The reputation of the Eneomey laboratory, consumer reviews and the use of their products on my patients, prompted me to analyze their professional facials and superficial peels. Created by Audrey Talayrach, exfoliation, correction of skin blemishes and treatment of the effects of photoaging are the watchwords of their skincare protocol. A company on a human scale, their teams develop powerful, well-dosed formulas that respect a woman's appearance and natural expressions. Their cosmetics line also takes care of your skin's overall beauty. Focused on the cellular dynamism of your epidermis, their formulas maintain hydration, radiance and anti-aging prevention. Which products caught my eye? Are their consumer cosmetics as effective as their professional peels?
Here's a quick review of Eneomey products, with my opinion on their formulations and claims.
Eneomey Daylight C20 is an anti-aging day care for skin lacking radiance and with irregular texture. It preserves the integrity of your dermal and epidermal tissues, protecting them from oxidative stress. Its fluid texture, subtly worked between serum and milk, integrates :
20 % ascorbosilane (vitamin C derivative), a retinol ester complex and 6 % glycolic acid to reduce spots, enhance radiance and even skin tone;
vitamin E with strong antioxidant power;
amino acids, humectants and emollients to keep your skin moisturized;
shea butter, cholesterol to support the lipid barrier.
It is suitable for all skin types, but people suffering from dry skin will need to supplement their skincare with a richer sun cream.
This Eneomey product provides radiance, an even complexion and protection against free radicals. Consumer reviews recognize its effectiveness, despite its rather high price: 54 euros for a 30 ml pump bottle.
The Eneomey Stim renew collection consists of three anti-aging night care products that stimulate cell regeneration thanks to glycolic acid. According to several scientific studies, this molecule is capable of :
act on the extracellular matrix and increase the expression of type 1 collagen and hyaluronic acid genes to mitigate damage caused by photoaging;
fight free radicals thanks to its antioxidant power;
moisturize ;
reduce the appearance of blemishes by modulating melanin overproduction and boosting superficial cellular desquamation (which dissolves pigment clusters).
Stim renew 8, ideal for beginners to fruit acids, gently targets uneven skin texture and small brown spots or acne scars. Concentrated with 8 % glycolic acid and 2 % phytic acid, the emulsion brightens and evens skin tone while smoothing out the first fine lines.
For more pronounced wrinkles and more brown spots, try Stim renew 15. Consumer reviews describe excellent results: unified complexion, overall improvement in skin texture thanks to the keratolytic action of fruit acid. As you use it, your skin looks plumper and firmer. This emulsion is highly sensorial, with a high concentration of glycolic acid: 15 %. Price: 48 euros per 50 ml jar.
Stim renew 30, recommended by dermatologists, features one of the highest concentrations of glycolic acid on the cosmetics market, namely 30 %. Recommended for senescent skin aged 55 and over, this molecule acts as a real boost to cell renewal. It reveals healthier, younger keratinocytes on the skin's surface. By stimulating cellular desquamation, it breaks down hyperpigmented areas of the skin, making it more even-toned. This high concentration of alpha hydroxy acid boosts your production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Facial contours are redefined, tissues are redensified. The molecule improves epidermal hydration. The vitamin C derivative ascorbosilane, dosed at 5 %, reveals a more luminous, radiant complexion. The formulation is composed of fatty substances and film-forming agents, so I recommend it for normal to dry skin. A highly concentrated composition that comes at a price: 52 euros 90 for a 50 ml jar.
Remarques :
With this type of cream, I recommend massaging well to improve penetration of the product and its active ingredients. It's quite common to feel a slight tingling sensation on application.
Warning! I do not recommend these three skincare products for sensitive, allergic and damaged skin, as glycolic acid will aggravate the deterioration of the skin barrier.
Eneomey Purify Gel offers an excellent combination of active ingredients to control the appearance of imperfections.
The watery, translucent texture is rapidly absorbed by your skin. It contains 4 ingredients much appreciated by combination, oily and acne-prone skin.
15 % glycolic acid + 1 % salicylic acid to clear pores of dead cells and excess oil, while regulating sebum production.
Azelaic acid 0.3 % acts as a keratolytic and antimicrobial. This substance modulates sebum production and the development of acne-causing bacteria.
