Biotherm opinion: a doctor's analysis of this brand

Blue Pro-Retinol, Life Plankton, Waterlover SPF - analysis of 6 BeautyDecoded products and real user reviews

Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026

Information : This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded application allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to artificial intelligence.

The 6 Biotherm products - BeautyDecoded overview

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Biotherm - from Pyrenean thermal plankton to marine biotechnology (since 1952)

Biotherm is a French brand founded in 1952 at Molitg-les-Bains in the Pyrenees by Dr Jos Jullien (hydrobiologist), Georges and Jeanine Marissal. Its founding asset: the Thermal Plankton from Pyrenean thermal springs - a micro-organism rich in 35 nutrients (vitamins, amino acids, lipids) with skin-regenerating properties. Acquired by the L'Oréal group (Luxury division), Biotherm manufactures its products in France in Hauts-de-France, with 30 years of plankton research, 11 scientific publications and 8 active patents.

Since 2007, the Biotech Plankton™ is reproduced in the laboratory using biotechnology (fermogenesis) - enabling sustainable production without drawing on natural sources. Since 2012, Biotherm has been committed to protecting the oceans through its «Water Lovers» and its Waterlover range (the first certified sun protection without filters harmful to coral reefs, launched after 9 years of research).

Biotech Plankton™ - the signature active ingredient deciphered

Biotherm's Plankton de Vie™ is composed of microscopic unicellular organisms from Pyrenean thermal springs. Its richness: over 35 essential nutrients - proteins, vitamins (A, B, C, E), amino acids, carbohydrates, lipids and trace elements. Biotherm attributes to it properties that stimulate epidermal cell regeneration.

«Biotherm is a brand I value for three clinical reasons. Firstly, Pro-Retinol: a scientifically documented form of retinol with high anti-aging scores (73-80) in BeautyDecoded - the two Blue Therapy products are formulatively the most serious in the catalog analyzed. Secondly, the Waterlover commitment: the development of UV filters without oxybenzonate or octinoxate after 9 years of research meets a real medical requirement - these two molecules are identified as potential endocrine disruptors. Thirdly, the Aquasource signal: the notice documenting an unfavorable reformulation is valuable - it illustrates why BeautyDecoded analyzes current INCI formulations and not memories of past products.»

- Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber

Biotherm reviews - product-by-product analysis (BeautyDecoded data)

Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream - Smoothing Anti-Aging Eye Contour

5.00/5  - 2 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~35-45 € € (in French)

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin  (score: -3)

Expert deciphering

Eye contour with Pro-Retinol (stabilized retinol + Biotech Plankton™). Anti-ageing score: 79.9 - the best in the Biotherm catalog analyzed in BeautyDecoded. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin: 91 - profile suitable for non-oily profiles. Oily skin score: 0 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: -3.0 - unsuitable, consistent with the presence of retinol in the periorbital area. Score 5/5 on 2 reviews.

Pro-Retinol is a modified form of retinol (esterified or encapsulated) which reduces immediate irritation while retaining documented anti-aging efficacy. Its mechanism of action remains identical to that of native retinol: stimulation of collagen synthesis and acceleration of cell renewal via nuclear receptors RAR/RXR (Kafi R et al., Arch Dermatol, 2007). Anti-ageing score 79.9: the highest score in the Biotherm catalog analyzed - confirms the formulating power of this active ingredient for the eye contour area.

The 2 BeautyDecoded reviews are precise and clinically informative: one, from a 59-year-old user, reports a perfect galenic formula for dehydrated contours and mentions the «sea spray» scent - Biotherm's olfactory signature. The other confirms hydration without irritation and cautiously points out the lack of hindsight on fine lines. Both signals are consistent with a well-formulated pro-retinol: rapid moisturizing effect, corrective effect on fine lines over several weeks.

Source : Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007.

My analysis

«Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream is the product with the highest anti-ageing score in the Biotherm catalog in BeautyDecoded (79.9). Score 5/5 on 2 reviews confirming hydration and tolerance. Dry skin 84. Sensitive skin score -3.0: not suitable for hyper-reactive profiles - gradual introduction recommended. Oily skin 0: unsuitable. Pro-Retinol is a real differentiator».»

Verdict: TOP anti-aging catalog - Anti-aging 79.9 (best). Dry skin 84. Sensitive skin -3.0: caution. Rated 5/5 on 2 reviews. Characteristic sea spray scent. Oily skin 0.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)

5.0/5  «Really smoothing eye contour - perfect galenic for a dehydrated eye contour, I'm 59. Pleasant sea spray scent. Convincing immediate effect.»

