Hyaluronic Acid: Injection or cream? Here's the truth that no one tells you!
Hyaluronic acid has become an essential pillar in the field of skin care and aesthetic medicine. Naturally present in our bodies, it plays an essential role in skin hydration and elasticity. With so many methods of use available, how do you choose between injections and topical applications? Let's dive into the specifics of these two approaches to help you make an informed decision.
Hyaluronic acid: essential star or false promise?
You've probably heard of hyaluronic acid: in creams, serums, or even injections... It's everywhere! Cosmetics companies tout it as the ultimate moisturizing ingredient, while cosmetic medicine has made it its number one ally for plumping up the skin. However, some voices are accusing it of causing irritation and inflammation, to the point of banning it altogether. So, myth or reality? Here I give you my opinion on this superstar (and its possible downfall), its real characteristics, the best way to use it and, finally, my product recommendations.
Why is hyaluronic acid getting so much attention?
Naturally present in our bodies (joints, muscles, skin), hyaluronic acid is best known as humectant : it attracts and retains an enormous amount of water (up to 5 liters per gram!), making it a champion of hydration. As we age, our hyaluronic acid levels decrease, leaving the skin more vulnerable to wrinkles and sagging. Hence the (somewhat simplistic) idea that applying it in cosmetics could compensate for this deficiency and combat the signs of aging.
Limited scientific evidence on anti-aging effects
Discovered in 1934, hyaluronic acid has been the subject of numerous studies... but mainly concerning wound healing or injections. On its genuine anti-aging effect when applied topically, studies are rarer. However, one study conducted on patients suffering from acne and treated with Roaccutane shows that hyaluronic acid significantly improves skin dryness (and even acne). But apart from this specific case, there is a severe lack of evidence.
Injections vs. application: what they often forget to tell you
In cosmetic medicine, hyaluronic acid is injected directly into the dermis or under the skin. To ensure that it lasts longer than 24 to 48 hours (its natural lifespan), it is cross-linked : bridges are created between molecules to slow down its degradation. Depending on the level of cross-linking, the effects can last from 6 months to 1.5 years.
In cosmetics, even at different molecular weights, hyaluronic acid does not penetrate the dermis: it remains in the epidermis. Furthermore, it is naturally destroyed by our bodies within 24 to 48 hours. This is why its famous “plumping” effect remains temporary. temporary.
Why some people love it... and others hate it
- Big advantage : it is one of the most moisturizing ingredients, without any greasy effect or risk of clogging pores (non-comedogenic). It is suitable for almost all skin types, whether dry or oily.
- The other side of the coin Some people are sensitive to it, especially when the skin barrier is weakened (wounds, very irritated skin). It can then cause redness or inflammation. In case of a suspicious reaction, it is better to stop using the product in question rather than ban hyaluronic acid altogether.
How to use it effectively in your routine?
- Cream or serum?
- If you use a hyaluronic acid cream (which also contains emollients and occlusives), apply it to slightly damp skin to optimize hydration.
- When using a pure serum (containing only humectants), always remember to seal in moisture with a moisturizer or moisturizing SPF. Otherwise, the water attracted to the skin may evaporate, potentially worsening dryness.
- Be careful with the serum + retinol combo
- Applying a hyaluronic acid serum before a retinol cream can enhance the action of the latter (and therefore increase irritation). Proceed with caution and observe your skin's reaction.
- Environment
- Do you live in a very humid region? You can sometimes skip using an occlusive (rich cream) after your hyaluronic acid serum. The ambient air will provide all the moisture you need.
Hyaluronic acid remains a superior moisturizer, capable of providing a quick boost and temporarily smoothing fine lines. But don't be fooled by the confusion between injections and topical application: its anti-aging effects remain moderate in creams or serums. That doesn't prevent it from being a powerful asset in a moisturizing routine, provided it is used correctly.
In plain language, Test, observe your skin, and choose a product that suits you. If you experience irritation, switch formulas before completely ruling out hyaluronic acid. And if you're looking for a truly effective long-term anti-aging treatment, don't forget about essential ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C.
Want to go further? Below are my product recommendations and tips for getting the most out of hyaluronic acid without any (unpleasant) surprises!
How to Choose Between Injections and Topical Applications?
The choice between these two methods depends on your personal goals, your tolerance for invasive procedures, and your budget. If you are looking for significant correction of deep wrinkles or restoration of facial volume, injections may be the appropriate solution. On the other hand, for daily hydration and improvement of skin texture, topical applications are recommended.
It is also possible to combine these two approaches to enjoy the benefits of each. For example, after an injection, using topical products can help prolong the effects and maintain optimal skin hydration.