It contains a large quantity of alcohol, but this time its drying properties are better suited to shiny skin. The 30-ml airless bottle costs 29 euros.
Rejuv Elixium and Rejuv Silk
The brand has developed two products: Réjuv Elixium serum and Rejuv Silk cream. They feature the plant-based active ingredient "Time Cell" and a complex of antioxidants which, according to Eneomey's claims, are capable of stimulating the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The inci list includes several botanical ingredients, including biacalin, pomegranate and cranberry extract. These three plants have been the subject of scientific studies breaking down their richness in powerful antioxidants such as flavonoids, anthocyanins and phenolic compounds. These skin care products are therefore real bulwarks against oxidative stress and prevent damage to your skin cells. On the other hand, I'm not convinced about their ability to boost the production of cell matrix fibers. The formulas remain well-designed, with a fine balance of humectants, emollients and film-forming agents. These include squalane, hyaluronic acid and shea butter. It will comfort and moisturize normal to dry skin.
Expect to pay 62 euros 40 for a 50 ml jar and 49 euros 20 for a 15 ml serum.
Formerly known as Mene and Moy, the Eneomey laboratory specializes in superficial peeling. This technique exfoliates your skin in depth, but does not reach the dermis, unlike the Dermaceutic brand's medium peel. It must nevertheless be carried out by a dermatologist or aesthetic medicine expert. This treatment is applied progressively in several sessions, generally 4, spaced two weeks apart. Ideally, these sessions are carried out between November and March, to avoid exposure to the sun.
Three types of Eneomey professional peel caught my attention.
Lumilight peel is designed to treat pigmentary anomalies such as pregnancy mask or lentigos (clusters of melanin forming a small brown spot). Its formula contains glycolic acid, phytic acid and mandelic acid.
Réjuv Peel fights photo-aging such as keratosis (light-brown or reddish scaly or crusty lesions) and hyperpigmented areas. Glycolic acid, retinol and ferulic acid accelerate desquamation and cell renewal, while boosting the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Purify Peel is designed for acne-prone skin, hyperseborrhea, acne retention and scars. Its glycolic and salicylic acid duo regulates the sebaceous gland, refines skin texture and unclogs pores.
The star active ingredients in their compositions are exfoliants, and glycolic acid in particular. Eneomey provides genuine dermatological solutions to the problems of hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and photoaging. They use proven ingredients and concentrations. I therefore endorse all their glycolic, phytic and mandelic acid-based cosmetics.
On the other hand, I was expecting to discover pure retinol-based skincare in their at-home facial protocol, just like the professional Eneomey Réjuv Peel treatment. But this is not the case. Yet this molecule is a must-have in anti-aging routines. The Beauty Decoded community will understand my astonishment at this absence.
Formulas based on vitamin C derivatives are highly concentrated and offer beautiful textures, but I haven't found any skincare products based on pure ascorbic acid, which I think is more effective.
It only offers one sunscreen, and unfortunately it contains methoxycinnamate. According to some studies, this filter is an endocrine disruptor.
Lastly, I note the presence of fragrances in most of their inci lists. I would therefore advise sensitive and allergic skins not to use Enomey skincare products on a daily basis. However, my overall opinion remains positive, as some of their highly-dosed formulas, such as Stim renew 30, can become essential to an anti-spot or anti-aging beauty routine. Such a high percentage of glycolic acid is rare on the beauty market.
Whether aimed at professionals or the general public, the brand has chosen to focus on a small catalog of around twenty face and body care products. Their four professional skincare products offer a fine synergy of active ingredients that act on the epidermis. Their dosage ensures visible skin results. As far as skincare is concerned, I must confess to being on my guard. I was expecting at least a treatment with pure vitamin C, retinol and, why not, a formula with tranexamic acid. This absence in no way detracts from the effectiveness of their skincare products. Let me know in the comments if you too have tested their dermatological cosmetics, or if you're interested in a Dermaceutic vs Eneomey duel.
Sources
Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin - PubMed (nih.gov)
The effect of glycolic acid on photoaged albino hairless mouse skin - PubMed (nih.gov)