Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate: What Lies Behind This Ingredient with Amazing Effects
You may already be using this ingredient without knowing it. Found in shower oils, barrier creams, and makeup remover lotions, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate has established itself as a key player in the formulation of modern cosmetic products. But what do we really know about it?
Let's analyze all the facets of this plant-based emulsifier, its properties, its uses, and why it is so popular for sensitive or very dry skin.
What is Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate?
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate is a nonionic emulsifier derived from glycerol and theoleic acid (a fatty acid derived mainly from sunflower oil). It belongs to the family of mild natural surfactants, compatible with so-called “clean” or skin-friendly formulations.
Its structure amphiphile (both hydrophilic and lipophilic) allows it to stabilize mixtures of oil and water—which are otherwise incompatible—by forming homogeneous, long-lasting emulsions that are pleasant to apply.
Role in cosmetic formulations
Emulsion stabilization
One of its main functions is to create stable emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases. It is used in particular in:
- Rich creams (night, barrier, sunscreen)
- Nourishing balms
- Self-emulsifying shower oils
Texture enhancement
It renders the formulations:
- Easier to spread
- Softer to the touch
- Less greasy finish, especially after rinsing
Optimal rinsability
In cleansing oils, it allows the oil to transform into milk upon contact with water. This makes it easier to rinse off and prevents greasy residue, while preserving the hydrolipidic film.
Benefits for the skin: hydration and tolerance
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate also acts as a moisturizing and emollient agent. It helps maintain skin hydration by strengthening its barrier function.
For which skin type?
It is suitable for:
- At dry to very dry skin
- At irritated or sensitive skin
- At mature skin, prone to dehydration
It is generally well tolerated, but a skin test is always recommended for people with sensitive skin.
Industrial and ecological interest
Natural origin
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate is derived from bio-based ingredients (vegetable oil, glycerol), making it a preferred choice in eco-friendly and vegan formulations.
Technical versatility
It can be used for:
- Stabilizing formulas with low water content
- Create anhydrous products (without aqueous phase)
- Incorporate hydrophilic and lipophilic assets in a single phase
