Anti-spot care for the face

Today we're going to look at how to improve hyperpigmentation problems through skin care. I won't hide it from you, it takes time and you need to multiply the active ingredients, but these two criteria are the keys to success.

Best anti-spot serum

Best anti-spot cream

Anti-stain ingredients :

Alpha-arbutin

Alpha arbutin has a somewhat similar action to hydroquinone, the two active ingredients being quite similar in form. Its advantage is that it is suitable for all skin types and is generally well tolerated. Given that to combat hyperpigmentation, you need to multiply the number of active ingredients to achieve results on pigmented lesions, alpha arbutin is the active ingredient of choice.

The recommended concentration is 2%.

Tranexamic acid:

Another active ingredient is tranexamic acid, which regulates the action of tyrosinase, as well as mast cells which induce neovascularization. Tranexamic acid has a dual action, which makes it very useful for melasma sufferers, as we know that neovascularization phenomena are involved in melasma. It is also an excellent depigmenting agent. Several recently published studies have shown that topical use of tranexamic acid is as effective as hydroquinone without the side effects. The ideal concentration ranges from 2 to 5%.

Multifunctional assets:

Vitamin C: Anti-wrinkle, evens skin tone and has a brightening effect.

The ideal concentration depends on your tolerance and, above all, on the other active ingredients you use for your facial care.

Pure vitamin C has a direct action on hyperpigmentation by regulating the action of melanocytes, and is also a powerful anti-oxidant, fighting the damage created by free radicals all day long. A study has shown that the application of an antioxidant in addition to sun protection increases protection against UV damage by 30%. So there's a double benefit to using vitamin C. It is an excellent depigmenting ingredient.

Azelaic acid: Effective against red and brown spots

Azelaic acid acts not only on melanogenesis. It also acts on inflammatory brown and red spots. It is frequently used in the treatment of acne thanks to its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, but also to treat post-acne hyperpigmentation.

This active ingredient is also of interest in the back-to-school period, as the anti-inflammatory action of the sun will diminish, which can lead to the appearance of imperfections in people who have been in the sun this summer. I'd also like to point out that it's not an exfoliating acid, so you can easily combine it with other exfoliating products. However, you may feel a tingling sensation when you first use it, so if this applies to you, as always, I'd advise you to start using it every other day.

Azelaic acid was also compared to hydroquinone in a double-blind study. Azelaic acid at 20% was similar in efficacy to hydroquinone at 4%, but without the latter's side effects. Azelaic acid was superior to hydroquinone at 2%.

Retinol: Anti-dark spot and anti-aging

Retinoids are also extremely effective in shortening the cell regeneration cycle and regulating tyrosinase.

Retinoids also stimulate collagen and elastin production, which has the effect of reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture, so they are particularly interesting for people wishing to treat both a hyperpigmentation problem and a problematic anti-aging. Knowing that many products are irritating, I suggest a product with a low concentration of retinol.

Thiamidol:

Eucerin has launched its range of anti-pigment serums using thiamidol. Studies show that thiamidol is interesting in the fight against spots.

Viniferin:

Caudalie is known for its vinoperfect range, with viniferin as its star ingredient.

Hydroquinone: Prohibited

Banned, but I mention it because I often cite it in comparative studies on pigmented lesions. Hydroquinone is a very effective active ingredient, but can be dangerous if not used correctly, which is why it is not sold over the counter in France, but can be prescribed by a dermatologist.

Which reminds me: don't hesitate to consult a dermatologist if you're suffering from annoying hyperpigmentation and can't treat it with cosmetics.

Indirect-action anti-spot cosmetics:

Now, products that don't act directly on melanogenesis. There are 3 types of complementary products which do not act on melanogenesis, but which are of interest in the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Niacinamide: Supportive care

One of niacinamide's actions is to reduce the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to the skin's surface. It is therefore very useful for treating sun-induced hyperpigmentation, post-acne, as well as melasma. An interesting study compared the efficacy of niacinamide vs hydroquinone on melasma sufferers. Patients applied hydroquinone to one side of the face and niacinamide to the other, with similar improvement on both sides of the face, but with significantly less irritation on the niacinamide-treated side.

On the other hand, niacinamide stimulates the production of ceramides, which strengthen our cutaneous barrier. Our skin becomes more resistant and tolerant to other active ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol.

SPF sun cream: A must-have for every beauty routine

Apply SPF 50 sun protection that also UVA protection every day is essential, but not enough. A common mistake is not to use sunscreens containing iron oxides. Iron oxides protect against visible light, and we know that visible light is also responsible for hyperpigmentation. Sunscreen remains the best depigmenting agent.

The results of this study, carried out as part of a medical thesis, show that protection against visible light, in addition to conventional sun protection, reduces summer relapses. If you don't want to use a sunscreen containing iron oxides, the alternative is to introduce them during the make-up phase.

The 3 causes of hyperpigmentation :

The three main reasons for the appearance of spots are excessive sun exposure, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation "after a wound, lesion or medical treatment such as a laser or peel" and the third reason is obviously hormones.

The 4 axes of depigmenting treatments:

The first is to limit and protect against external aggressions, such as sun exposure, and to apply SPF every day.

The second is to limit melanin pigment production, by reducing tyrosinase activity and applying anti-spot creams.

The third is to limit the transfer of melanin from the deep layers of the epidermis to the superficial layers to even out skin tone with niacinamide.

And the fourth is to renew the most superficial layers of the epidermis, notably through exfoliation to disperse pigments rapidly and bring radiance to the face.

Exfoliators: They even out the complexion

Exfoliants such as glycolic, lactic or mandelic acid, or even PHAs, destroy the bonds between the skin's most superficial cells, reorganizing the epidermis and accelerating desquamation, leading to rapid pigment dispersion. In addition to this mechanical action, acids are said to inhibit tyrosinase activity, thus having a direct effect on melanin synthesis.

The different types of cosmetics :

Be aware that the price of a cosmetic product often has nothing to do with its effectiveness, as the price is often justified by intense marketing. To find out more about my list of effective cosmetics for pigmentation spots, click here:

Don't forget to cleanse gently and moisturize your skin, as spot-fighting products can be aggressive.

To sum up FACIAL CARE are effective in the fight against hyperpigmentation, as long as the active ingredients and cosmetic products (serum, cream, oil, mask) are multiplied in a beauty care routine.

Anti-dark spot care for dry skin

The best medical references

J Cosmet Dermatol 2021 Feb;20(2):561-565. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13545. Epub 2020 Jun 25.

Efficacy and safety of tranexamic acid 5% cream vs hydroquinone 4% cream in treating melasma: A split-face comparative clinical, histopathological, and antera 3D camera study

Dermatol Ther

. 2020 Nov;33(6):e14240. doi: 10.1111/dth.14240. Epub 2020 Sep 14

Sarkar R, Arora P, Garg KV. Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation: what is available? J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2013;6(1):4-11. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.110089

Telang PS.VITAMIN C DERMATOLOGY Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593