A discreet ingredient with powerful effects: what is arginine really worth in cosmetics?
Among the often overlooked but scientifically promising cosmetic ingredients, arginine occupies a special place. Naturally present in the body, it participates in numerous biological processes and is attracting increasing interest from skin and hair care formulators. Why is this amino acid so highly prized today? What are its real benefits, mechanisms of action, limitations, and conditions of use?
Definition and origins of arginine
Arginine, classified as a semi-essential amino acid, is involved in protein synthesis, wound healing, immunity, and vascular regulation. It plays a role as a precursor in the production of nitric oxide (NO), a vasodilator.
It was first isolated in the 19th century from yellow lupine, a herbaceous plant found growing wild in the Mediterranean basin, particularly in Corsica. Since then, it has been extensively studied for its biological functions, mainly in muscle metabolism and immune response.
How is arginine obtained for use in cosmetics?
In cosmetology, arginine is generally obtained through microbial fermentation of plant sugars. Bacteria such as Corynebacterium glutamicum or Escherichia coli are cultivated in an environment rich in glucose and nitrogen, before the arginine is extracted, purified, and then crystallized.
This biotechnological process produces highly pure arginine that is fully compatible with cosmetic formulation standards.
Its cosmetic properties
1. Strengthening the skin barrier
Arginine stimulates collagen and elastin production, improving skin suppleness and elasticity. Although the mechanisms are still being studied, some research suggests a beneficial effect on dermal structure, particularly via l‘nitric oxide.
2. Potential antioxidant
When taken orally, arginine increases levels of glutathione, a powerful antioxidant. This action helps neutralize free radicals, which are responsible for premature skin aging. The topical effects still need to be better established.
3. Accelerated healing
Arginine participates in the various phases of skin healing: inflammation, cell proliferation, tissue remodeling. It supports angiogenesis (formation of new blood vessels) and regeneration of epithelial cells.
Arginine and hair
Used in hair care, arginine promotes:
- The lengthening of the anagen (growth) phase
- Stimulation of microcirculation around the follicles
- Protection against the effects of dihydroxytestosterone (DHT), a hormone associated with hair loss
Studies also suggest a role in increasing the activity of the factor. VEGF, involved in the oxygenation of hair bulbs.
Arginine in dental care
Arginine is naturally present in saliva and plays an essential role in oral health by regulating pH, limiting the formation of cavities and bacterial biofilm, and reducing tooth sensitivity. Combined with compounds such as calcium carbonate and fluoride salts, it enhances enamel remineralization, making it an essential ingredient in dental hygiene products.
pH stabilization
Arginine, due to its basic pH, is used to balance the acidity of cosmetic formulations, particularly those containing sensitive polymers. It is also valued for its lack of odor and its compatibility with a wide range of active ingredients.
Safety and precautions for use
Arginine is recognized as safe for use on the skin. It has no known allergenic potential and is not subject to any concentration restrictions under current European regulations. It is well tolerated, even by sensitive skin, pregnant women, and children.
However, oral arginine supplementation (dietary supplements) may not be recommended in certain medical cases (history of cardiovascular disease, asthma, liver cirrhosis).
