Isispharma My opinion on this cosmetics brand
My opinion on Isispharma products: when dermatology and skincare come together
When you read reviews of Isispharma dermatology products, the satisfaction of people suffering from recurrent skin redness, blotchy skin or hyperpigmentation naturally makes you want to try out this cosmetics brand. Founded in 1987 by pharmacist Christian Diehl, this French laboratory has developed several dermocosmetic solutions recommended by over 14,000 dermatologists. Acquired by the Dewavrin group in 2002, their 14 skin care ranges meet a growing demand for effective skincare solutions that respect epidermal sensitivities and complement medical treatments. Ruboryl, Neotone, Glyco A, Urélia, which ranges are worth a look? Do laboratories live up to their claims?
I give you my Isispharma selection, my opinion on the best face care products and the limits to their claims.
Isispharma, my opinion on the brand's essentials
Ruboryl: the range for sensitive skin prone to redness and couperose
Isispharma Ruboril creates a complete anti-redness beauty routine via seven beauty products. At the heart of the formulas is a patented β-Calm complex targeting the skin mechanisms responsible for diffuse or localized redness. The range takes care of your skin's appearance and health with its cleanser, serum and Isispharma Ruboryl skincare creams. User reviews and clinical results show visual improvement after 28 days of application.
Ruboril expert S anti-redness cream, for sensitive to dry skin, treats redness that is diffused on a daily basis, and is packed with anti-inflammatory, soothing and repairing plant active ingredients to support the walls of small blood vessels and prevent them from dilating. It contains :
holly ;
centella asiatica ;
calendula officinalis ;
horse chestnut ;
panthenol ;
β-glycyrrhetinic acid extracted from licorice root.
The formula nourishes and replenishes your skin's lipidic film thanks to shea butter and vegetable wax. Humectants such as glycerin ensure moisture exchange from the dermis to the epidermis. Not forgetting niacinamide, which acts on all these skin parameters at once.
A healthy composition, respectful of skin sensitivities, which reveals all the benefits of the Isispharma Ruboryl range, with excellent value for money: expect to pay less than 15 euros for a 40 ml tube. This emulsion exists in an anti-redness gel-cream version for sensitive, normal to combination skin. It is marketed under the name Ruboril Expert M. For local redness problems, Isispharma Ruboril Expert Intense is more suitable. It also treats erythro-couperose epidermis. Its gel-like texture is less rich than the previous one, but contains higher concentrations of the same anti-redness active ingredients.
For more intense skin redness, the brand has developed Métroruboril A-Z cream with azelaic acid. This powerful active ingredient is capable of modulating the biological activity of degenerative skin cells that overreact to inflammatory phenomena. Find out more about this multifunctional molecule in my video. The Isispharma laboratory combines this molecule with their β-Calm complex to cover all known imbalances in cutaneous microcirculation. It costs around 15 euros, depending on the retailer.
Isispharma Neotone: the range for treating hyperpigmentation
To correct cutaneous hyperpigmentation, active ingredients block tyrosinase, an enzyme essential to melanin production. These substances also interfere with the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes. This is how diacetyl boldine works chemically, helping to reduce brown spots.
This active ingredient is combined with licorice extract (from licorice root) and niacinamide, which also has anti-tyrosinase activity. The three form the patented Depi-act depigmenting complex found in the Isispharma anti-spot range. My opinion of the seven products in this collection is rather mixed.
The Neotone range offers two interesting tinted formulas, medium and clear, if you're not afraid of nanoparticles: Neotone Prevent SPF 50+ protective tinted cream. Nanoparticles of titanium and zinc oxide protect you from UVA and B rays, while iron oxides and fractionated melanin protect you from the ravages of blue light. This sun protection acts on existing spots thanks to the presence of diacetyl boldine. A triple-action treatment that protects, applies make-up and acts on the biological mechanism of hyperpigmentation. Its creamy texture spreads perfectly during the make-up stage, leaving an even complexion. Fragrance- and alcohol-free.
Expect to pay around 15 euros for a 30 ml tube. It's a beautiful formulation, healthy and respectful of your skin.
Minuses:
Neotone Sensitive intensive balm offers a good balance of humectants/emollients and depigmenting active ingredients, but it is claimed to be dermatologically tested for sensitive skin, even though it contains fragrance.
The serum features moisturizing active ingredients such as beta-glucan, and anti-spot ingredients such as glycolic acid, niacinamide and salicylic acid. However, I note the presence of alcohol (fourth on the Inci list) and fragrance.
