Sugar, the unexpected ally in your beauty routine
Often criticized for its harmful effects on health when consumed in excess, sugar yet reveals surprising virtues when used in cosmetics. Moisturizing, exfoliating, protective... This natural ingredient has found its way into our beauty care products, greatly benefiting our skin. Let's dive into the sweet world of cosmetics to discover how sugar can become a valuable ally in our beauty routine.
Understanding sugars
The sugars used in cosmetics are much more varied than simple food-grade sucrose. They are extracted from plant sources such as sugar cane, sugar beet, corn, or certain trees and fruits. They appear in ingredient lists under names ending in -ose (glucose, fructose, ribose, rhamnose) or -ol (xylitol, sorbitol).
These molecules have many roles depending on their structure and molecular weight, ranging from hydration to cell repair.
Powerful moisturizing agents
Thanks to their chemical structure rich in groups hydroxyls, Sugars act as humectants. This means that they draw water from the environment or the deeper layers of the skin to the stratum corneum. The result is more supple skin that is less prone to tightness and better protected against dehydration.
Certain sugars such as xylitol or sorbitol are even capable of stimulating the production of skin lipids (ceramides), thereby strengthening the natural skin barrier.
Gentle, biodegradable exfoliation
Granulated sugar is widely used in mechanical scrubs for the face and body. It gently exfoliates without irritating, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. Another major advantage is its solubility in water, which prevents any abrasive residue from remaining on the skin or in the environment.
Unlike some mineral-based exfoliants, sugar granules are biodegradable and environmentally friendly.
Anti-aging and energizing properties
More specific sugars, such as ribose or the rhamnose, offer targeted benefits against skin aging. Ribose stimulates cellular metabolism, boosts energy production (ATP), and slows down the formation of wrinkles. Rhamnose, derived from tropical plants, is known for its action on fibroblasts and collagen production. It works deep down to improve skin firmness and elasticity.
Valuable galenic and sensory functions
Sugars are not only active ingredients, they also contribute to the texture of skincare products. sucroesters, obtained by reacting sugars and fatty acids, are natural emulsifiers widely used to create so-called «transformable» textures (gel-to-oil, oil-to-milk).
They make skincare products pleasant to apply, easier to rinse off, and compatible with natural formulas.
Protection, repair, and shielding effect
Visit trehalose, also known as «resurrection sugar,» is one of the most studied sugars in advanced cosmetics. Found naturally in certain plants and insects, it protects their cells against extreme conditions (drought, heat, UV rays). In skin care, it acts as:
- antioxidant against free radicals,
- stabilizing agent cell membranes,
- autophagy activator, a natural cell repair mechanism.
Recent studies also show its benefits for wound healing by stimulating keratinocyte growth factors.
And what about honey in all this?
Although it is not pure sugar, honey naturally contains fructose, glucose, enzymes, minerals, and vitamins. It is moisturizing, healing, detoxifying, and antioxidant, making it a key ingredient in repairing and soothing skincare products.
Sugar: friend or foe to your skin?
It is important to distinguish between the effects of sugar ingested and those of sugar applied locally. A diet that is too high in sugar can accelerate skin aging by glycation, damaging collagen. However, when used in cosmetics, sugar is safe, effective, and well tolerated, even by sensitive skin.
Concentrations in cosmetic products are generally between 2 and 5 %, which is sufficient to achieve visible effects without posing any danger.
