What is KOJIC ACID and what does it do?

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Kojic acid was first discovered in Japan in 1907, during the fermentation of rice wine, known as sake. This natural ingredient is a by-product of mushroom fermentation. In skincare, it is mainly used to help reduce dark spots and even out skin color.

Key points

Kojic acid is an antioxidant and skin-lightening agent
Helps reduce hyperpigmentation, dark spots and acne scars
It also has antimicrobial and antifungal properties that can help acne sufferers.

Here are the main benefits of kojic acid:
Brightens skin and evens skin tone
Can reduce the effects of hyperpigmentation
Provides "anti-aging" benefits by evening out skin tone
Antimicrobial and antifungal properties to fight certain skin infections
Kojic acid acts by blocking and inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme required for melanin production. This blocks the hyperpigmentation that can result from skin pigmentation.

However, it is important to note that kojic acid should not be used at concentrations higher than 1 %, as this can cause contact dermatitis and skin irritation. It is preferable to use it at a concentration of 1 % or less, possibly mixed with other ingredients.

Among the ingredients that work well with kojic acid is glycolic acid, an AHA that is highly effective at exfoliating the skin. However, this mixture should not be used too often, as it may lead to excessive exfoliation.

A major drawback of kojic acid is its instability in cosmetic formulations. Exposed to air or sunlight, it turns brown and loses its effectiveness.

To get around this problem, many cosmetics companies use kojic dipalmitate, a more stable alternative. However, there is no research confirming that kojic dipalmitate is as effective as kojic acid for skin lightening, although it is a good antioxidant.

Find out more about "Inci" cosmetic ingredients