Niacinamide: The Molecule That Brings Science and Skin Care Together
Often overshadowed by skincare stars, niacinamide is back in the spotlight. Antioxidant, soothing, sebum-regulating... Its effects have been validated by research, and its clinical uses far exceed marketing promises. Here is a comprehensive overview of this versatile active ingredient.
A vitamin essential for cellular integrity
Niacinamide, or nicotinamide, is a biologically active form of vitamin B3. It plays a fundamental metabolic role in the production of NAD and NADP coenzymes, essential for cellular function.
It is obtained by synthesis from 3-cyanopyridine following a basic hydrolysis process, followed by purification and drying steps. This process produces a water-soluble powder that is stable and easily incorporated into cosmetic formulations.
Mechanisms of action and biological properties
1. Hydration and barrier function
Niacinamide stimulates the synthesis of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which strengthens intercellular cohesion.
Result: the skin retains water better, becomes more resistant to external aggressions, and less prone to dehydration.
2. Pigmentation regulation
It inhibits the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing pigmentation spots without affecting the pigment cells themselves. It is well tolerated, even on sensitive skin.
3. Anti-inflammatory effect
It inhibits the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 or TNF-α. This makes it an excellent ingredient for calming redness, rosacea, and inflammatory acne.
4. Antioxidant and anti-aging properties
A direct precursor of NAD(P), niacinamide protects cells from free radicals and reduces UV-induced DNA damage. It contributes to tissue regeneration and maintains skin elasticity and firmness by stimulating collagen and structural protein synthesis.
5. Regulation of sebum and enlarged pores
Niacinamide regulates sebum production without drying out the skin. It indirectly affects the visible size of pores by normalizing the function of the sebaceous glands.
Areas of dermatological application
- Oily and acne-prone skin : sebum regulation, reduction in proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, reduction in glare
- Dehydrated skin Repairing the hydrolipidic barrier
- Hyperpigmentation : inhibition of melanin transfer
- Photoaging : reduction of cellular oxidative stress
- Redness and rosacea : anti-inflammatory and soothing action
- Dry and sensitive skin : high tolerance, improved skin comfort
Dosage forms and dosage
Niacinamide is found in serums, creams, lotions, and toners. It is effective at concentrations of 2% or higher. The most common formulations range from 5% to 10%, with excellent tolerance. Twice-daily application is often recommended for clinically visible effects in 6 to 12 weeks.
Tolerance and precautions
Niacinamide is generally well tolerated. The rare side effects are temporary: tingling or warming sensations. A localized skin test may be recommended for reactive skin. It is neither photosensitizing nor unstable to light or oxygen.
Synergy with other assets
- Retinoids : reduces irritating effects
- Vitamin C : illuminating complementarity
- Salicylic acid : enhanced effect on imperfections
- Caffeine : eye decongestant
