Acne scars: 3 tips to improve their appearance, according to science
Types of Acne Scars: Color and Texture
Acne scars can be divided into two main categories: those caused by the color and those related to texture.
1. Color Scars
- Redness (Post-inflammatory erythema - PIE) Redness: This redness appears after the inflammatory lesions have healed. They are due to the dilation of blood vessels and may persist for several months. They are more frequent in fair-skinned people.
- Brown spots (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation - PIH) Dark spots are the result of excessive melanin production following inflammation. More common in darker skin types, they can last a long time without treatment.
2. Texture Scars
- Atrophic (hollow) scars They appear when the skin lacks collagen during healing. There are three types:
- "Ice Pick small, deep and narrow.
- "Boxcar : wide with clean edges.
- "In the well irregular, giving a wavy appearance.
- Hypertrophic and cheloid (raised) scars Keloids: due to excessive collagen production. Keloids, in particular, often extend beyond the initial lesion.
The Best Cosmetic Ingredients to Improve Acne Scars
1. For redness (post-inflammatory erythema)
- Niacinamide Calms inflammation and reduces redness.
- Centella Asiatica Promotes tissue repair.
- Licorice extract Brightens redness.
- Allantoin Moisturizes and soothes.
Recommended routine : Serums or creams containing 5% niacinamide.
2. For brown spots (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
- Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) Brightens spots and evens skin tone.
- Tranexamic acid Effective against persistent stains.
- Kojic acid Reduces melanin production.
- Retinol accelerates cell renewal.
Recommended routine : Vitamin C serums (15%-20%) or targeted retinol treatments.
3. For Textured Scars
For Atrophic (Hollow) Scars
- Retinol Stimulates collagen production.
- AHA (glycolic acid) exfoliates skin for a smoother texture.
- Peptides support collagen production.
- Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizes and plumps.
For Hypertrophic (Raised) Scars
- Silicone flattens and softens raised scars.
- Onion extracts Reduce hypertrophic scars.
Recommended routine : Combine retinol creams and silicone gels for localized treatment.
Complete Your Routine with Professional Treatments
For more pronounced scars, consult a dermatologist to consider options such as:
- Fractional Laser Stimulates collagen to fill in hollow scars.
- Microneedling Improves skin texture.
- Chemical peels reduce blemishes and refine the skin's surface.
Acne scars, though complex, can be reduced with regular, appropriate skin care. Identifying the type of scarring and choosing the right cosmetic ingredients is the key to regaining healthier, more even skin. With patience and perseverance, you can see significant results.
