Brand reviews - BeautyDecoded analysis
Acnemy.

Opinions Acnemy - Doctor's analysis and BeautyDecoders' opinion.

Acnemy is a Spanish cosmetics brand launched in Barcelona in 2020 by NicheBeautyLab, an independent laboratory that also produces Theramid. The first mono-pathological acne brand analyzed by the BeautyDecoded project, with exhaustive coverage of the acne pathway via Nichosome® liposomal technology and the proprietary Quora Noni® PRCF extract. Nineteen references analyzed with 1 cumulative user review.

Author Dr Sylvain David
Expertise Independent cosmetic analysis
Products analyzed 19 INCI references
Compiled opinions 1 return BeautyDecoded
19
Acne single-pathology referrals - exhaustive coverage pathway
44,5
Average imperfections - one of the highest observed on this criterion
+0,50
Adapazit - best catalog tolerance, NO irritants
5/5
Zitclean Purifying Cleanser - single BD review, tri-action 76.5

Analyze an Acnemy product on your skin profile.

The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis - particularly useful for arbitrating between the 19 Acnemy references according to your acne type (retentional, inflammatory, post-acne), to objectively verify the actual composition of Adapazit serum (which does not evoke medical adapalene despite the naming), and to contextualize the unfavorable algorithmic score of Zitaid HOCl in relation to its actual clinical use in dermatology. Important: in the case of moderate to severe, cystic or nodular acne, dermatological consultation remains the priority before cosmetic self-prescription.

Application available on iOS and Android

A consistent single-path acne brand - same laboratory as Theramid, shared formulation philosophy.

Acnemy is a Spanish cosmetics brand launched in Barcelona in 2020 by NicheBeautyLab - an independent laboratory also known for the Theramid brand (clinical premium serums). Acnemy is explicitly positioned as a mono-pathology acne/blemish brand, A complete range of products covering the various stages of cosmetic treatment: prevention, control of outbreaks, local treatment of active pimples, post-pimple soothing, and appropriate photoprotection. Distribution mainly through Spanish pharmacies, European online parapharmacists and selected French retailers.. The central differentiator is Nichosome® technology - NicheBeautyLab's patented liposomal delivery system. According to the brand, this galenic formulation delivers up to 12 times more active ingredients to the skin, while reducing irritation through gradual release.. The second differentiating active ingredient is Quora Noni® PRCF (Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate) - patented noni cell culture extract, claimed to be anti-inflammatory and regulate acne inflammation. Concentrations are communicated by the brand on the Zitcontrol : 3 % Quora Noni + 5 % liposomal salicylic acid + 0.035 % Ceramide NP - transparent communication of concentrations on key formulations, rare in the anti-acne cosmetics segment. Average score for sensitive skin: -1.85 (median -0.70) - moderate tolerance profile, consistent with a brand focused on anti-acne active ingredients. Average imperfections score: 44.5 - one of the highest observed on this criterion among the marques analyzed.

01

An acne-focused pharma-grade formulation strategy

An INCI examination of the 19 references reveals a coherent, serious formulation strategy : Acnemy systematically uses active ingredients documented in acne dermatology, and combines them with a cocktail of barrier support + soothing ingredients in each formulation.. Recurring elements identified in the catalog : salicylic acid (BHA) present in 12 out of 19 references - the benchmark anti-acne active ingredient in cosmetology (Tang & Yang 2018); ; niacinamide in 8 references - documented for 4 mechanisms (sebum regulation, barrier reinforcement, post-inflammatory anti-pigmentation, anti-inflammatory) according to Draelos 2005; ; Quora Noni® PRCF (Morinda Citrifolia) in 6 references - proprietary extract to be understood as an adjuvant complex rather than an anti-acne active ingredient equivalent to documented clinical references (independent documentation remains limited); ; Ceramide NP by name in several key formulations (Zitcontrol, Postzit, Zitpeel, Zitclean). a rare plus point in the anti-acne cosmetics segment which usually favors non-barrier drying active ingredients (a philosophy shared with Theramid); ; Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate water-soluble azelaic acid derivative in Zitclean and Postzit ; glycolic acid (AHA) in Postzit, Zitpeel, Zitback for the treatment of post-acne marques.

02

Nichosome® technology and a largely fragrance-free catalog

Acnemy systematically communicates its Nichosome® liposomal delivery technology : a system of phospholipid vesicles (phosphatidylcholine + hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine + cholesterol, visible in the INCI of Zitcontrol, Postzit, Zitpeel, Zitclean formulations) that encapsulate active ingredients for gradual release. The marketing claim «12 times more assets transported» and «no irritation» is a proprietary assertion not verifiable by independent clinical publication at the time of writing.. However, the effective presence of phospholipids in high INCI positions confirms the physical existence of the liposomal system - this technology is consistent with pharmaceutical literature on the sustained release of skin active ingredients (Pierre & Costa 2011). It is a formulatory system to be recognized as serious, without being able to independently confirm the quantitative performance claimed.. INCI examination confirms a favorable formulatory feature : almost all Acnemy references are fragrance-free. This is an important point to recognize - the acne-prone skin is often reactive due to successive drying treatments and chronic micro-inflammations. Fragrance-free formula reduces the risk of further skin sensitization, Unlike other anti-acne marquess in the segment, which add marketing fragrances. The average tolerance profile (-1.85) remains unfavorable, mainly due to concentrated assets (salicylic acid, glycolic acid, sulfur, hypochlorous acid) rather than fragrance.

Editorial reading

Acnemy is the first mono-pathological acne brand analyzed by the BeautyDecoded project, and probably the most exhaustive coverage of the acne pathway observed to date: daily routine, local treatment, post-acne, medicalized hydrocolloid patches, dedicated photoprotection, body care, HOCl disinfection. It's the expression of the NicheBeautyLab philosophy - a Spanish laboratory which also produces Theramid - applied to the mono-segment.

This philosophy is reflected in the rigor of our formulas: documented active ingredients (liposomated salicylic 5 %, niacinamide, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, glycolic), concentrations communicated on key formulations (rare in the anti-acne segment), systematic presence of Ceramide NP for barrier support, patented liposomal Nichosome® technology, largely fragrance-free catalog.

One point of claim/INCI consistency deserves an editorial note: the Adapazit serum is reminiscent of the medical retinoid adapalene (Differin®), but an INCI check confirms the absence of adapalene - it's actually a mild cosmetic serum (SAP + madecassoside + bisabolol), paradoxically the most tolerant in the catalog (+0.5 sensitive, no irritants). INCI verification recommended before purchase.

For mild-to-moderate acne patients looking for a complete, active-focused routine at an affordable price: probably one of the best-structured marquess on the BD panel. For severe, cystic or nodular acne: priority dermatological consultation with prescribed medical treatments, Acnemy as a cosmetic complement.

A mainly algorithmic analysis - 19 INCI references with 1 user review.

