Vitamin E: The Hidden Secret to Radiant Skin
Essential to the body but not produced by it, vitamin E is now ubiquitous in cosmetic formulas, from antioxidant serums to repair treatments for damaged hair. However, its action goes far beyond its simple role as an “anti-aging” ingredient. Antioxidant, healing, moisturizing, photoprotective... vitamin E is a true dermatological Swiss Army knife.
What is vitamin E?
Vitamin E actually refers to a group of eight fat-soluble compounds: four tocopherols (α, β, γ, δ) and four tocotrienols. It is mainly the’α-tocopherol, both the most stable and biologically active, which is used in cosmetics. Soluble in fatty substances, it is naturally stored in the sebaceous glands and diffused to the skin's surface via sebum.
Origins and manufacturing processes
1. Plant extraction
The most common method involves extracting vitamin E from vegetable oils rich in tocopherols, such as sunflower oil, soybean oil or wheat germ. After solvent extraction (often hexane), the molecule is purified in order to obtain optimal concentrations for topical use.
2. Synthesis in the laboratory
The synthetic version is based on the transformation of natural precursors (such as hydroquinone) into tocopherol through complex chemical reactions. This allows very pure forms to be produced, although this method is more expensive.
Key features
● Antioxidant Vitamin E neutralizes free radicals, unstable molecules responsible for premature aging, by preventing lipid peroxidation of cell membranes and sebum.
● Anti-inflammatory It inhibits pro-inflammatory pathways, reducing redness, irritation, and other skin sensitivities.
● Healing By stimulating microcirculation, it promotes tissue regeneration and repair of skin lesions.
● Depigmenting : By inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, it reduces pigmentation spots and evens out the complexion.
● Moisturizing : It forms a protective film on the surface of the epidermis, limiting water loss and strengthening the skin barrier.
● Photoprotective : Without replacing sunscreen, it reduces the harmful effects of UVB rays by limiting damage caused by oxidative stress.
Cosmetic uses and directions main
Vitamin E can be incorporated into many different formulations, including balms, oils, creams, sprays, serums, and shampoos, for:
- Dry, mature, dull, sensitive, or blemish-prone skin
- Dry, brittle, devitalized hair or hair prone to falling out
- Sensitive or irritated scalp
Particular interest for oily skin
Although fat-soluble, vitamin E does not stimulate sebum production. On the contrary, it protects its compounds (particularly squalene) oxidation, thereby preventing the formation of comedogenic and inflammatory substances. It can therefore be beneficial in the treatment of oily and acne-prone skin.
Combination with other assets
- Vitamin C : regenerates vitamin E activity, boosting its antioxidant power.
- Vitamin A (retinol) : improves the stability and anti-aging effectiveness of both compounds.
- Selenium and Coenzyme Q10 : complementary action in inflammatory conditions such as psoriasis.
- Zinc : an interesting synergy for oily, acne-prone skin.
How secure is the job?
Used in cosmetics at concentrations below 0.51% w/w, vitamin E is well tolerated by all skin types. Irritation reactions are possible at high doses (>0.51% w/w), especially in reactive or allergic skin. A skin test is recommended prior to use.
