Melasma: 5 common mistakes to avoid

It is common to observe errors in the processing of melasma which not only prevent the skin from improving, but can sometimes even cause it to deteriorate.

Aiming for a definitive cure: Melasma is a chronic condition with no absolute cure. Understanding that it is treatable but not curable is crucial to adjusting expectations and approaching treatment correctly.

Lack of long-term strategy: Melasma treatment is divided into two phases: active treatment and maintenance. Treatment never really stops, but adapts as needed.

Omit sun protection: UV rays are a key factor in the aggravation of melasma. A ground protectionRegular check-ups are essential to prevent the condition from worsening.

Relying solely on cosmetic treatments: Even if treatments such as lasers or peels can temporarily improve the appearance of the skin, it is preferable to give priority to medical treatments first, and to consider cosmetic procedures as complementary. Cosmetic procedures do not replace the need for maintenance treatment.

Alpha arbutin

Tranexamic acid

Azelaic acid

Lack of flexibility: Melasma can be influenced by various factors during adult life, such as pregnancy or contraceptive use. Adapting treatment to these changes is essential for effective management.

In short, treating melasma requires patience, perseverance and a good understanding of the condition. Instant solutions don't exist, so it's vital to focus on a long-term approach and avoid these common mistakes.

What is melasma?

Melasma is a hyperpigmentation condition causing an increase in melanin, the skin pigment. Depending on your basic skin color, it can appear as brown patches, sometimes bluish or gray, on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and even the chest and arms. Interestingly, melasma affects women more than men, and is more common in people with darker skin.

The causes of melasma are not yet fully understood, but there is a strong genetic predisposition. Triggering factors can include exposure to UV rays, hormonal changes, for example during pregnancy or when taking contraceptive pills. Melasma can appear at any time in adult life, usually between the ages of 20 and 30.

It's essential to understand that there is no definitive cure for melasma. It is a chronic skin condition that can be significantly improved but not completely cured. Melasma sufferers need to adopt a long-term treatment plan to manage and prevent flare-ups.

Common mistakes made by melasma sufferers include looking for a definitive treatment and not having a long-term treatment strategy. It's important to always follow a course of treatment, even when there's no current flare-up. Skin care, topical and oral medications are essential to manage the hyperpigmentation caused by melasma.

Finally, wearing sunscreen is crucial to the prevention and treatment of melasma. Exposure to UV rays is the main trigger for this condition, so it's imperative to regularly protect your skin from the sun.

Long-term treatment

One of the common mistakes I notice in melasma sufferers is the search for a permanent cure. It's essential to understand that melasma is a chronic skin condition, which means that once it develops, it will persist to some degree for the rest of your life. This doesn't mean you can't dramatically improve your melasma, but the idea that you'll treat it once and never have to deal with it again is an incorrect expectation.

You may have a melasma flare-up in your life and your skin may return to its baseline condition afterwards, but you will always have an increased tendency to develop pigmentation. For the majority of people who develop melasma, they will always have some degree of hyperpigmentation, which can vary over time.

Understanding that melasma is not curable but treatable will help you set the right expectations for interventions. For example, many of my patients tell me that they had melasma, they did this or that procedure, then they stopped treatment and their melasma came back. This frustrates them enormously, and it happens because they didn't have a long-term plan to manage their melasma.

To properly treat melasma, it's important to divide your treatment into two categories: care to be taken in the event of a flare-up, and maintenance care to be applied all the time. There's never a time when you don't treat your melasma, only times when interventions differ if you have a lot of pigmentation or if it's under control and you want to maintain it.

Another crucial aspect of melasma treatment is sun protection. The sun's UV rays are the main trigger for melasma, so if you don't take the regular application of sun protection seriously, you could undo any progress you've made in treating your melasma. Think of sun protection as an essential medical treatment for your pigmentation.