Acnemy analysis presents a methodological specificity to be honestly pointed out. The BeautyDecoded database contains 19 algorithmically analyzed Acnemy references with 1 registered user review (Zitclean Purifying Cleanser, 5/5) - modest statistical base on user feedback, given the breadth of the catalog.

📊
This analysis is therefore based primarily on two objective sources : BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores (based on analysis of complete INCI lists and weighting by skin profile according to 80 skin types) and detailed examination of INCI compositions. The discrepancy between the number of references analyzed (19) and the number of user reviews (1) reflects Acnemy's pharma-grade niche positioning. - distribution mainly through Spanish pharmacies and European online parapharmacies, less represented in the historical BD user base. Methodological consequences : (1) the strengths of this analysis - complete objective mapping of the 19 references, identification of the formulating philosophy shared with Theramid (systematic ceramides + concentration transparency), point of coherence claim/INCI Adapazit, contextualization of Zitaid HOCl whose unfavorable algorithmic score merits clinical nuance; (2) the limits - l’single user review (Zitclean 5/5) does not constitute a statistically robust validation. For the consumer use this analysis as a indicative formulatory mapping, and To be completed by a mandatory 48-hour patch test before adoption on reactive skin.

The eight ranges in the Acnemy catalog - comprehensive coverage of acne treatment.

The catalog analyzed includes 19 references divided into 8 thematic ranges covering the entire cosmetic acne pathway: 8 cleansers/local treatments, 7 serums, 2 lotions, 1 cream, 1 sunscreen.

range Indication Product highlights
Daily routine Acne maintenance, prevention Zitclean (cleanser), Zitcontrol (serum), Zitcontrol SPF50
Local treatment Active spot buttons Dryzit (two-phase lotion), Zitless (serum for internal pimples), ZITPROOF® patches
Post-acne / marques Scars, post-inflammatory spots Postzit (serum), Zitpeel (multi-acid peel)
Zitcalm (soothing) Irritative phase, recovery Zitcalm Cleanser, Zitcalm Serum, Zitcalm Cream
Adapazit Radiance + soothing serum (SAP + centella) Adapazit (serum, claim demystified - no adapalene)
Body care Acne back, décolleté Zitback (body serum), Zitbody (body serum)
Medical disinfection Topical antimicrobial Zitaid (HOCl hypochlorous acid lotion)
Mask Weekly deep action Zitmask (sulfur + salicylic + kaolin)

The «Adapazit» serum - evocative name adapalene, but gentle cosmetic composition.

A worthy catalog reference editorial reporting on the claim/INCI consistency criterion. The Adapazit serum is named after the medical retinoid adapalene. (Differin®, prescribed medical treatment for acne).

⚠️
Adapazit does NOT contain adapalene - INCI check recommended before purchase. INCI examination reveals that this formulation does not actually contain adapalene - it is a gentle cosmetic formulation centered on Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (stable vitamin C derivative) in 2nd INCI position + Madecassoside (isolated centella) + bisabolol (anti-inflammatory). For consumers looking for a medical retinoid such as adapalene, the product will not meet their expectations. - a dermatological consultation is required to obtain a prescription. For a consumer looking for a gentle cosmetic anti-inflammatory radiance serum, the formulation is coherent and even remarkable. : sensitive skin score +0.50 (the highest in the Acnemy catalog), no irritants detected - favorable point rare in the catalog. This claim/INCI consistency point is worth checking by the consumer before purchase.. This is a case comparable to the editorial alerts already documented in the BeautyDecoded project. Collageneer« Cosmia (trade name without real INCI peptide), »Retin-ALT« Ole Henriksen (AHA presented as an alternative to retinol without real alternative bakuchiol). This practice of evocative naming is legal as long as no specific active ingredient is falsely claimed in the composition., but it editorial merit to calibrate consumer expectations.

Zitaid with hypochlorous acid - a medical formulation whose raw score needs to be qualified.

A worthy catalog reference honest clinical contextualization. The Zitaid has the worst sensitive skin score in the catalog (-9.00) - algorithmic result that does not reflect the reality of dermatological use.

🧪
Zitaid is a specific medical formulation whose raw algorithmic reading needs to be nuanced by the context of use. INCI examination reveals a minimalist formulation with just 3 ingredients : Aqua + Hypochlorous Acid (HOCl) + Sodium Chloride. A stabilized hypochlorous acid solution - a medical formulation documented for its targeted antimicrobial action against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus (Block & Rowan 2020), commonly used in dermatology for acne-prone and inflammatory skin. Hypochlorous acid is a physiological molecule naturally produced by human neutrophils during the immune response. - documented tolerance in real-life clinical use (eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, post-surgical healing). The unfavorable algorithmic score (-9.00) reflects the classification of HOCl as an active molecule with no associated soothing support., but the formulation remains pharmacologically consistent and well-tolerated in actual medical use. This is a case where the crude algorithmic reading must be qualified by clinical nuance.. Appropriate use Targeted spray 2-3 times a day on inflamed acne-prone areas, but not as a routine treatment for the whole face. For patients with active inflammatory acne, the benefit/risk ratio is generally favorable.. Cross-sectional comparison CLn BodyWash, Briotech HOCl - Acnemy offers the right formulation at an affordable price.

Mapping the 19 references - compatibility by profile and acne stage.

Objective mapping of 19 Acnemy references through the BeautyDecoded grid by skin profile and acne stage.

Profile / stage Score Algorithmic reading
Mild to moderate acneTargetOPTIMAL PROFILE - Zitclean + Zitcontrol + Zitcontrol SPF50 daily routine
Oily skin / imperfectionsExcellentZitcontrol (76.5 imperf), Zitclean (76.5 + 76.5 redness), Zitpeel (76.5)
Sensitive acne-prone skinVariableAdapazit (+0.5), Zitcalm range (0.0 and -0.25), ZITPROOF® (0.0)
Post-acne marks / scarsVery goodPostzit (spots 68.0), Zitpeel (spots 76.5), Adapazit (spots 76.5)
Body acne (back, décolleté)AdaptedZitback (body, stains 76.5), Zitbody (salicylic body)
Severe inflammatory acneCompleteZitaid (antimicrobial HOCl), Zitmask, Dryzit for local treatment - priority dermatological consultation
Rosacea / non-acne reactive skinNo targetNon rosacea-oriented mark - prefer AZID Theramid or Azelaic 12% TIRTIR

Acnemy's flagship references, at a glance.

Sorted by decreasingly sensitive skin score. Adapazit (+0.50) top of the catalog with NO irritants detected. Zitclean (5/5 of 1 BD reviews) - tri-action 76.5 on three axes. Zitcontrol Serum - signature with communicated concentrations.

