Brand reviews - BeautyDecoded analysis
Anua.
Anua Heartleaf niacinamide and azelaic acid! K-beauty.
Korean brand built around the Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata) at high concentrations (70-77 %) and concentrated corrective actives (niacinamide 10 %, tranexamic acid 4 %, azelaic acid 10 %, BHA 2 %). Ten products analyzed across five ranges.
10
Products analyzed
37
User reviews
4,15
Average score /5
77 %
Heartleaf concentrate
What sets the brand apart
Visit Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata) - documented biochemistry.
A medicinal plant used for centuries in Asian medicine. Anua incorporates it in high concentrations (70-77 %) in its flagship formulas. Its action involves several inflammatory mediators simultaneously - which distinguishes it from conventional soothing active ingredients (allantoin, bisabolol, panthenol) with a single mechanism.
01
Multi-targeted plant anti-inflammatory
Quercetin (histamine + TNF-α inhibitor) - Chlorogenic acid (COX-2 inhibitor, antioxidant) - (COX-2 inhibitor, antioxidant) - (COX-2 inhibitor, antioxidant) Hyperoside (a flavonoid that protects endothelial cells) - Isoquerciténe (modulator of the cutaneous microbiome). Action on four inflammatory mechanisms simultaneously.
02
Concentrated corrective actives
In addition to the Heartleaf, the Anua catalog features some serious concentrations: niacinamide 10 %, tranexamic acid 4 %, azelaic acid 10 %, BHA 2 %. A K-beauty approach that is both soothing (Heartleaf) and corrective (nominal active ingredients in dermatological concentrations).
Editorial reading
«Heartleaf is a serious plant-based anti-inflammatory active - not just a plant flavor added for storytelling. It ranks above centella asiatica in terms of direct anti-inflammatory activity, but below niacinamide in terms of independent clinical data.»
Formulatory deciphering
Visit four active compounds of Heartleaf.
Each flavonoid and phenolic acid present in Houttuynia cordata acts on a distinct inflammatory mediator. The synergy of these molecules explains the marked soothing effect documented.
| Assets | Documented mechanism | Clinical benefits |
|---|---|---|
| Quercetin | Histamine inhibitor + TNF-α (inflammatory mediators) | Reduces redness, soothes reactive skin |
| Chlorogenic acid | Antioxidant, COX-2 inhibitor (pro-inflammatory enzyme) | Protects against oxidative stress, anti-inflammatory |
| Hyperoside | Flavonoid antioxidant, endothelial cell protection | Reinforces microcirculation and radiance |
| Isoquerciténe | Anti-inflammatory, skin microbiome modulator | Reducing inflammatory imperfections |
Formulatory vigilance
Topical PDRN: promise vs. reality.
Visit PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) has serious evidence for medical injections. In topical application, the problem is fundamental: it is a macromolecule whose topical cutaneous penetration is limited by the stratum corneum barrier.
| Assets | Injectable proofs | Topical evidence |
|---|---|---|
| PDRN (salmon DNA fragments) | Solids - healing, regeneration | Limited - low stratum corneum penetration |
| Niacinamide 4-10 % | N/A (topical route) | Very strong - dermatological consensus |
| Hyaluronic acid | N/A (topical route) | Very solid - biomimetic humectant |
| Tranexamic acid 4 % | N/A (topical route) | Solid - documented melasma |
Key points: in PDRN Anua serum, what really moisturizes is the niacinamide 4 % and thehyaluronic acid - not necessarily the PDRN itself. PDRN is a marketable ingredient that justifies the price, but its main action probably remains on the surface.
Overview
The 10 products analyzed, at a glance.
Ranked by descending BeautyDecoded score. Four BD discoveries absent from the usual rankings (BHA 2 %, LHA Peeling Gel, Peach Niacin Milk, Heartleaf 70 % Lotion).
| Product | Note | Opinions | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Azelaic Acid 10 % Soothing Serum | 5,00/5 | 1 | Redness 93.5 (catalog record) |
| BHA 2 % Gentle Exfoliating Toner | 5,00/5 | 1 | Imperfections 85 (BD discovery) |
| Heartleaf 70 % Daily Lotion | 5,00/5 | 1 | Universal profile - sensitive skin 0 |
| Heartleaf 77 % Soothing Toner | 4,90/5 | 10 | TOP - Soothing reference (10 reviews) |
| Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 % Serum | 4,55/5 | 10 | TOP redness 91.8 + spots 85 |
| Peach 77 Niacin Conditioning Milk | 4,50/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 79.9 (record - BD discovery) |
| Peach 70 % Niacinamide Serum | 4,25/5 | 4 | Mild alternative to NIA 10 % serum |
| Heartleaf LHA Moisture Peeling Gel | 4,00/5 | 2 | Gentle Pore Scrub (BD discovery) |
| Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil | 3,75/5 | 6 | Dry skin only - oily skin 0 |
| Heartleaf 70 % Intense Calming Cream | 1,50/5 | 1 | FLOP - Texture too heavy |
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews. The ratings and review excerpts displayed come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 % and Heartleaf Toner have the most significant review volumes (10 each); the others have 1 to 6 reviews - interpret with caution.
