Brown Spots: How to Choose the Right Sunscreen?
Brown spots, also known as solar lentigines, often appear on the face, hands, or décolleté after years of repeated sun exposure. They can dull the complexion, age the appearance of the skin, and are difficult to remove once they have developed. However, it is possible to slow their progression and protect your skin effectively with the right sunscreen.
Why do brown spots appear?
Brown spots are a direct result of exposure to ultraviolet rays. Under the effect of UV rays, melanocytes—the cells responsible for producing melanin—react by synthesizing more pigment to protect the skin. This defense reaction is normal, but when it becomes excessive and disorganized, it results in the appearance of darker areas on the epidermis.
Oxidative stress plays a central role. It is an imbalance between the production of free radicals and the skin's ability to neutralize them. UV rays, pollution, and inflammation accelerate this phenomenon, damaging cells and promoting hyperpigmentation. Over time, these repeated aggressions cause solar lentigines, also known as age spots, to appear.
Certain conditions aggravate the problem, such as hormonal changes (melasma), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after acne or scarring, or the use of photosensitizing medications.
The keys to effective sun protection
To limit the appearance of brown spots, it is essential to use comprehensive sun protection that can block UV rays and neutralize free radicals.
First, choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVB rays, which cause sunburn, and UVA rays, which contribute to skin aging and hyperpigmentation. An SPF of 30 is the minimum for dark skin, while an SPF of 50 is recommended for fair, sensitive, or blemish-prone skin.
Next, choose formulas enriched with powerful antioxidants that can limit oxidative stress and protect skin cells. Vitamin C and its derivatives, ferulic acid, vitamin E or resveratrol are among the most widely studied. These active ingredients help prevent the appearance of new spots and contribute to evening out the complexion.
For targeted action, some sunscreens incorporate anti-dark spot ingredients such as niacinamide, tranexamic acid or alpha-arbutin. They act directly on melanin production and gradually fade existing spots.
How to apply sunscreen for optimal results
Even the most effective sunscreen will only be effective if it is applied correctly. It should be applied to clean, moisturized skin in a generous layer (2 mg/cm²) to all exposed areas: face, neck, chest, and hands.
It is essential to reapply the product every two hours, as well as after swimming or sweating. Areas that are often overlooked, such as the eye contour and the top of the cheekbones, must be carefully protected, as they are particularly prone to hyperpigmentation.
Finally, even with adequate sun protection, it is advisable to avoid prolonged exposure and to limit time spent in the sun during the most intense hours, between 12 noon and 3 p.m.
A daily routine to reduce dark spots
Sunscreen alone is not always enough to reduce existing spots. The integration of anti-blemish treatments in your daily routine optimizes results.
Serums containing niacinamide, vitamin C, or tranexamic acid can gradually reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
After the summer period, using retinol in the evening promotes cell renewal and helps fade brown spots, but it must be used with caution and always accompanied by sunscreen during the day.
Limit exposure to blue light Screens are also an interesting preventive measure, as they contribute to photoaging similar to that caused by UV rays.
Finally, a healthy lifestyle, including a diet rich in antioxidants (red fruits, green vegetables, nuts, vitamin C) and good hydration, strengthens the skin's natural defenses against oxidation.