Product Indication Sensitive skin Key score
AdapazitRadiance serum+0,50TOP tolerance - Anti-ageing 66.3 + Spots 76.5 - NO irritants
ZITPROOF® Spot / Nose / MultizitsHydrocolloid patches0,00Local button action - 3 medicalized anatomical sizes
Zitcalm CleanserSoothing cleanser0,00Redness 59.5 - irritative phase
Zitcalm SerumSoothing serum0,00Anti-aging 50.2 - Zinc + glycyrrhiza
Zitcalm CreamSoothing cream-0,25Redness 34.0 - post-treatment hydration
Zitclean Purifying CleanserDaily cleanser (5/5 of 1 BD review)-0,50TRI-ACTION 76.5 × 3 (Imperf + Rouge + Taches)
ZitbodyAcne body-0,50Salicylic body
Zitcontrol SerumSignature daily serum-0,70Imperf 76.5 - 5 % AS liposome + 3 % Quora Noni + Ceramide NP
PostzitPost-acne / scars-1,20Spots 68.0 + Imperf 76.5 - azelaic + glycolic + niacinamide
Zitcontrol SPF50Acne-specific suncare-1,35Imperf 76.5 - 5 filters including modern Tinosorb M
ZitpeelMulti-acid peel-3,20Anti-ageing 66.3 - Imperf 76.5 - Spots 76.5
ZitlessInternal buttons-3,70Imperf 76.5 - retinol + salicylic + niacinamide
ZitbackAcne back-4,00Spots 76.5 - body glycolic + niacinamide
DryzitTwo-phase spot lotion-4,00Imperf 68.0 - calamine + salicylic topical application
ZitmaskWeekly mask-6,50Imperf 76.5 - sulfur + salicylic + kaolin
Zitaid (HOCl)Topical antimicrobial-9,00Imperf 68.0 - 3-ingredient medical formulation (score to be contextualized)
Family 01

Daily signature routine - Zitcontrol Serum (5% AS liposome), Zitclean (5/5, tri-action), Zitcontrol SPF50

Three references making up the Acnemy signature daily routine. Zitcontrol Serum is the signature anti-acne serum with communicated concentrations (5 % AS liposome + 3 % Quora Noni + 0.035 % Ceramide NP). Zitclean is the cleaner rated 5/5 out of 1 BD review with tri-action 76.5×3. Zitcontrol SPF50 is a specific sun protection for acne-prone skin - a rare and relevant category.

Signature anti-acne serum - communicated concentrations + Nichosome® technology

Zitcontrol Serum

- N/A (INCI analysis - imperf 76.5, concentrations communicated) ~19 € / 40 ml
Imperfections 76.5 - 5 % liposomal salicylic acid + 3 % Quora Noni + 0.035 % Ceramide NP - concentrations communicated

Signature anti-acne serum based on four main active ingredients for concentrations communicated by the brand : 5 % liposomated salicylic acid (Nichosome® encapsulation, gradual release - high cosmetic concentration but with 0.1 % free salicylic acid according to brand communication), niacinamide in 2nd position INCI (significant concentration), Zinc PCA (seborrheic regulation), 3 % Quora Noni® (Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate) anti-inflammatory proprietary extract. Rare formulatory favourable point : presence of Ceramide NP (0.035 %) specifically identified in INCI - the majority of competing anti-acne serums make do with drying active ingredients that offer no barrier support. This inclusion reflects the NicheBeautyLab formulation philosophy also observed on Theramid. Phosphatidylcholine + hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine + cholesterol are also present in the Nichosome® liposomal system..

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
63
Oily skin
91
Normal to dry skin
63
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-0,70
Imperf / Stains
76,5 / 40,8
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -0.70). 5 % liposominated salicylic acid + niacinamide + Zinc PCA + Ceramide NP + Nichosome® technology. Correct tolerance profile for a daily BHA serum.
Source: Draelos ZD et al. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005.
" Zitcontrol Serum is probably the central formulation in the Acnemy catalog and one of the best daily anti-acne options in the premium cosmetics segment.. The combination of liposomal salicylic + niacinamide + Zinc PCA + Ceramide NP in a formulation with communicated concentrations and an affordable price (~€19) is consistent with daily use on mild to moderate acne-prone skin.. Cross-project comparison : Effaclar Duo+ LRP (~18 €, niacinamide + lipohydroxy acid - reference available); ; SVR Sébiaclear Serum (~22 €, AA 15 %) ; BHA 2 % Paula's Choice (blemishes 85 - BHA anti-acne reference from the project) ; Azelaic Acid 12% Serum TIRTIR (~30 €, redness 93.5 - project's rosacea reference). Acnemy adds concentration transparency and the presence of identified ceramides. Application 2-3 drops morning and/or evening on cleansed skin, as part of your daily routine. SPF mandatory in the morning (salicylic acid can increase sun sensitivity).»
Verdict - Consistent, well-formulated anti-acne serum. Daily maintenance reference for mild to moderate acne. Communicated concentrations + Ceramide NP named - NicheBeautyLab philosophy shared with Theramid.
Acne skin cleanser - only BD review 5/5, tri-action 76.5 × 3

Zitclean Purifying Cleanser

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (1 review - only Acnemy catalog note) ~15 € / 150 ml
TRI-ACTION 76.5 × 3 (Blemishes + Redness + Spots simultaneously) - Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + Sphingomonas ferment + Quora Noni + Ceramide NP

Acne-prone skin cleanser based on Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate in 5th position INCI (water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid - anti-bacterial C. acnes, anti-inflammatory, anti-pigmentation), Sphingomonas ferment extract (skin probiotic), salicylic acid in 7th position, Quora Noni®, antioxidant grape extract (Vitis vinifera), ginger (Zingiber officinale), boswellia (Boswellia serrata) anti-inflammatory, Ceramide NP, and mild surfactants (Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Decyl Glucoside). This combination of anti-acne + anti-pigmentation + anti-inflammatory + barrier support + gentle surfactants explains the remarkable tri-action profile (blemishes 76.5 + redness 76.5 + spots 76.5).. It's an exceptionally rich cleansing formulation for this usually basic category..

