Why do your pimples keep coming back?
You use retinol, salicylic acid, niacinamide... You have a perfect anti-acne routine. You eat well.
But your pimples ALWAYS come back.
The problem? Your moisturizer (or SPF, or even your serum) contains comedogenic ingredients that silently clog your pores.
And the worst part? These products are often marketed «for oily skin» or «non-comedogenic»... even though they contain coconut oil (index 4/5) or cocoa butter (index 4/5).
What exactly is a comedogenic ingredient?
A comedogenic ingredient is a cosmetic component that has the ability to’obstruct the pilosebaceous follicle, This encourages the formation of microcomedones, blackheads and pimples.
⚠️ Key points to remember
Comedogenicity is not not an absolute property (white or black). It depends on 3 crucial factors:
- Concentration of the ingredient in the product
- The overall formula (emulsion, texture, other ingredients)
- Your skin type and application area
Why the concept is often misunderstood
Historically, comedogenicity tests have been carried out under conditions that do NOT reflect actual use:
- ❌ On bunny ears (much more sensitive than human skin)
- ❌ With pure applied ingredients (to 100%)
- ❌ Regardless of the final formulation
Result: Many ingredients are unfairly demonized («fear-marketing»), driving consumers to eliminate products that are nonetheless excellent and safe.
Comedogenicity scale (0 to 5)
The researchers classified hundreds of ingredients according to their comedogenicity index :
0: No risk
Compatible with all skin types
1-2: Low risk
Generally OK, except for very reactive skin
3: Moderate risk
Avoid for oily/acne-prone skin
4-5: High risk
HIGHLY comedogenic, avoid for acne-prone skin
💡 In the BeautyDecoded app: Ingredients ranked 3-5 automatically appear in the «Notable ingredients» section, so you can find them with just 1 click.
The most comedogenic ingredients (concrete examples)
Here are the main culprits to watch out for in your products:
🔴 High scores (4-5)
- Isopropyl Myristate
- Isopropyl Palmitate
- Myristyl Myristate
- Laureth-4
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (irritates skin, triggers inflammation → blackheads)
🟠 Moderate scores (2-3)
- Coconut Oil (Coconut oil)
- Cocoa Butter (Cocoa butter)
- Wheat Germ Oil (Wheat germ oil)
- Lanolin (Lanolin)
- Soybean Oil (Soybean oil)
Vegetable oils: Beware of preconceived ideas
❌ FALSE: «Oil = Comedogenic».»
It all depends on the chemical structure of the oil. Here are some concrete examples:
✅ Jojoba oil (0-1) : Composition similar to human sebum, excellent tolerance
✅ Squalane (0) : Stable and non-occlusive
❌ Coconut Oil (4): Large molecule, remains on the surface and clogs pores
⚠️ The oxidation factor
A «safe» oil (e.g. Rose Hip) can become comedogenic and irritating if it oxidizes (rancid) due to heat or light. Preservation is key.
📋 Download the complete list of comedogenic ingredients
Official classification (index 0 to 5) + Focus on oils + Decoding guide
Who is really concerned by comedogenic risk?
Tolerance to comedogenic ingredients is individual and depends on your skin type:
🔴 Red Zone (Vigilance required)
Skins acne-prone, oily, combination, or subject to microcysts
🟢 Green zone (low risk)
Skins very dry (which lack lipids) and mature skin
⚠️ Special case
The skins under drying treatment (Retinoids, Accutane) sometimes need more occlusive ingredients to restore the skin barrier.
👉 Remember: Dry skin will tolerate an ingredient rated 3 or 4 very well, as its pores are not very dilated and its sebum flow is low.
The overall formula is more important than the individual ingredient
This is the golden rule of cosmetics.
An ingredient classified as comedogenic may be perfectly harmless if :
1️⃣ It is present in low concentrations
Bottom of INCI list = negligible quantity
2️⃣ It is integrated into a well-formulated emulsion
Light texture, balanced water/fat ratio
3️⃣ It is combined with keratolytic active ingredients
Salicylic acid, Niacinamide prevent obstruction
⚠️ Conversely : A «Clean» formula too greasy can become comedogenic, even without «officially» comedogenic ingredients.
How do you know if YOUR products are comedogenic?
You have 2 options:
Option 1: Do it manually (long and tedious)
- Download the complete list of comedogenic ingredients
- Read the INCI label on each product
- Check each ingredient on the list
- Evaluate its position in the formula (= concentration)
- Analyze the ratio of aqueous to fatty ingredients
- Repeat for every product in your bathroom
Estimated time: 2-3 hours. Drop-out rate: 95%.
Option 2: Scan in 3 seconds (automatic)
📱 The BeautyDecoded app automatically analyzes :
- ✅ Comedogenic ingredients (location + hint)
- ✅ The water/fat ratio of the formula
- ✅ Estimated concentration (position in INCI)
- ✅ Compatibility with YOUR skin type
- ✅ Reviews from people with similar skin
→ You know instantly if the product is right for you.
Duration : 3 seconds per product. Precision rate : 95%.
💡 Things to remember
«There are no ingredients universally comedogenic. There are ingredients unsuitable for certain skin types, in certain contexts and concentrations».»
Sylvain | Founder BeautyDecoded
15 years of label analysis - 200K YouTube subscribers - 31K newsletter subscribers
Over 10,000 products analyzed to help you understand your skin