Dandruff: What's Really Behind This Scalp Condition

Dandruff are often perceived as a mere aesthetic nuisance. However, they may actually reveal a deeper imbalance in the scalp. Present in nearly one in two people, mostly men, they can become a real headache in everyday life. Why do they appear? What are the biological mechanisms at work? And above all, how can they be differentiated and treated effectively?
What exactly is film?
Dandruff is dandruff, i.e., fragments of dead skin cells that detach from the scalp abnormally. Their appearance is generally linked to excessively rapid skin cell renewal, causing excessive flaking. This phenomenon can result in small white particles visible in the hair or on clothing, sometimes accompanied by itching.
The two main types of film
Dry dandruff:
Fine, white, and volatile, they easily fall onto the shoulders. They generally develop on dry or dehydrated scalps. The absence of sebum makes them easier to detach.
Oily dandruff:
Thicker, yellowish, and adhering to the scalp, they are often associated with excessive sebum production. Their sticky texture promotes accumulation, sometimes in patches, and is often accompanied by significant itching.
What science reveals about the origin of dandruff
Accelerated cell renewal
Normally, scalp cells renew themselves in about 28 days. In the case of dandruff, this cycle is significantly shortened (to 7 to 14 days), preventing the cells from maturing properly. As a result, they accumulate on the surface of the skin in the form of visible flakes.
The role of yeasts of the genus Malassezia
These microorganisms, which are naturally present on the skin, can become problematic when they multiply excessively. By breaking down sebum lipids, they produce irritating fatty acids that damage the skin barrier and cause an inflammatory reaction, contributing to the formation of dandruff.
Individual susceptibility
Genetic factors influence susceptibility to dandruff. Some people have a more fragile skin barrier, an exaggerated immune response, or excessive sebum production.
Aggravating factors:
- Emotional stress
- Unbalanced diet
- Hormonal changes
- Hair products that cause irritation
- Climate (cold weather, dry air, or pollution)
How can you tell the difference between a film and a more serious condition?
In some cases, what looks like a film may be a sign of a more complex condition, such as seborrheic dermatitis or even psoriasis of the scalp. These conditions are usually accompanied by redness, intense itching, and thick patches, and require dermatological advice.
Treating dandruff effectively: steps to take
1. Space out your shampoos
Washing your hair too often can irritate the scalp and stimulate the sebaceous glands. It is recommended that you do not wash your hair more than 2 to 3 times a week.
2. Use a shampoo with suitable ingredients
- Antifungals : Piroctone olamine, ketoconazole, ciclopirox.
- Keratolytics Salicylic acid, lactic acid to remove dead skin cells.
- Soothing Bisabolol, calendula to reduce itching.
- Sebum regulators : Zinc, nettle, clay.
3. Avoid hot water and heating appliances
They irritate the skin and promote sebum production.
4. Strengthen the skin barrier
The addition of moisturizing and repairing ingredients such as squalane, glycerin or aloe vera can restore a lasting balance.
When should you consult a professional?
If dandruff persists despite appropriate care, is accompanied by redness, or spreads to other areas of the face or body, a dermatological consultation is essential. A professional will be able to make an accurate diagnosis and recommend medical treatment if necessary.