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
63
Oily skin
91
Normal to dry skin
63
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-0,50
Imperf / Redness / Spots
76,5 / 76,5 / 76,5
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -0.50). Remarkable tri-action profile: imperfections 76.5 + redness 76.5 + spots 76.5 (rare combination of scores 76.5 on three axes). User rating 5/5 confirming positive perception.
BeautyDecoders Reviews (1)
★★★★★
«Only review recorded on the Acnemy catalog - top rating on Zitclean Purifying Cleanser.»
" Zitclean is probably the best acne cleanser in the Acnemy catalog and one of the best tri-action cleansers on the cosmetics market.. For mild-to-moderate acne patients with associated post-inflammatory marques, this is a relevant option as a replacement for a conventional cleanser.. BeautyDecoded's 5/5 rating on 1 review confirms the positive perception - limited statistical basis, but consistent with the quality of the formulation.. Cross-project comparison : Effaclar Foaming Gel LRP (~€13, affordable reference - Acnemy adds a superior anti-pigmentation and anti-redness dimension); ; Toleriane Caring Wash LRP (~€10, fragrance-free for sensitive skin). Application Morning and evening double cleansing if make-up is used, or simple cleansing as part of a routine.»
Verdict - Excellent tri-action cleanser (acne + marques + redness). Only BD catalog review 5/5 on 1 feedback. Formulatory reference from the Acnemy catalog.
Specific suncare for acne-prone skin - rare category

Zitcontrol SPF50

- N/A (INCI analysis - imperf 76.5, 5 modern filters including Tinosorb M) ~19 € / 40 ml
Solaire-treatment 2-in-1 - 5 filters including modern Tinosorb M + niacinamide + AS + Zinc PCA + Quora Noni - Octinoxate to report

Solar formulated in cocktail of modern filters : Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) in 2nd INCI position, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) modern UVA filter, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone photostable UVB filter, and Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) - modern, high photostability filter. Enriched with niacinamide, salicylic acid, Zinc PCA and Quora Noni®. - it's a coherent 2-in-1 solar treatment. A rare and relevant category : most SPF50 sunscreens are not formulated for acne-prone skin (heavy, occlusive, comedogenic textures). Acnemy offers a specific response to a real clinical need. Note the presence of Octinoxate - filter under environmental surveillance (Kunisue 2012), but cosmetically well tolerated.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
63
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
63
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
-1,35
Imperf / Anti-aging
76,5 / 34,9
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -1.35). Rare category: SPF50 sunscreen specifically formulated for acne-prone skin (non-comedogenic, oil-free, no white film). 5 UV filters including modern Tinosorb M.
" Zitcontrol SPF50 meets a real clinical need that is often poorly covered by the market: photoprotection for treated acne-prone skin.. For a patient on an anti-acne routine (salicylic, retinoid, AHA), daily SPF50 is essential - and a non-comedogenic 2-in-1 sun treatment simplifies the routine.. It's a relevant option. Cross-project comparison : Anthelios Anti-Imperfections SPF50+ LRP (segment reference, ~17 €, advanced Mexoryl filters); ; Anthelios UVMune 400 LRP (~25 €, Mexoryl 400 long UVA 380-400 nm - absolute reference long UVA); ; Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum Skin1004 (~€22, 22 BD reviews 4.91/5, sensitive skin +1.5). Acnemy offers a more concentrated formulation of anti-acne active ingredients (niacinamide + salicylic + Zinc PCA + Quora Noni) at a slightly higher price. »
Verdict - 2-in-1 sun care-treatment for acne-prone skin - rare and relevant category. 5 modern filters including Tinosorb M. Octinoxate to report. Alternative: Anthelios UVMune 400 LRP (€25) for even more advanced filters.
Family 02

Post-acne & marques - Adapazit (claim demystified, +0.5 TOP catalog) and Postzit (spots 68.0)

Two references dedicated to treatment of post-inflammatory marques. Adapazit is paradoxically the most tolerant serum in the catalog (+0.5 sensitive, NO irritants) despite its evocative name of medical adapalene (debunked above). Postzit is the post-inflammatory anti-marques serum with niacinamide + Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + glycolic acid.

Tolerant radiance serum - «Adapazit» claim demystified, SAP + centella + bisabolol

Adapazit

- N/A (INCI analysis - sensitive skin +0.50 TOP catalog, NO irritants) ~22 € / 30 ml
Sensitive skin +0.50 TOP catalog - NO irritants - SAP + Madecassoside + bisabolol - Anti-ageing 66.3 + Spots 76.5

Attention to product name : the name «Adapazit» may evoke the medical retinoid adapalene (Differin®). INCI review confirms that this formulation does not contain adapalene - a gentle cosmetic serum based on a vitamin C derivative + centella + bisabolol. Radiance serum formulation based on : Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) in 2nd position INCI - stable water-soluble phosphate derivative of vitamin C (Telang 2013), Madecassoside (isolated centella - main active compound documented in Centella asiatica), bisabolol (anti-inflammatory), Lactobacillus ferment (probiotic), ginger (Zingiber officinale), plant sterols (Brassica campestris). This combination of derived vitamin C + isolated centella + bisabolol explains the exceptional tolerance profile. (+0.5 sensitive - best in catalog, no irritants detected) combined with a multi-action profile (anti-aging 66.3 + spots 76.5 + redness 55.2).

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
91
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
+0,50
Anti-ageing / Spots
66,3 / 76,5
✅ Sensitivity verdict Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.50 - best in the Acnemy catalog). NO irritants detected in INCI. Remarkable multi-action profile (anti-aging + spots + redness).
Source: Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013.
" Paradoxically, Adapazit is the most tolerant and versatile serum in the Acnemy catalog, despite its misleading name.. For a patient looking for an anti-inflammatory radiance serum compatible with sensitive acne-prone skin in recovery phase, this is a relevant option.. For a patient seeking a medical retinoid such as adapalene, a dermatological consultation should be considered - Adapazit is not a substitute.. Cross-sectional comparison of the Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate project : Vitamin C 11 % SAP Typology (~12.50 €, same type of SAP stable derivative, sensitive skin 0, rated 4.75/5 on 2 BD reviews - fragrance-free); ; Truth Serum Ole Henriksen (~50 €) ; Banana Bright 15% Dark Spot Ole Henriksen (~45 €, spots 88.4). Acnemy offers superior value for money with a significantly better tolerance profile. »
Verdict - Best catalog tolerance (+0.5 sensitivity, NO irritants). Multi-purpose radiance serum SAP + centella + bisabolol. Point of interest name evokes adapalene but does not contain it - INCI check recommended.
Post-acne serum - niacinamide + Potassium Azeloyl + glycolic acid

Postzit

- N/A (INCI analysis - stains 68.0 + imperf 76.5) ~22 € / 30 ml
Post-acne bi-action serum - Spots 68.0 + Blemishes 76.5 - Niacinamide + Potassium Azeloyl + glycolic + Ceramide NP