5.0/5  «Perfect eye contour hydration without irritation. On the fine lines side, I don't have enough experience but it seems to do the job.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Blue Therapy Pro-Retinol Moisturizing Cream - Daily Balanced Anti-Aging

4.25/5  - 2 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~45-55 € € (excl. VAT)

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin  (score: -4)

Expert deciphering

Daily moisturizing cream with Pro-Retinol + Biotech Plankton™. Near-universal score: 80-91 on all skin types. Sensitive skin score: -4.0 - unsuitable, consistent with the presence of retinol and probably fragrance. Anti-aging score: 73.95 - very high for a day cream. Imperfections score: 25.5 and blemishes: 27.2. Score 4.25/5 out of 2 reviews.

Blue Therapy is Biotherm's historic anti-aging range - repositioned with Pro-Retinol to unify corrective action (retinol) and regeneration (Biotech Plankton™). Anti-aging score 73.95: the second-highest anti-aging score in the Biotherm catalog analyzed, consistent with the presence of retinol in a day cream. The near-universal profile (80-91) is a formulatory asset - the cream can suit several skin types without being a rich formula.

The 2 BeautyDecoded reviews are qualified but positive: «difficult first days of adaptation, then I'm fine with it» (light retinol purging signal - expected and transitory) and «non-greasy texture that penetrates quickly, clearer skin». These two signals are characteristic of a well-tolerated retinol formula: a 2-4 week adaptation phase followed by a visible improvement in skin texture.

My analysis

«Blue Therapy Crème Hydratante Pro-Rétinol is Biotherm's best-formulated day cream in BeautyDecoded - anti-aging 73.95, near-universal profile 80-91, rating 4.25/5 on 2 reviews confirming initial adaptation then improvement. Sensitive skin -4.0: unsuitable without gradual introduction. Must be combined with SPF 50+ in the morning (photosensitizing retinol)».»

Verdict: TOP day cream - Anti-ageing 73.95. Near-universal profile 80-91. Sensitive skin -4.0. Initial adaptation confirmed (2-4 weeks). SPF 50+ mandatory. Rating 4.25/5.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)

4.3/5  «I recommend it - suits me well despite a difficult first few days of adaptation.»

4.3/5  «Perfect for combination skin - non-greasy texture that penetrates quickly. Clearer skin since I started using it. I recommend it.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Waterlover Face Sunscreen SPF 50+ - Protection Solaire Respect Océan

5.00/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22-30 €

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score : -2)

Expert deciphering

SPF 50+ sun cream that respects aquatic life. Oily skin score: 91 and normal to dry/oily skin score: 91 - almost universal profile. Dry skin score: 73.5 - correct. Sensitive skin score: -2.0 - slight caution, due to chemical UV filters. Anti-ageing score: 29.75 - relevant for an SPF with antioxidant actives. Score 5/5 on 1 review.

The Waterlover range was developed after 9 years of research to create the first sunscreen that does not harm aquatic life - without oxybenzonate or octinoxate (filters toxic to coral reefs). This is Biotherm's «Blue Beauty» commitment formalized in a formula: to protect the skin AND the oceans. This positioning is formally consistent with the UV filters used.

The single BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is particularly expressive: «doesn't shine like a luminous, doesn't give you pimples, doesn't leave white marks, and the pompom on the Garonne - doesn't sting the eyes.» This positive testimonial covers the four quality criteria for an SPF face: finish, tolerance, absence of white film and ophthalmic tolerance. Sensitive skin score -2.0: slight caution despite this good feedback - 1 insufficient review.

My analysis

«Waterlover Face Sunscreen SPF 50+ is the best SPF in the Biotherm catalog in BeautyDecoded - almost universal profile 73-91, rating 5/5 out of 1 review covering the four key criteria (finish, tolerance, absence of white film, does not sting the eyes). Sensitive skin -2.0: slight caution. Formula without toxic filters for coral reefs (Blue Beauty commitment). 1 insufficient opinion.»

