Are all preservatives in your cosmetics dangerous?
Preservatives are ubiquitous in cosmetic products, ensuring their stability and safety. However, their nature, how they work, and emerging alternatives often remain unknown to the general public. Let's dive into the heart of these essential substances to better understand their role and current innovations.
What is a Cosmetic Preservative?
A preservative is a substance added to cosmetic formulas to prevent the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi, and yeasts, which can not only alter the appearance and smell of products, but also cause skin reactions, infections, or allergies.
Why are preservatives essential in water-based skincare products?
Water is an ideal environment for microbial growth. However, most cosmetics contain water: creams, lotions, cleansing gels, etc. Without preservatives, these products would quickly become unstable and potentially dangerous. Preservatives therefore guarantee consumer safety throughout the product's shelf life.
The Different Types of Preservatives
Synthetic Preservatives
These preservatives are chemically produced and are widely used for their effectiveness at low concentrations and their broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity. Among them are:
- Parabens : (methylparaben, butylparaben)
- Phenoxyethanol : A commonly used glycol ether
- Formaldehyde: (called formaldehyde in its liquid form)
Although their effectiveness is recognized, some of these preservatives have raised concerns about their safety, leading to strict regulations on their use.
Natural Preservatives
Derived from natural sources, these preservatives are often preferred in organic formulations. The main ones include:
- Benzoic acid and its salts Used for their antimicrobial properties, they are found in certain plants (cinnamon).
- Benzyl alcohol Naturally present in certain fruits and teas.
- Sorbic acid : Derived from the fruit of the rowan tree, effective against mold and yeast.
These preservatives are generally well tolerated, but their effectiveness may vary depending on the product formulation.
Preservative agents (not listed)
Certain substances are not considered preservatives in the regulatory sense, but they contribute to stability:
- Fermented radish extract (Leuconostoc)
- Lactobacillus cultures
- Propolis
- Vitamin E (antioxidant, but not antimicrobial)
Alternatives to Traditional Preservatives
In response to concerns about certain preservatives, the cosmetics industry is exploring innovative alternatives:
Anhydrous (water-free) formulations
Water-free products, such as oils or balms, do not provide a favorable environment for microbial growth, eliminating the need for preservatives. However, they can present challenges in terms of texture and application.
Airless Technology
Packaging airless prevent air and contaminants from entering, reducing the risk of microbial contamination. This technology extends product shelf life while minimizing or eliminating the need for preservatives.
UHT sterilization
Inspired by the food industry, the UHT sterilization (Ultra High Temperature) involves briefly heating the product to high temperatures to eliminate microorganisms, allowing it to be preserved without the addition of preservatives.
Regulations and Safety
The use of preservatives is strictly regulated by European legislation. Annex V of European Regulation (No. 1223/2009) lists the 59 authorized preservatives, their maximum concentrations, and any restrictions. This regulation aims to ensure consumer safety while allowing for innovation in the cosmetics industry.