Post-acne treatment serum based on : niacinamide in 2nd position INCI (anti-pigmentation, anti-inflammatory), Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate in 3rd place (azelaic derivative), Quora Noni® in 5th grade, glycolic acid (AHA) in 6th grade, salicylic acid in 7th position, and Ceramide NP in 8th place. This anti-pigmentation (niacinamide + azelaic + glycolic) + exfoliating (glycolic + salicylic) + barrier (ceramide) combination specifically targets the post-inflammatory spots (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, PIH) that follow acne pimples., particularly marked in phototypes IV-VI.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
78,4
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
78,4
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
-1,20
Imperf / Stains
76,5 / 68
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -1.20). Remarkable dual-action profile: blemishes 68.0 + imperfections 76.5. Niacinamide + Potassium Azeloyl + glycolic acid + Ceramide NP.
" Postzit is a post-acne formulation consistent with the dermatological literature on the treatment of post-inflammatory spots.. For patients who have treated their active acne and have residual pigmentary marques, this is a relevant option for a 6-8 week course of treatment as part of an evening routine.. Application Apply a thin layer to affected areas after treatment serum and before moisturizer. SPF 50+ mandatory in the morning (AHAs and glycolic acid increase sun sensitivity). Cross-sectional comparison of anti-PIH project : Mela B3 LRP Serum (~37 €, stains 90,1 - niacinamide + tranexamic acid anti-PIH reference); ; Liftactiv B3 Vichy (~35 €, stains 95.2 record any BD base - niacinamide + tranexamic acid AHA-free alcohol-free fragrance-free); ; AZID Theramid (~38 €, spots 88.4 + redness 93.5, 5/5 out of 5 BD reviews - AA 15 %). Acnemy offers a multi-mechanism approach at an affordable price. Limitation: glycolic and niacinamide concentrations are not specifically reported for this reference.. »
Verdict - Coherent bi-action post-acne serum - blemishes 68.0 + imperfections 76.5. Niacinamide + Potassium Azeloyl + glycolic + Ceramide NP. For premium anti-PIH: prefer Liftactiv B3 Vichy (€35, stains 95.2 record any BD base).
Family 03

Soothing Zitcalm - Cleanser (0.0), Serum (0.0), Cream (-0.25) for irritant phase

Three references make up the Zitcalm soothing range, designed for acne-prone skin weakened by successive drying treatments. Zitcalm Cleanser and Zitcalm Serum score 0.0 sensitive. Zitcalm Cream obtains -0.25 sensitive. Recommended routine in the recovery phase after inflammatory flare-ups.

Soothing irritant phase cleanser - sensitive skin 0.0

Zitcalm Cleanser

- N/A (INCI analysis - sensitive skin 0.0 + redness 59.5) ~14 € / 150 ml
Sensitive skin 0.0 - irritant recovery phase - mild surfactants + centella + panthenol

Gentle soothing cleanser with mild surfactants of plant origin andsoothing extracts : centella asiatica, panthenol (provitamin B5), allantoin, bisabolol. This is the cleanser to use in the recovery phase after inflammatory flare-ups, or alternatively with Zitclean. to relieve acne-prone skin weakened by drying active ingredients.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
63
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
63
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
0,00
Redness
59,5
✅ Sensitivity verdict Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.00). Irritant recovery phase - mild surfactants + centella + panthenol + bisabolol.
" Zitcalm Cleanser is the gentle alternative to Zitclean for phases when the skin barrier is weakened.. Use as a relay or alternately for 1-2 weeks after inflammatory flare-up. Cross-project comparison : Toleriane Caring Wash LRP (~€10, unscented - accessible reference); ; Avene Extreme Tolerance Cleansing Gel. »
Verdict - Sensitive skin 0.0 - soft alternative phase recovery. Mild surfactants + centella + panthenol. Consistent in alternation with Zitclean in a two-phase routine.
Soothing serum - sensitive skin 0.0 + anti-aging 50.2

Zitcalm Serum

- N/A (INCI analysis - sensitive skin 0.0 + anti-aging 50.2) ~21 € / 30 ml
Sensitive skin 0.0 - Zinc + glycyrrhiza + panthenol + bisabolol - post-treatment recovery

Soothing serum with Zinc PCA, licorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) anti-inflammatory, panthenol, bisabolol, allantoin, and Ceramide NP for barrier restoration. Specifically designed for acne-prone skin in recovery phase, Zitcontrol Serum can be used as an alternative or replacement when the skin barrier needs to be restored.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
70
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
70
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
0,00
Anti-aging / Redness
50,2 / 34
✅ Sensitivity verdict Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.00). Zinc + glycyrrhiza + panthenol + bisabolol + Ceramide NP - active post-treatment recovery.
" Zitcalm Serum is the natural transition after a course of Zitcontrol Serum when the skin barrier is weakened.. Use for 2-3 weeks to replace Zitcontrol, then gradually reintroduce the active serum.. Cross-sectional comparison of the project on soothing centella : Cica Care Serum TIRTIR (~28 €, sensitive skin +3.25 RECORD ABSOLUTE project - 4 isolated centella compounds) ; Centella Ampoule Skin1004 (~€16, 35 reviews 4.86/5, anti-aging 91.8, +2.25 sensitive). Acnemy remains consistent at a lower tolerance level than these two references. »
Verdict - Sensitive skin 0.0 - active post-treatment recovery. Zinc + licorice + panthenol + bisabolol + Ceramide NP. For soothing records: prefer Cica Care Serum TIRTIR (+3.25 RECORD).
Soothing moisturizing cream - sensitive skin -0.25

Zitcalm Cream

- N/A (INCI analysis - sensitive skin -0.25 + redness 34) ~22 € / 50 ml
Sensitive skin -0.25 - Soothing routine final cream - Ceramide NP + panthenol + glycyrrhiza

Soothing moisturizing cream with Ceramide NP, panthenol, glycyrrhiza, bisabolol, and vegetable squalene. Concludes the Zitcalm soothing routine with a final moisturizing treatment.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
70
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
70
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
-0,25
Redness
34
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -0.25). Final soothing routine. Ceramide NP + panthenol + glycyrrhiza.
" Zitcalm Cream completes the Zitcalm soothing routine with a final moisturizing treatment.. Consistent with acne-prone skin in recovery phase. Cross-project comparison : Cicaplast Baume B5 LRP (~€13, fragrance-free panthenol concentrate); ; Bariéderm-Cica Gel-Cream Uriage (~17 €, thermal water + Cica). »
Verdict - Final routine soothing cream - sensitive skin -0.25. Ceramide NP + panthenol + glycyrrhiza + bisabolol. Zitcalm coherent routine Cleanser + Serum + Cream.
Family 04

Local & medical treatment - ZITPROOF® medical patches and Zitaid HOCl to be contextualized

Two emblematic references from the local treatment Acnemy. ZITPROOF® Spot / Nose / Multizits are medicalized hydrocolloid patches (salicylic + centella integrated) in 3 anatomical formats - differentiation vs standard COSRX. Zitaid is the medical solution of hypochlorous acid (HOCl) whose unfavorable algorithmic score (-9.00) needs to be clinically contextualized.

Medical hydrocolloid patches - 3 anatomical sizes

ZITPROOF® Spot / Nose / Multizits

- N/A (INCI analysis - sensitive skin 0.00 mechanical action) ~8-12 € / pack
Sensitive skin 0.00 - medicalized hydrocolloid patches (salicylic + centella) in 3 anatomical formats - differentiation vs COSRX

Three hydrocolloid patches anatomically differentiated : ZITPROOF® Spot (standard round patches), ZITPROOF® Nose (shape adapted to the nose area and nasal wings), ZITPROOF® Multizits (multi-size patches for different zones). All three incorporate salicylic acid and centella asiatica in the hydrocolloid matrix. (medicalization of the standard patch, unlike purely hydrocolloid patches such as COSRX). The concentration of integrated active ingredients remains low, but allows for gradual diffusion over the duration of the application..