Family 01
range Heartleaf - appeasement
The flagship range. Five products based on Houttuynia cordata at 70-77 %, from reference toner to intensive cream (FLOP).
Heartleaf 77 % Toner
TOP - Soothing reference
Heartleaf 77 % Soothing Toner
77 % Heartleaf extract in a light aqueous formula. Note BeautyDecoded 4.90/5 out of 10 reviews - the best in the Anua catalog. Universal profile: 84-91 for all skin types. Redness score 76.5 - the highest in the Anua catalog for a toner.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
84
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
+1,5
Redness
76,5
Anti-aging
51
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +1.5). Universal profile 84-91 for all skin types. Morning + evening use validated on combination sensitive skin; body use reported (dry skin that pulls).
«The Anua soothing reference - rated 4.90/5 out of 10 reviews. Redness score 76.5, sensitive skin +1.5. Exceptional value for money (€22/250 ml). Generous, free-use format. Light, ultra-tolerant texture for all skin types, including rosacea and eczema».»
User feedback
«Indispensable - immediate soothing action. I won't be able to do without it.»
«A real nugget! Soothes and moisturizes immediately. I even use it on my body when my skin feels tight.»
«Sensitive, combination skin - morning and night after cleansing. Destroys all my other toners.»
«Removes redness, very light like water. Great for oily skin.»
«Hydrates my dry skin very well. I really like this toner.»
Verdict - TOP. Rated 4.90/5 out of 10 reviews. Redness score 76.5 - sensitivity +1.5. 22 €/250 ml - best value in the Anua catalog.
Cleansing oil
Normal to dry skin only
Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil
Heartleaf cleansing oil. Dry skin score 84 and normal to dry skin score 91 - optimal profile for these skin types. Oily skin score 0 - strictly contraindicated on this profile (formula too rich in lipids).
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
0
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
0
Sensitive skin
-0,5
Anti-aging
54,4
⚠️ Sensitivity verdict
Slight caution recommended (score: -0.5). Ocular tingling reported in one feedback - to be monitored if applied too close to the eye.
«Suitable for normal to dry skin (scores 84-91). Oily skin score 0: strictly contraindicated - a makeup-removing oil on oily, acne-prone skin is counter-productive. Score 3.75/5 out of 6 reviews with polarized feedback. Fragrance-free: good tolerance signal.»
User feedback
«My favorite makeup remover oil - impeccable makeup removal waterproof mascara, no greasy film, doesn't blur the view.»
«Super makeup remover for 1 year. Good texture, doesn't sting the eyes, removes waterproof mascara.»
«Correct, gentle, no greasy film. I like the fact that it's fragrance-free.»
«Mitigated - I don't think I'll buy it back.»
Verdict - Optimal profile for normal to dry skin (84-91). Oily skin 0: contraindicated. Eye tingling reported.
LHA Gentle Scrub
Comic discovery - pores
Heartleaf LHA Moisture Peeling Gel
LHA (lipohydroxamic acid - a milder derivative of salicylic acid) + Heartleaf in a physico-chemical exfoliating gel. Slower penetration than conventional BHA, superior tolerance. Oily skin score 84, normal to oily skin 91 - optimal profile.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
67,9
Oily skin
84
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
+0,15
Anti-aging
24,6
Imperfections
8,5
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.15). LHA gentler than classic BHA - introduce gradually even with this positive score.
«Relevant for oily skin looking for gentle daily or weekly exfoliation. Pore action confirmed in both returns. Imperfections score 8.5: modest - maintenance rather than corrective exfoliant. Two insufficient reviews for definitive conclusion.»
User feedback
«Does not irritate the skin and cleanses thoroughly. Fine grains - pleasant.»
«Pores less visible and cleaner from first use. Thick but melting and foaming texture.»
Verdict - Oily skin score 84 - sensitivity +0.15. Confirmed pore action. Gentle LHA. 2 insufficient reviews for definitive conclusion.
