»
★★★☆☆ «Very liquid texture, fragrance-free, good tolerance. No visible changes after several months - no miracle.»
★★★☆☆ «Tone correct, has no miracle effect. Use as a first step before serum and moisturizer.»
★★☆☆☆ «Not spit out. Insufficient results for my combination skin.»
Dynasty Cream - review
★★★★★ 4.62/5 - 13 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22 € / 50 ml | Range : Creams
Beautydecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 66.5 |
| Oily skin | 42.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 70.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 70.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.5 |
| Anti-aging | 76.5 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 17.0 |
| Stains | 17.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : △ Slight caution recommended (score: -0.5)
Expert deciphering
Formula: 3 forms of hyaluronic acid + glycerine (multi-level epidermal hydration), ceramides + squalane (lipid barrier restoration and limitation of insensible water loss), rice extract + niacinamide (barrier reinforcement, moderate anti-pigmentation effect), ginseng (antioxidant).
Anti-ageing score: 76.5/100 - the highest of all skincare products (excluding eye serum). Dry skin score: 66.5, normal to dry skin: 70 - profile clearly geared towards dry to normal skin. Oily skin score: 42 - not suitable for oily skin.
Rich texture, but good absorption according to most feedbacks. May be occlusive on oily skin in summer conditions. Sensitive skin score -0.5: slight caution, consistent with the richness of the formula.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David
«Dynasty Cream is a relevant option for normal to dry skin looking for dense hydration with an anti-aging component. Its anti-aging score (76.5) is the best in the cream range. It is not suitable for oily skin, particularly in summer.»
Verdict : 8.5/10 - Anti-ageing moisturizing reference for dry to normal skin. Not recommended for oily skin in summer.
Summary of user reviews (Beautydecoded)
★★★★★ «Soft, comfortable cream. May leave a slight luminous effect - to be anticipated depending on the skin.»
★★★★☆ «Rich, non-irritating moisture, absorbed quickly. Correct make-up base.»
★★★★☆ «Pleasantly surprised: light and moisturizing, with no sticky effect. Sensorially pleasant.»
★★★★☆ «Simple and effective - does its job without frills. Light texture with no odor.»
★★☆☆☆ «Sticky texture on my skin, unpleasant finish. Not spit out for oily skin.»
Revive Eye Serum Ginseng + Retinal - opinion and analysis
★★★★☆ 4.48/5 - 47 avis BeautyDecoded | Price : ~18 € / 30 ml | Range : Eye contour
Beautydecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 86.8 |
| Oily skin | 87.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 86.8 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -2.2 |
| Anti-aging | 90.1 |
| Imperfections | 76.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 85.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : ⚠ Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.2)
Expert deciphering
Combination of ginseng (antioxidant) and retinal - an aldehydic form of vitamin A requiring a single enzymatic conversion step to retinoic acid, theoretically more effective at equivalent concentrations than retinol (Sorg O. et al., Dermatology, 2006). Anti-ageing score: 90.1/100 - the highest of the entire BoJ range analyzed.
Stains score: 85/100. Imperfections score: 76.5/100. This serum concentrates the three highest skin correction indicators in the range. Universal profile for all skin types (scores ≥ 86.8 on all profiles).
Sensitive skin score: -2.2 - not suitable without precautions. The periorbital area is the thinnest on the face, with dense vascularization: the application of retinal requires gradual introduction. User feedback confirms that dryness may occur, but this can be compensated for by applying a complementary layer of eye contour moisturizer.
📚 Source: Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging. Clin Interv Aging. 2006.
⚠ Retinal: exclusive nocturnal use recommended. Gradual introduction (1 evening/week). SPF in the morning. Contraindicated in pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David
«Revive Eye Serum has the best anti-aging profile in the range (score 90.1). It's a relevant option for profiles looking for a serious corrective active in the periorbital area. Deep vascular or pigmented dark circles are beyond the scope of topical skincare products - expectations must be calibrated accordingly. Very gradual introduction mandatory (sensitivity score -2.2).»
Verdict: 8.5/10 - Best anti-aging score in the range. Gradual introduction mandatory. Combine with an eye contour moisturizer.
Summary of user reviews (Beautydecoded)
★★★★★ «Miraculous on my fine lines. Dries out a bit - I combine it with a moisturizing contour cream. Redeemed.»
★★★★★ «I've been using it every night for a year: visible results, proper hydration, I can't do without it.»
★★★★☆ «First test with retinoids - visible action on fine lines and wrinkles. I also apply it around the mouth and forehead.»
★★★★☆ «Very good value for money. Slightly dries out the eye area - perfect in combination with another contour cream in the evening.»
★★★★★ «Very effective, pleasant texture, very economical to use.»
Which routine best suits your profile?
Beauty of Joseon is a brand whose formulative rigor is real. Visit Relief Sun is the most technically advanced product on the market - its new-generation UV filters set it apart from conventional SPF products. Visit Revive Eye Serum has the highest anti-ageing score in the range (90.1/100) thanks to retinal, but its tolerance score for sensitive skin (-2.2) means that it needs to be introduced gradually. The Glow Serum is the most versatile for combination to blemish skin with redness and blemish scores above 81.
💡 BeautyDecoded application allows you to obtain a personalized algorithmic analysis based on your exact skin profile among 80 skin types - and to identify Beauty of Joseon products (or any other brand) adapted to your specific scores.
Frequently asked questions about Beauty of Joseon
Are Beauty of Joseon products suitable for sensitive skin?
Relief Sun (score +0.5), Glow Serum (+0.15) and Ginseng Essence Water (+0.5) are suitable for sensitive skin. Dynasty Cream (-0.5) and Revive Serum (-0.5) require slight caution. Revive Eye Serum (-2.2) is unsuitable for sensitive skin without a gradual introduction.
What is hanbang and why is it scientifically relevant?
Hanbang is the traditional Korean pharmacopoeia codified under the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910). The hanbang active ingredients used by Beauty of Joseon - ginseng, rice, centella asiatica - now have modern scientific documentation independent of their traditional use. They are not used for decorative purposes, but in documented concentrations.
Does Relief Sun protect against long UVA rays?
No. Relief Sun effectively covers short UVA and UVB rays with its new-generation filters (Tinosorb S, Uvinul A). It does not filter long UVA rays (380-400 nm). For this specific protection, La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Mexoryl 400 technology remains the benchmark available on the French consumer market.
Can Revive Eye Serum be used during pregnancy?
No. Any product containing retinal or retinol - regardless of concentration or route of application - is contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Ginseng Essence Water and Dynasty Cream are retinoid-free alternatives.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded is an algorithmic cosmetic analysis device. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types and profiles (dry, oily, sensitive, and 4 problem areas: anti-aging, blemishes, redness, spots). It does not constitute a medical consultation.
BeautyDecoded - Independent medical information.
Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon and Biomaterials Scientist.