✅ Sensitivity verdict Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.00). As hydrocolloid patches are medical devices with a mechanical action (fluid absorption), the score reflects the absence of significant cutaneous penetration.
" Hydrocolloid patches have become a standard part of today's acne routine - they absorb the fluid content of a whitehead pimple in 6-8 hours and accelerate healing while preventing compulsive pimple picking.. ZITPROOF® Acnemy adds integrated active ingredients (salicylic + centella) to the basic hydrocolloid function. For adolescent or young adult patients with moderate acne retention/papulopustular acne, this is a relevant option for local night-time treatment.. Cross-sectional comparison : COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch (~€5-7, benchmark in the hydrocolloid patch segment - effectiveness documented by millions of users, simple hydrocolloid formulation). Acnemy patches are more complete (medicalized + anatomical formats) at a higher price.. Reportable limits risk of sensitization to salicylic on highly reactive skin - in this case, prefer a simple hydrocolloid patch without active ingredients».»
Verdict - Medicalized hydrocolloid patches 3 anatomical formats - differentiation vs. standard COSRX. Salicylic + centella in matrix. For occasional use: prefer COSRX (€5-7). For regular treatment use: ZITPROOF® justified.
Hypochlorous acid medical solution - 3 INCI ingredients

Zitaid (hypochlorous acid HOCl)

- N/A (INCI analysis - gross score -9.00 to be contextualized) ~18 € / 100 ml
Sensitive skin score -9.00 ALGORITHMIQUE - 3-ingredient medical formulation (HOCl) well tolerated in actual clinical use - score to be qualified

Minimalist medical formulation 3 ingredients water, hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and sodium chloride (salt) to stabilize. Hypochlorous acid is a physiological molecule naturally produced by human neutrophils during the immune response. - it has documented antimicrobial action against Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa (Block & Rowan 2020). Used in dermatology for acne-prone skin, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, and for post-surgical healing.. Good documented tolerance in actual medical use despite unfavorable algorithmic score.

❌ Verdict sensitivity - to be contextualized Algorithmic score: -9.00. Reflects BeautyDecoded classification of HOCl as active without soothing support - this crude algorithmic reading deserves clinical contextualization, however: the formulation is documented and well tolerated in actual medical use.
Source: Block MS, Rowan BG. Hypochlorous acid: a review. J Oral Maxillofac Surg. 2020.
" Zitaid illustrates an interesting limitation of algorithmic reading: a pharmacologically coherent product widely used in dermatology obtains an unfavorable sensitive skin score simply because its minimalist formulation contains no associated soothing active ingredients.. For patients with active inflammatory acne, targeted spray use 2-3 times a day on active pimples is a relevant option.. Cross-sectional comparison : CLn BodyWash, Briotech HOCl - Acnemy offers the right formulation at an affordable price. This is not a product to be used routinely all over the face, but as a targeted local treatment.. »
Verdict - Medical solution HOCl 3 ingredients - algorithmic score -9.00 to be nuanced clinically. Documented antimicrobial action C. acnes + S. aureus. Strictly for local use on active pimples, not for extensive routine use.

Acnemy vs anti-acne references - mono-pathological pharma-grade positioning.

Comparison of Acnemy positioning with adjacent positions : dermo-cosmetics pharmacy (LRP Effaclar, SVR Sébiaclear) and sister brand clinical premium (Theramid).

Criteria Acnemy Effaclar (LRP) Sébiaclear (SVR) Theramid
Origin Spain 2020 (NicheBeautyLab) France L'Oréal France 1992 Spain (NicheBeautyLab)
Specialization 100 % acne Acne + combination skin Acne + hyperpigmentation Multi-indication clinical serum
Acne course coverage Exhaustive (19 ref) Complete (15+ ref) Very complete AZID + Even In + AHA
Documented assets Liposomal salicylic + Quora Noni + niacinamide Salicylic + LHA + niacinamide Azelaic 15 % + salicylic Azelaic 15 % + ceramides
Photoprotection acne Zitcontrol SPF50 dedicated Anthelios Anti-Imperfections Sun Secure Blur Not covered
Hydrocolloid patches 3 anatomical medical formats Not available Not available Not available
Patented galenics Nichosome® liposomal Non-specific Retinol encapsulation Peptide stratification
Serum treatment price ~19 € ~18 € ~22 € ~38-50 €
⚖️
Synthetic reading - Acnemy on dermo-cosmetic segment mono-pathological acne premium accessible. Acnemy occupies a premium pharma-grade niche position with a strong focus on acne, distinguished by (1) the the most comprehensive coverage of the acne pathway observed among the marquess analyzed (19 references covering cleaning, treatment, photoprotection, post-acne, patches, body care, medical disinfection); (2) the patented Nichosome® liposomal technology ; (3) the concentration transparency on key formulations ; (4) the affordable value (~€19) ; (5) the systematic presence of ceramides for barrier support (a philosophy shared with sister Theramid). For a mild-to-moderate acne patient looking for a complete active-focused routine at an affordable price, this is probably one of the best-structured marquess on the BeautyDecoded panel to date.. For severe acne, dermatological consultation with prescribed retinoids remains a priority - Acnemy can complement this medical care.

Is Acnemy made for you?

Table of user profiles with recommendations based on the 19 references analyzed.

User profile Interest Acnemy Recommended product / alternative
Mild to moderate acne daily routineMaximal - clinically legitimate targetZitclean + Zitcontrol Serum + Zitcontrol SPF50
Sensitive acne skin phase recoveryStrong - dedicated Zitcalm range (0.0 and -0.25)Zitcalm Cleanser + Zitcalm Serum + Zitcalm Cream
Post-acne marks / post-inflammatory hyperpigmentationFort - Postzit + Adapazit + ZitpeelPostzit (evening) + Adapazit (morning) + Zitcontrol SPF50
White-headed button spotsFort - ZITPROOF® medical patchesZITPROOF® Spot or COSRX alternative (€5-7) for occasional use
Acne back / décolleté / bodyStrong - Dedicated Zitback + ZitbodyZitback (glycolic body spray) + SPF body mandatory
Active inflammatory acneComplete - Zitaid HOCl for targeted local usePriority dermatological consultation + Zitaid local spray
Acne-prone skin + daily photoprotectionStrong - acne-specific sunscreen rare categoryZitcontrol SPF50 or Anthelios UVMune 400 LRP (€25) depending on filter preference
Medical adapalene researchNone - Adapazit does NOT contain adapaleneDermatological consultation required (Differin® prescribed)
Severe / nodular / cystic acneInsufficient - no medical substitutePriority dermatological consultation (prescribed retinoids, isotretinoin)
Rosacea / non-acneic reactive skinNon-target - non-rosaceous markPrefer AZID Theramid (€38) or Azelaic 12% TIRTIR (€30, sensitive +0.25)
Serious corrective anti-agingLimited - no dedicated anti-aging retinoidPrefer Theramid Clinical Vitamin A (€50, 95.2) or Retinal The Ordinary (€14.90).
Maximum Q/P budgetModerate - premium nichePrefer Effaclar LRP (~€13-18) or The Ordinary active concentrates

Everything you need really know.