Light daily lotion
Comic discovery - universal profile
Heartleaf 70 % Daily Lotion
70 % Heartleaf extract as a daily lotion - the intermediate version between a toner (77 %) and a cream, thicker than a toner but less rich than a cream. Occupies the intermediate space in multi-layer K-beauty routines.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
0
Redness
46,8
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0). Perfect universal profile - 84-91 for all skin types. Redness score 46.75 for a soothing primer.
«Excellent algorithmic profile - universal, sensitive skin 0. Potentially very good value for money (€18/200 ml). To be explored for K-beauty multi-layer routines. One opinion: impossible to conclude on perceived effectiveness.»
User feedback
«Very soothing moisturizing lotion. Perfect.»
Verdict - Perfect universal profile. Sensitive skin 0. 18 €/200 ml - potentially excellent value for money. 1 review insufficient for definitive conclusion.
Heartleaf 70 intensive cream %
FLOP - Texture too heavy
Heartleaf 70 % Intense Calming Cream
Heartleaf 70 «intense» cream %. Note BeautyDecoded 1.50/5 - the lowest in the Anua catalog, based on a single feedback statistic. Feedback confirms that the texture is too heavy for sensitive combination skin, and that the soothing effect is less than the positioning promises.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
49
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
56
Sensitive skin
+0,75
Redness
31,4
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Algorithmic score +0.75 - good. But in contradiction with the user experience: algorithmic tolerance does not guarantee sensorial/profile adequacy.
«FLOP confirmed - rating 1.50/5 (the lowest in the catalog), too heavy texture attested, modest redness score (31.45) for a «calming» cream. The rich oily phase is poorly balanced with the actual soothing active ingredients. Avoid on combination to oily skin. Prefer Heartleaf 80 % Soothing Cream (lighter formula)».»
User feedback
«Combination and sensitive skin: texture too heavy. Not particularly soothing. Not suitable for my skin type.»
Verdict - FLOP. Score 1.50/5 (the lowest in the catalog). Texture too heavy. Redness score 31.45 disappointing for «calming». Prefer Heartleaf 80 % Soothing Cream.
Family 02
range Niacinamide - spots & redness
Corrective serum with dermatological concentrations. Redness score 91.8 and spots 85 - exceptional. Reference for melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Niacinamide 10 % + tranexamic acid 4 %
TOP - Anti-spot & redness
Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 % Serum
Niacinamide 10 % (inhibits the transfer of melanosomes - the final stage of pigmentation) + tranexamic acid 4 % (inhibits keratinocyte-melanocyte interaction, blocks melanin-activating plasminogen - particularly documented in melasma). Redness score 91.8 - exceptional, 85 spots, universal profile (84-91 on all types).
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
84
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
+0,65
Redness
91,8
Stains
85
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.65). Universal profile 84-91 for all skin types. The signal of over-concentrated niacinamide in very sensitive skin is clinically relevant - in these profiles, 5 % is sufficient.
Patience required: results to 8-16 weeks minimum. Consistency is essential. SPF 50+ in the morning is mandatory for all anti-stain treatments.
«Anua reference anti-spot/redness corrector - exceptional redness 91.8 and spots 85, universal profile, rated 4.55/5 out of 10 reviews. Hypersensitive skin: monitor tolerance to 10 % niacinamide (slight transient redness possible).»
User feedback
«Excellent serum. Reactive skin, imperfections, melasma: perfect. I pair it with copper peptides.»
«Perfect for dark spots - effective without aggressing. I use it in the evening because of its slightly thick texture.»
«Moisturizes very well, pleasant texture. Well suited.»
«Mitigated: a little sticky. I prefer to use niacinamide and tranexamic acid separately.»
«10 % niacinamide too high for my sensitive skin. Tranexamic acid reduces redness but irritation with niacinamide at this concentration.»
Verdict - TOP. Redness score 91.8 (exceptional) and spots 85. Score 4.55/5 out of 10 reviews. Must be patient (8-16 weeks). Monitor tolerance if hypersensitive skin.
Family 03
range Azelaic Acid - intensive anti-redness
Azelaic acid 10 % in liquid galenic - the product with the highest BeautyDecoded scores in the Anua catalog. Redness 93.5 and blemishes 88.4.
