Propolis: the ingredient with multiple benefits!
While honey and royal jelly already take pride of place in many bathroom cabinets, another treasure from the hive is making a spectacular breakthrough: propolis has now established itself as one of the most well-documented dermocosmetic ingredients of the last decade. Its polyphenols neutralize free radicals, while its flavonoids calm inflammation and slow bacterial proliferation. Here's why. propolis deserves a prominent place in a demanding skincare routine.
A rediscovered treasure from the hive
In nature, propolis serves as a sterile sealant: it fills gaps in the hive, prevents the intrusion of microorganisms, and regulates humidity. This protective function is based on a resinous mixture that bees produce by combining plant resins, wax, and salivary enzymes.
A unique chemical composition under the microscope
Several recent studies (chromatographies and spectrometries) contain more than 300 compounds: phenolic acids (caffeic, ferulic), flavonoids (galangin, quercetin), tannins, terpenes, trace elements, and B vitamins. Their synergy neutralizes free radicals and modulates inflammatory pathways (NF-κB and MAPK).
The skin benefits explained
The research identifies four major areas for action:
- Antibacterial and antifungal : active against Cutibacterium acnes and various dermatophytes, propolis slows down microbial colonization and soothes acne breakouts.
- Anti-inflammatory : Flavonoids limit the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, reducing redness and swelling.
- Accelerated healing : Stimulation of fibroblasts, increased collagen I, and control of oxidative stress promote faster tissue repair.
- Long-lasting antioxidant : trapping free radicals, delaying the signs of photoaging.
Three shades, three efficiency profiles
- Brown propolis (Europe) : broad-spectrum antibacterial, ideal for combination to oily skin.
- Green propolis (Brazil) : record concentration in artepillin C, to be preferred for its enhanced antioxidant effect.
- Red propolis (Caribbean) : high content of isoflavones, sought after for its radiance and even complexion.
Instructions for use: dosages and winning combinations
- Concentration : 0.5–2% for daily care; up to 10% in a targeted ointment, under stability control.
- Dosage forms : hydroglycerin extract for dry skin; alcoholic solution for acne-prone skin; microencapsulated powder in creams, serums, masks, or patches.
- Synergies : niacinamide to strengthen the barrier function; ; salicylic acid for a gentle keratolytic effect; ; panthenol for repair.
- Order of application : on clean skin, before applying occlusive textures to optimize the diffusion of polyphenols.
Simple but essential precautions
- Perform a 48-hour skin test on subjects who are atopic or sensitive to bee products.
- Avoid use on deep wounds that have not been disinfected.
- Seek medical advice if you are pregnant or breastfeeding and the application exceeds a limited area.