Is Acnemy really a serious dermo-cosmetic brand?
Yes, There are several objective factors that support this observation: (1) the brand is developed by NicheBeautyLab, an independent Spanish laboratory based in Barcelona, which also produces Theramid ; (2) the distribution is mainly through Spanish pharmacies and European online parapharmacies ; (3) the concentrations of key assets are communicated (3 % Quora Noni, 5 % liposomal salicylic acid, 0.035 % Ceramide NP on Zitcontrol); (4) the the systematic use of ceramides for barrier support reflects a rigorous formulation philosophy rare in the anti-acne segment ; (5) the comprehensive coverage of acne treatment (daily routine, local treatment, post-acne, photoprotection, body care) meets a real clinical need. Acnemy positions itself as a Spanish pharma-grade dermo-cosmetic, to be understood as a cosmetic complement to dermatological management of mild to moderate acne, not a medical substitute for severe acne.
Does «Adapazit» contain adapalene?
No. The the name «Adapazit» may evoke the medical retinoid adapalene (Differin®, prescribed treatment), but INCI examination confirms that this formulation does not contain adapalene. It is in fact a gentle cosmetic serum centered on sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a stable vitamin C derivative), madecassoside (an active compound isolated from centella asiatica) and bisabolol (an anti-inflammatory). For consumers looking for a medical retinoid such as adapalene, the product will not meet their expectations. - a dermatological consultation is required to obtain a prescription. For consumers looking for a gentle, well-tolerated anti-inflammatory cosmetic radiance serum, Adapazit is paradoxically the most tolerant formulation in the Acnemy catalog. (sensitive skin score +0.5, no irritants detected). This claim/INCI consistency point is worth checking by the consumer before purchase..
Can Acnemy replace dermatological acne treatment?
No, and this distinction is important. Acnemy is a cosmetic anti-acne brand that can complement dermatological treatment, but does not replace it for moderate to severe acne. For active, nodular or cystic inflammatory acne, prescribed medical treatments remain the clinical benchmarks. with documented efficacy: topical retinoids (adapalene, tretinoin), topical or oral antibiotics, medical benzoyl peroxide, oral isotretinoin in severe forms. For mild to moderate acne, or for maintenance after medical treatment, Acnemy can be a consistent cosmetic routine.. Dermatological consultation remains a priority in cases of nodular, scarring, hormonal acne or acne resistant to cosmetic treatments after 2-3 months..
What's the difference between Acnemy and Theramid?
Visit two marquess developed by the same Spanish laboratory, NicheBeautyLab (Barcelona), but with distinct positioning : Acnemy is mono-pathological acne/imperfections, with a comprehensive coverage of acne treatment (19 references) to affordable price (~€19 per serum). Theramid is multi-indication clinical premium, centered on 10 concentrated active serums (retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, ceramides, azelaic acid) to higher price (~38-50 €). Both marquess share a common formulation philosophy documented active ingredients in concentrations often communicated, systematic presence of ceramides for barrier support, INCI transparency. For the acne patient, Acnemy offers the most comprehensive and affordable coverage available.. For an anti-aging or redness/rosacea patient, Theramid with its AZID (AA 15 % + 5 ceramides) or Clinical Vitamin A is more suitable..
Is Zitcontrol SPF50 really suitable for acne-prone skin?
Yes, Zitcontrol SPF50 meets a real clinical need that is often poorly covered by the market: the photoprotection of acne-prone skin.. Most SPF50 sunscreens are not formulated for acne-prone skin (heavy, occlusive, comedogenic, scented textures). Acnemy offers a non-comedogenic, oil-free, white-film-free formulation with 5 modern UV filters. (including photostable Tinosorb M and Ethylhexyl Triazone) enriched with active treatment ingredients (niacinamide, salicylic acid, Zinc PCA, Quora Noni). A coherent 2-in-1 treatment-sun for the morning routine of acne-prone skin under treatment. (salicylic, AHAs, retinoids - all of which increase sun sensitivity). Sensitive skin score -1.35 (moderate, consistent with the presence of salicylic acid). Cross-sectional comparison : Anthelios Anti-Imperfections SPF50+ LRP (the segment benchmark) uses more advanced Mexoryl filters, but with fewer integrated active ingredients.
Are ZITPROOF® patches really worth more than COSRX patches?
An apt comparison. COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch (~€5-7) is the standard reference in the hydrocolloid patch segment. - documented effectiveness by millions of users, simple hydrocolloid formulation, multi-size. ZITPROOF® Acnemy patches add medicalization (integration of salicylic acid and centella in the hydrocolloid matrix) and 3 specialized anatomical formats (Standard round spotlights, nose-shaped spotlights, multi-size Multizits). For occasional use on whitehead buttons, COSRX is more than sufficient and more economical.. For regular use with a complementary treatment effect, ZITPROOF® can justify the price differential.. Reportable limits risk of sensitization to salicylic on highly reactive skin - prefer a simple hydrocolloid patch without active ingredients.
Is Zitaid with hypochlorous acid dangerous for the skin?
No, despite its unfavorable algorithmic score (-9.00). Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) is a physiological molecule naturally produced by human neutrophils during the immune response.. Its tolerability has been documented in actual clinical use. (Block & Rowan 2020) for acne-prone skin, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis and post-surgical healing. The BeautyDecoded algorithmic score reflects the classification of HOCl as an active molecule with no associated soothing support in the formulation. (3 ingredients: water + HOCl + salt), but this crude algorithmic reading must be qualified by clinical nuance. Appropriate use Targeted spray 2-3 times a day on inflamed acne-prone areas, not an extended routine for the entire face. For patients with active inflammatory acne, the benefit/risk ratio is generally favorable..
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to INCI analysis. The application analyzes formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 19 Acnemy references are referenced in the BD database, with 1 user review recorded (Zitclean Purifying Cleanser, 5/5). at the time of writing. In the case of Acnemy, the application is particularly useful for choosing between the many products in the catalog according to your type of acne. (retentional, inflammatory, cystic, post-acne) and your skin tolerance level. Important: in the case of moderate to severe, cystic or nodular acne, dermatological consultation is always a priority before cosmetic self-prescription.. It does not constitute a medical consultation.

Plastic and aesthetic surgeon. Founder of BeautyDecoded.