Azelaic acid 10 % + AH
TOP - Best catalog scores
Azelaic Acid 10 % Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
Azelaic acid 10 % + hyaluronic acid in a liquid formula. Redness score 93.5 - Anua catalog record. Blemish score 88.4 - among the highest. Sensitive skin score +1.75 - excellent. The liquid galenic is the main innovation: unlike thick suspensions (Azelaic Acid Suspension The Ordinary, unsuitable for oily skin), this light texture is compatible with acne-prone or oily skin.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
77
Oily skin
84
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
+1,75
Redness
93,5
Imperfections
88,4
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +1.75) - one of the highest in the catalog. The azelaic acid + Heartleaf combination is coherent: two anti-inflammatories with different mechanisms acting synergistically.
«The best BeautyDecoded scores in the Anua catalog - redness 93.5 and imperfections 88.4, sensitive skin +1.75. Liquid galenics distinguish this formula from the competition (The Ordinary, Typology) on oily skin. Only one review recorded - insufficient to conclude, but exceptional formulatory scores».»
Source : Draelos ZD et al. Azelaic acid 15 % gel in the treatment of rosacea. J Drugs Dermatol. 2006.
User feedback
«Registered notice - comments not available in the database at the time of analysis.»
Verdict - TOP. Redness 93.5 and blemishes 88.4 (Anua records). Sensitive skin +1.75. Liquid galenic superior to competitors. 1 review insufficient for definitive conclusion.
Family 04
range BHA - pore exfoliator
Salicylic acid 2 % in toner format - K-beauty alternative to Paula's Choice 2 % BHA. BeautyDecoded discovery.
Exfoliating Toner BHA 2 %
Comic discovery - imperfections 85
BHA 2 % Gentle Exfoliating Toner
BHA 2 % (salicylic acid) in toner format. Blemish score 85 - one of the highest in the catalog. Profile oily skin 84 and normal to oily skin 91 - optimal. The adjective «Gentle» in the name suggests a less aggressive pH or associated comfort active ingredients to limit irritation.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
80,5
Oily skin
84
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-1
Imperfections
85
Anti-aging
49,3
⚠️ Sensitivity verdict
Slight caution recommended (score: -1). Consistent with BHA 2 %. Gradual introduction recommended - start 2-3 times a week.
«Excellent BeautyDecoded scores (blemishes 85, oily skin 84-91) consistent with the BHA indication. Sensitive skin score -1: gradual introduction recommended. Comparison with reference: BHA 2 % Paula's Choice (imperfections score 85, calibrated pH documented). Insufficient opinion to conclude, but 200 ml format at €20 - potentially excellent value for money.»
User feedback
«Registered notice - comments not available in the database at the time of analysis.»
Verdict - Blemishes 85 - oily skin 84-91. Consistent with BHA 2 %. 1 opinion insufficient for conclusion. Gradual introduction recommended.
Family 05
range Peach - sweetened niacinamide
Peach extract (natural vitamins C and E, antioxidants) + niacinamide. Milder alternative to Niacinamide 10 % + TXA for skin that cannot tolerate 10 %.
Peach extract serum + niacinamide
Mild niacinamide alternative
Peach 70 % Niacinamide Serum
70 % peach extract + niacinamide in serum. Universal profile (84-91 on all types). Redness score 72.25 and spots 62.05 - relevant. Niacinamide concentration not shown nominally - contrasts with Niacinamide 10 % + TXA serum showing its concentrations. Represents the’gentler alternative for skin that cannot tolerate 10 % niacinamide.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
84
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
+0,65
Redness
72,3
Stains
62
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.65). Universal profile (84-91 on all types). Suitable for hypersensitive skin that cannot tolerate 10 % niacinamide.
«The gentlest niacinamide option in the Anua catalog. Redness score 72.25 and blotchiness 62.05. The combination of peach extract (rich in natural vitamins C and E, antioxidants) + niacinamide is consistent. Four registered reviews - comments not available in database at time of analysis.»
User feedback
«4 notices registered - comments not available in the database at the time of analysis.»
Verdict - Redness score 72.25 and spots 62. Universal profile. Milder alternative to Niacinamide 10 % + TXA for hypersensitive skin.
Peach extract milk 77 %
Découverte BD - anti-aging 79.9
Peach 77 Niacin Conditioning Milk
77 % peach extract + niacinamide in milk. Anti-ageing score 79.9 - the highest in the Anua catalog. Dry skin score 84 and normal to dry skin score 91 - optimal profile. Oily skin score 73.5 - also suitable. Surprising and remarkable anti-aging score for a milk: suggests significant anti-aging active ingredients (probably niacinamide at high concentration + antioxidants from peach).
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
73,5
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
87,5
Sensitive skin
-0,35
Anti-aging
79,9
⚠️ Sensitivity verdict
Slight caution recommended (score: -0.35). Optimal profile for normal to dry skin.
