What is "ASCORBYL PALMITATE" and what does it do?

Role: EMOLLIENT

Family: VITAMIN C Derivative

Comedogenic index: 2

Ascorbyl palmitate is a form of vitamin C combined with palmitic acid, used in cosmetics for its specific properties.

Stability and Formulation
Combination with Palmitic Acid: Creates an oil-soluble form of vitamin C that's easier to formulate.
Comparison with Pure Vitamin C: Less effective in terms of skin penetration and conversion into vitamin C.

Designed to solve vitamin C's stability problems while preserving its benefits, PA doesn't seem to live up to all its promises. Its stability is similar to that of pure ascorbic acid, which means it's not really stable. One study compared several vitamin C derivatives and concluded that only AP had similar stability to AA. A far from satisfactory result.

Properties:
Antioxidant effectiveness: Has antioxidant properties, but is less effective than other forms of vitamin C.
Synergy with Vitamin E: Used in combination with Vitamin E to stabilize air-sensitive ingredients.
Limits and applications
Limited penetration and conversion: Studies indicate less efficient absorption and conversion of vitamin C.
Use in Cosmetics: Generally used in small quantities (0.1-1%) to stabilize other ingredients.
Moisturizing properties: Offers moisturizing benefits that other forms of vitamin C don't.
Other uses
Use in Food Additives: Also used as a food additive to improve oil stability.

Conclusion
Although ascorbyl palmitate is a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C, it is generally less favored due to its lower efficacy compared with other derivatives. It is, however, useful for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties in certain cosmetic products.

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