15 yearsclinical expertise
200 000+YouTube subscribers
70 000+Instagram & TikTok followers

«Acnemy is the first single-pathology acne brand analyzed by the BeautyDecoded project, and probably the most exhaustive coverage of the cosmetic acne journey observed to date. Spanish cosmetics brand launched in Barcelona in 2020 by NicheBeautyLab - an independent laboratory which also produces Theramid (premium clinical serums). This filiation is an important point of analysis: Acnemy and Theramid share a common formulatory philosophy that I recognize after examining their respective catalogs - systematic presence of ceramides identified by name as barrier support (Ceramide NP), transparency of concentrations on key formulations, patented liposomal technology (Nichosome® for Acnemy), INCI rigor. This is rare in the consumer cosmetics segment. The Acnemy catalog covers the entire acne journey with 19 products: daily routine (Zitclean + Zitcontrol Serum + Zitcontrol SPF50), local treatment (ZITPROOF® medical patches in 3 anatomical formats, Dryzit lotion, Zitless serum), post-acne and marques (Postzit, Zitpeel, Adapazit), soothing phase recovery (Zitcalm range), body care (Zitback, Zitbody), medical disinfection (Zitaid with hypochlorous acid), weekly mask (Zitmask). Average score for sensitive skin -1.85 (median -0.70) - moderate tolerance profile consistent with the focus on anti-acne active ingredients. Several formulatory cases deserve positive mention: Zitcontrol Serum with concentrations communicated (5% AS liposome + 3% Quora Noni + 0.035% Ceramide NP) - rare in the segment; Zitclean tri-action remarkable (imperfections 76.5 + redness 76.5 + spots 76.5 simultaneous) with 5/5 on 1 user review; Adapazit paradoxically the most tolerant of the catalog (+0.5 sensitive, no irritants detected). Two points deserve an honest editorial mention. Adapazit serum has a name evocative of the medical retinoid adapalene (Differin®, prescribed treatment) but does not contain adapalene - INCI examination confirms a mild cosmetic formulation SAP + madecassoside + bisabolol. This is a case comparable to the project's previous reports (collageneer Cosmia, Retin-ALT Ole Henriksen): the practice of evocative naming is legal as long as no specific active is falsely claimed in the composition, but it deserves to be reported to calibrate consumer expectations. Zitaid with hypochlorous acid obtains an unfavorable sensitive skin score of -9.00 - an algorithmic result which does not reflect the reality of dermatological use. The HOCl formulation is documented and well tolerated in actual medical use (inflammatory acne, eczema, post-surgical healing). This is a case where the crude algorithmic reading needs to be nuanced by clinical nuance. Three editorial recommendations. For teenage and young adult patients with mild to moderate acne looking for a complete cosmetic routine at an affordable price: Acnemy is one of the best-structured marquess on the panel. For sensitive acne-prone skin in recovery phase: the Zitcalm + Adapazit + ZITPROOF® patches range is a relevant gentle routine. For moderate to severe, nodular, cystic or resistant acne: priority dermatological consultation with prescribed medical treatments (retinoids such as adapalene or tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, isotretinoin) - Acnemy can complement this medical management with a supportive cosmetic routine.»

Analyze an Acnemy product on your skin profile.

The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis - particularly useful for arbitrating between the 19 Acnemy references according to your acne type (retentional, inflammatory, post-acne), to objectively verify the actual composition of Adapazit serum (which does not evoke medical adapalene despite the naming), and to contextualize the unfavorable algorithmic score of Zitaid HOCl in relation to its actual clinical use in dermatology. Important: in the case of moderate to severe, cystic or nodular acne, dermatological consultation remains the priority before cosmetic self-prescription.

Application available on iOS and Android
Dr Sylvain David Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded

Information for educational purposes only, not a substitute for medical consultation. BeautyDecoded is an artificial intelligence cosmetic analysis application and is not a medical diagnostic tool. Acnemy is a Spanish cosmetics brand developed by NicheBeautyLab in Barcelona - its products are not medical devices. This analysis is based on 19 Acnemy references algorithmically analyzed by BeautyDecoded with 1 user review recorded on the catalog (Zitclean Purifying Cleanser, 5/5). at the time of writing. This analysis is therefore based mainly on algorithmic formulation scores and detailed examination of INCI lists. - the single user opinion does not constitute a statistically robust validation. Acnemy is an anti-acne cosmetic brand that can complement dermatological treatment, but does not replace it for moderate to severe acne.. For active, nodular or cystic inflammatory acne, the medical treatments prescribed remain the clinical references with documented efficacy. topical retinoids (adapalene, tretinoin), topical or oral antibiotics, medical benzoyl peroxide, oral isotretinoin in severe forms. Average score for sensitive skin -1.85 (median -0.70) - moderate tolerance profile, consistent with the orientation of anti-acne active ingredients. Point of consistency claim/INCI reported editorially : Adapazit serum has a name evocative of the medical retinoid adapalene (Differin®) but does not contain adapalene in its INCI.. INCI examination confirms a gentle cosmetic formulation centered on Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (stable vitamin C derivative) + Madecassoside (isolated centella) + bisabolol. For consumers seeking a medical retinoid such as adapalene, a dermatological consultation is necessary to obtain a prescription.. Precautions Zitcontrol Serum (5 % liposomal salicylic acid) : SPF50+ morning mandatory (salicylic acid can increase sun sensitivity). Precautions Postzit (glycolic acid AHA + salicylic acid BHA) : SPF50+ morning mandatory, gradual introduction recommended. Precautions Zitless (presence of retinol) : contraindicated during pregnancy and breast-feeding, SPF50+ morning mandatory, gradual introduction. Precautions Zitcontrol SPF50 : presence of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) - filter under documented environmental monitoring (Kunisue 2012), prohibits Hawaii/Palaos for coral reef toxicity. Contemporary dermo-cosmetic references have withdrawn octinoxate - prefer Anthelios UVMune 400 LRP (€25, Mexoryl 400 long UVA) if even more advanced filters are required. Precautions Zitaid (hypochlorous acid HOCl) : algorithmic sensitive skin score -9.00 to be clinically contextualized - documented and well-tolerated medical formulation in actual clinical use (Block & Rowan 2020). Appropriate use Targeted spray 2-3 times a day on active pimples, not an extended routine for the entire face. Precautions ZITPROOF® patches (presence of integrated salicylic acid) : risk of sensitization on highly reactive skin - In this case, a simple hydrocolloid patch without active ingredients (COSRX) is preferable. 48-hour patch test on forearm mandatory before facial use for all new active ingredients on reactive skin. SPF 50+ morning mandatory on all anti-acne routines incorporating photosensitizing active ingredients (salicylic, glycolic, retinol). In the event of a skin reaction to a cosmetic, stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. In cases of moderate to severe acne, nodular, cystic or resistant to cosmetic treatments after 2-3 months, dermatological consultation remains a priority.. This article does not constitute a commercial partnership with the Acnemy brand.