Neotone Radiance Intensive Protective Fluid SPF 50 contains homosalate, a filter known to be irritating.
The glyco-A range: superficial peeling at home
Loss of radiance, uneven skin relief, dilated pores, shiny skin, brown spots or old scar marks, sagging skin, fine lines - the Isispharma peeling range is made for you. Three concentrations of glycolic acid 10, 12 and 25 % to meet all skin tolerances to individual fruit acids.
The minimalist formula (9 ingredients) of Glyco-A médium peeling, night cream focuses on sebum overproduction, dull skin, the appearance of the first fine lines and the presence of imperfections such as dilated pores.
The 12 % glycolic acids are encapsulated in a fairly opaque texture to prevent insensible water loss, which is greater at night.
According to the Isispharma brand, when you wake up in the morning, your skin is brighter, matte and the texture has improved overall. As you use it, your tissues become smoother, pores tighten and your complexion becomes clearer. I have my doubts about Isispharma's Glyco A médium peeling cream. In my opinion, the occlusive effect of the fats and mineral oil doesn't seem ideal for combination to oily skin. I recommend it for normal to dry skin.
In this range, my preference is for Glyco-A Intense Peeling night cream, concentrated with 25 % glycolic acid combined with mandelic acid and gluconolactone. This fruit acid concentrate targets blemishes, tissue firmness, wrinkles and excess sebum. It penetrates your skin's deepest layers to boost collagen and hyaluronic acid production. After several weeks of use, your tissues are redensified. The keratolytic action retexturizes the skin. Sebum production and ostia diameter are reduced. Wrinkles are smoothed.
A dynamic trio with good value for money: around twenty euros for a 30 ml tube.
Opinions on Isispharma dermatology products: skincare formulas to complement medical treatments
Isispharma Urélia
The Urélia range is highly representative of Isispharma dermatology product reviews. It has been specifically developed to support skin affected by hyperkeratosis. This is the most superficial layer of the epidermis, known as the stratum corneum, which thickens as a result of :
overproduction of keratin (your skin's protein);
pathological acceleration of cell renewal;
immature keratinocytes that reach the epidermal surface and prevent the normal desquamation of dead cells.
This leads to scaly areas, inflammation and redness.
Isispharma proposes to alleviate two problems associated with the disease: hydration and desquamation. To this end, the company markets three products, based on exfoliants and moisturizers, to help evacuate dead cells and therefore flakes.
Isispharma Urelia 50 is a must-have from the brand. It's a complementary solution to medical treatments for hyperkeratosis. The laboratory incorporates 50 % of urea combined with three amino acids to draw water into the epidermis and ensure optimal hydration in the face of imbalances. At the same time, glycolic acid and lactic acid evacuate flaky skin. Shea butter supports the lipid barrier. Hydrocarbons and silicones are compatible and useful on this type of damaged skin. They replenish and, in the most severe cases, even reconstitute the cutaneous barrier. Finally, pseudoalteromonas ferments, supports and strengthens the cutaneous microbiome while promoting tissue repair. Its creamy, balm-like texture provides immediate comfort. This product is a fine example of Isispharma's galenic expertise. Reviews of this dermatological care product testify to the efficiency of the formula. Expect to pay less than 15 euros for a 40 ml tube.
Vitiskin cream
Isispharma Vitiskin promotes repigmentation of white areas associated with vitiligo disease. This regulating hydrogel contains vitamins B12, B5 and copper gluconate (a cofactor involved in melanin synthesis). Its application optimizes the phototherapy generally prescribed for patients suffering from this pathology. It costs slightly more than other Isispharma products: around 35 euros for a 50 ml bottle.
Isispharma anti-redness, Isispharma rosacea, Isispharma anti-imperfection position the brand in the dermocosmetics category. Although there are no retinol or pure vitamin C products, pathological skins will find rescue and complementary solutions to treatments for atopy, damaged epidermis, vitiligo or acne... In addition, the laboratory has chosen to integrate nanoparticles into their sun care products, molecules that are not universally acclaimed, but which are highly effective for UV protection. In short, their teams make the best of dermocosmetics accessible, with skincare compositions that offer good value for money. Don't hesitate to share your opinion on Isispharma products in the comments section.
Sources
Using Copper to Improve the Well-Being of the Skin - PubMed (nih.gov)
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