Damask rose oil: the floral elixir that defies the years!
Every spring, millions of pale pink petals are hand-picked in the Bulgarian valleys. In less than three hours, they are placed in large stills: it will take nearly 5,000 kg of flowers to produce only 1 kg of essential oil. Long known for its fragrance, Damask rose oil (Rosa × damascena) Today, it reveals dermatological potential confirmed by research: a powerful antioxidant, soothing agent of choice, and true firmness booster.
1. A legendary flower and exceptional terroirs
Descended from ancient crossbreeds, the Damask rose thrives in well-drained soil, where nights are cool and the altitude often exceeds 900 m: the Valley of Roses in Bulgaria, the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, and the Isparta Plateau in Turkey. Picked at dawn, the flower retains a maximum of volatile compounds before being distilled the same day. This short supply chain explains its exceptional quality but also its limited global production—just a few tons per year.
2. Extraction: cohobation, or the art of doubling the steam
The traditional process involves two passes of low-pressure steam.
- First distillation : the steam passes through the petals and carries the aromatic compounds with it; the distillate naturally separates into hydrosol and «direct essence.».
- Second distillation : the hydrosol obtained is returned to the still to produce the ’indirect essence.«.
The final blend combines approximately one-third direct essence with two-thirds indirect essence; this proportion maximizes the richness of the fragrance without altering the heat-sensitive molecules.
3. A biochemical profile of rare complexity
The oil mainly contains alcohols. monoterpenic (responsible for the plant's aromas):
- Citronellol (up to half of the composition): fragrant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory.
- Geraniol and nerol : tissue regenerators, toners, and fragrances.
- Phenylethanol : mild astringent and natural preservative.
- Linalool, farnesol : painkillers and antiseptics.
- Valuable helpers : esters (geranyl acetate) and flavonoids such as kaempferol, all involved in antioxidant protection.
4. Mechanisms of action on the skin and scalp
Calms inflammation
Citronellol inhibits the release of histamine; regular application visibly reduces redness and feelings of heat.
Firmness and skin density
When applied topically, the oil increases collagen I gene expression and improves skin elasticity within a few weeks, helping to reduce wrinkles and sagging.
Antioxidant shield
Tests show radical scavenging comparable to that of tocopherol (vitamin E), the presence of flavonoids (kaempferol) enhances this protective effect against oxidative stress caused by UV rays, pollution, or smoking.
Hair benefits
Its astringent properties regulate excess sebum at the root and add shine to dull hair, while aromatic alcohols coat the fiber and act as long-lasting fragrances.
5. Preferred indications
- Mature, dull, or sagging skin
- Reactive skin prone to redness, rosacea, or mild eczema
- Areas marked by fresh stretch marks
- Dull hair lacking shine
6. Essential dosages and precautions
For leave-on treatments, the content generally does not exceed 0.6% TP4T, diluted in vegetable oil. Due to the presence of methyl eugenol Potentially sensitizing, pregnant women before the third month, infants, and very young children should avoid contact. A 24-hour skin test in the crook of the elbow remains the rule before first use.
7. Storage
Amber glass bottle, airtight cap, stable temperature below 25°C, and protected from light: these conditions limit the oxidation of volatile compounds and extend the shelf life to 12 to 18 months after opening.