«The best anti-aging score in the Anua catalog (79.9) - remarkable for a milk. Optimal profile for normal to dry skin. To be explored for light anti-aging K-beauty routines. Only one registered review - insufficient for definitive conclusion.»
User feedback
«Very good toner - combination skin: adds radiance, moisturizes well, smooth texture. Available on Jejuskin or Stylevana.»
Verdict - Anti-ageing 79.9 (catalog record). Optimal profile for normal to dry skin. 1 insufficient review for definitive conclusion.
Putting it into practice
Typical routines according to skin profile.
Four protocols built with the Anua catalog. Multi-layer K-beauty architecture: light layers stacked rather than a single rich cream.
Reactive - rosacea
Skin reactive - rashes
Morning
Heartleaf 77 % Toner · Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 % - SPF 50+
Evening
Heartleaf 77 % Toner · Azelaic Acid 10 % Serum - soothing cream
Acne - blemishes
Skin acne-prone - shiny
Morning
BHA 2 % Gentle Toner (2-3×/week) - Heartleaf 77 % Toner - SPF 50+
Evening
BHA 2 % Gentle Toner · Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 % - soothing cream
Anti-spot - melasma
Anti-stains - shine
Morning
Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 % · Peach 77 Niacin Milk - SPF 50+ mandatory
Evening
Heartleaf 77 % Toner · Azelaic Acid 10 % Serum · Niacinamide 10 % + TXA 4 %
Multi-coat K-beauty
Skin normal to dry
Morning
Heartleaf 70 % Daily Lotion - SPF 50+
Evening
Heartleaf 77 % Toner · Heartleaf 70 % Daily Lotion · Peach 77 Niacin Milk
Frequently asked questions
Everything you need really know.
Is Heartleaf more effective than centella asiatica?
They have different, complementary mechanisms. The gotu kola (madecassoside, asiaticoside) is more healing and barrier repair. The Heartleaf (quercetin, chlorogenic acid) is even more important direct anti-inflammatory via COX-2 and histamine mediators. For reactive, inflamed skin: Heartleaf more relevant. For skin in post-treatment healing phase: centella more relevant. Combined, they cover both aspects.
Is PDRN Anua serum worth the price?
The price is partly justified by PDRN as a rare marketing ingredient. But the serum's real effectiveness comes mainly from the niacinamide 4 % and thehyaluronic acid - two active ingredients available at much lower prices in other marques. Topical PDRN does not have the same evidence base as PDRN used in injectable mesotherapy.
Can Niacinamide + TXA Anua serum replace Mela B3 La Roche-Posay?
The main assets are identical (niacinamide + tranexamic acid). Both are references on hyperpigmentation - with the same demand for patience: 8 to 16 weeks minimum. Mela B3 LRP adds HEPES (a gentle exfoliant that enhances penetration). The Anua serum has similar BeautyDecoded scores (redness 91.8, spots 85). At the same price, both are relevant.
What's the difference between Heartleaf 77 % Toner and Heartleaf 70 % Daily Lotion?
Visit Toner 77 % is a light, aqueous formula that can be used in several layers, as a pre-serum, or as a soothing mist. The Lotion 70 % is thicker - an «emulsion» version between toner and cream. In a multi-layer K-beauty routine: Toner first, Lotion second. The Toner is more versatile and has more reviews (10 vs. 1). The Lotion is a BeautyDecoded discovery to be confirmed with more feedback.
Are Anua products compatible with pregnancy?
Visit toner Heartleaf 77 % is generally compatible. Visit serum azelaic acid 10 % is generally tolerated during pregnancy. The niacinamide is compatible. L’tranexamic acid topical use during pregnancy requires medical approval. BHA 2 % applied broadly to the face should be discussed with your doctor. Always consult before making any routine changes.
Where to buy Anua in France
Anua is not distributed in French pharmacies. Available points of purchase : YesStyle, Stylevana, StyleKorean, Jejuskin and Amazon (official Anua sellers). European K-beauty sites are starting to list it. Price is competitive vs. other K-beauty correctors. Check the seller's authenticity - counterfeits are possible on non-approved marketplaces.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded is an application that helps you choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to the’INCI analysis. The application analyzes formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. It does not constitute a medical consultation.
Further information
Anua product analysis on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Information for educational purposes only, not a substitute for medical consultation. BeautyDecoded is a cosmetic analysis application using artificial intelligence and is not a medical diagnostic tool. The results presented depend on the user's diligence and skin type. This article does not constitute a commercial partnership with the Anua brand.
