Demystifying esterified oils: Are they dangerous?
In the world of cosmetics, esterified oils are often the subject of much discussion. Are these oils, generally derived from coconut oil, really beneficial for our skin and hair? Let's find out together what esterified oils really are, and demystify certain preconceived ideas about them.
Origin and manufacture
Esterified oils come mainly from the caprylic acid found in coconut oil, and not from palm oil as might be expected. This preference for coconut oil is explained by its higher yield and ease of use in the esterification process.
It's important to note that these oils are not extracted directly from the seeds or pulp, but are the result of a chemical process called esterification. This process makes it possible to create new ingredients with enhanced properties, by specifically selecting and combining certain parts of coconut oil.
List of esterified oils:
OLEYL LINOLEATE
COCONUT ALKANES
ISOAMYL LAURATE
COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE
DICAPRYLYL ETHER
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
OCTYLDODECANOL
COCO-CAPRYLATE
DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE
Features and applications
Esterified oils are characterized by their fluidity, lightness and superior penetration capacity compared to pure vegetable oils. They are also characterized by their spreading speed, which can vary considerably from one oil to another.
These oils are commonly used in so-called "dry oil" products, offering a velvety, non-greasy finish, unlike pure vegetable oils. They are also effective emollients, softening skin and hair, and can be used as solvents for certain fat-soluble active ingredients.
An enriched sensory experience
One of the major advantages of using emollients obtained by esterification is the significant improvement in the sensoriality of cosmetic products. These emollients offer a wide range of sensations, enabling the creation of varied textures in synergy with vegetable oils. They facilitate not only the spreading of products, but also their penetration into the skin, a property that vegetable oils alone struggle to offer.
It's important to stress that these emollients are not intended to replace vegetable oils, but to work in concert with them to deliver an optimized user experience. In conventional cosmetics, this variety of textures is generally achieved through the use of silicones and mineral oils, components derived from petroleum.
Safety and respect for the environment
Emollients obtained by esterification, when developed according to the principles of green chemistry, present an advantageous safety and ecological profile. Not only are they harmless to the consumer, they are also biodegradable, reducing their environmental impact.
A nuanced stability
Although some people argue that emollients obtained by esterification are more stable, the reality is more nuanced. In fact, the stability of these emollients can vary considerably, with some being less stable than traditional vegetable oils.
Ecological impact and safety
Contrary to popular belief, esterified oils have an excellent ecological profile. They are biodegradable and their production is non-polluting. What's more, most are non-occlusive, non-comedogenic, non-irritant and non-toxic, guaranteeing safe, environmentally-friendly use.
Comparison with pure vegetable oils
Although esterified oils offer many advantages, the question of their use in comparison with pure vegetable oils remains a matter of debate. Some voices are calling for their use to be restricted to preserve the place of pure vegetable oils, fearing complete substitution.
It's true that pure vegetable oils have nutrients and properties that esterified oils do not. However, it's essential to understand that these two types of oils have different roles and can coexist harmoniously in the world of cosmetics, each bringing its own benefits.
To conclude!
Esterified oils, although less nutrient-rich than pure vegetable oils, have their place in the cosmetics industry thanks to their unique properties. They are not intended to completely replace vegetable oilsbut to offer an alternative with different characteristics.
At the end of the day, a conscientious formulator will know how to get the best out of each type of oil, creating products that meet the needs of the most demanding customers. specific needs of each individual while preserving the environment.
