Keratosis pilaris: Tanning as a “false remedy”
Every summer, the small rough bumps of keratosis pilaris seem to fade with sun exposure. But should we consider the sun as a treatment? Behind this fleeting improvement lie complex skin mechanisms... and very real risks to skin health. Here we explain and offer practical advice on how to manage this benign but persistent condition in the long term.
1. Keratosis pilaris: a quick reminder
It is a benign condition affecting up to 40% of adults and 50–80% of adolescents. Keratosis pilaris results from an excess of keratin that clogs the hair follicles and forms rough papules, especially on the arms, thighs, and legs. Genetics is the main factor, but dry skin and certain dermatological conditions (eczema, ichthyosis) aggravate the condition.
2. Summer and keratosis pilaris: why the appearance improves
. Pigment camouflage
UV rays stimulate melanin production by activating the MC1R receiver on melanocytes. The brown pigment visually evens out the skin tone, temporarily masking the papules.
. Adaptive thickening of the epidermis
Under the effect of UVB rays, the stratum corneum thickens; this transient hyperkeratosis visually smooths the skin but does not treat follicular obstruction.
3. UV rays: short-lived benefits, lasting damage
- Recurrence of lesions As soon as the sunlight diminishes, the epidermis returns to its original thickness and the papules reappear.
- Accelerated photoaging : DNA damage, premature wrinkles and age spots.
- Skin cancers : more than 100,000 cases annually in France, including 80,% linked to excessive sun exposure.
- Inflammation and dryness : sunburn, itching, and potential worsening of roughness.
4. Strategies for smoothing the skin
- Regular exfoliation : 10% urea or polyhydroxy acids (PHA) to remove dead skin cells.
- Glycolic acid peels : protocols 50–70 % reducing papules by up to 58 % after four sessions, to be performed under medical supervision and outside the summer season.
- Twice-daily hydration : emollients rich in ceramides, plant butters, and humectants to soften the skin.
- Daily sun protection : broad spectrum sunscreen (SPF 50+), essential even when lesions appear less visible.
5. Hair removal and ingrown hairs
Opt for depilatory cream or laser hair removal, which respect the hair growth cycle. Avoid waxing, shaving, and electric epilators, all of which can cause ingrown hairs and aggravate inflammation.