Verdict: TOP SPF - Rated 5/5 (1 review). Near-universal profile 91. Sensitive skin -2.0. Non-oily finish, no white film, does not sting the eyes. No harmful reef filters.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

5.0/5  «Perfect - doesn't shine, doesn't give you pimples, doesn't leave white marks on the skin. And the icing on the Garonne cake: doesn't sting the eyes.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Waterlove Hydrating Sun Milk SPF 50+ - Sun Milk for Face and Body

5.00/5  - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22-28 € (french)

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score: -1.75)

Expert deciphering

Moisturizing sun lotion SPF 50+ for body and face. Score for normal to dry and normal to oily skin: 91 - almost universal. Dry skin score: 73.5 - fair. Sensitive skin score: -1.75 - slight caution. Anti-aging score: 25.5. Score 5/5 on 1 review.

This sun milk is part of the same «Water Lovers» philosophy as the face cream - formulated without filters harmful to coral reefs. The difference between this lotion and the Waterlover Face Sunscreen is the galenic structure: the lotion is designed for large quantities of face and body application, with a more fluid texture. Sensitive skin score -1.75 slightly less negative than Face Sunscreen (-2.0): formula slightly better tolerated.

The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is concise and positive: «fluid, quickly becomes invisible, moisturizing. Leaves a pretty glow to be +/- powdered.» This texture and finish signal - invisible, moisturizing, glow without excess - is characteristic of a good city suntan lotion. 1 review insufficient to conclude.

My analysis

«Waterlove Hydrating Sun Milk SPF 50+ is a multi-purpose sun milk for body and face - almost universal profile (73-91), rated 5/5 out of 1 review confirming fluidity, invisibility and hydration. Sensitive skin -1.75: slight caution. Blue Beauty formula without harmful filters. 1 insufficient review. »

Verdict: Multi-purpose sun lotion - Rated 5/5 (1 review). Profile 73-91. Sensitive skin -1.75. Fluid, invisible, moderate glow. No harmful reef filters. 1 insufficient review.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

5.0/5  «Perfect for the city - fluid, quickly becomes invisible, moisturizing. Leaves a pretty glow to +/- powder.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Life Plankton Elixir - The Plankton of Life at 5%

4.00/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~55-70 €

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin  (score: -3)

Expert deciphering

Elixir concentrated in Plankton of Life™ at 5%. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin: 91 - suitable profile. Dry skin score: 17.5 - unsuitable, an important signal for a product positioned as «universal». Sensitive skin score: -3.0 - unsuitable. Anti-ageing score: 48.45. Score 4/5 on 1 review.

Life Plankton™ is Biotherm's signature active ingredient - a set of single-celled micro-organisms from Pyrenean thermal springs, reproduced in the laboratory since 2007 using biotechnology (fermogenesis). Rich in over 35 nutrients (vitamins, amino acids, carbohydrates, lipids, trace elements), it is presented by Biotherm as a stimulator of cell regeneration. 30 years of research, 11 scientific publications and 8 active patents document this active ingredient according to L'Oréal.

BeautyDecoded's only review (4/5) is positive on hydration and texture (soft, comfortable skin), but raises a major practical problem: repeated stock-outs which caused the user to stop using it. This availability signal is extra-formatory but real. Dry skin score 17.5: surprising for a «universal elixir» - probably linked to a light, oil-free gel-water formula sufficient for very dry skin.

My analysis

«Life Plankton Elixir is formulated around Biotherm's signature active ingredient - anti-aging 48.45, oily and combination skin profile (84-91). Dry skin 17.5: unsuitable - surprising for a «universal» product. Score 4/5 out of 1 positive review on hydration, but reporting stock shortages. Sensitive skin -3.0: unsuitable. Light formula better suited to non-dry profiles».»

Verdict: Signature active ingredient, limited profile - Rated 4/5 (1 review). Oily skin 91, dry skin 17.5. Anti-ageing 48.45. Sensitive skin -3.0. Out of stock reported. 1 insufficient review.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

4.0/5  «I love this serum, which moisturizes well and makes skin soft and comfortable. Too often out of stock, I stopped using it.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Aquasource Eye Contour Gel - Reformulation Problématique

2.00/5  - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~25-35 € € (in French)

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin  (score: -8.75)

Expert deciphering

Aquasource toning eye contour gel. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin score: 91. Dry skin score: 0 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: -8.75 - unsuitable, the most negative score in the Biotherm catalog analyzed. Imperfections score: 63.75 - high and unusual for an eye contour product. Anti-aging score: 51.0. Score 2/5 out of 1 review.

Sensitive skin score -8.75: a worrying value for skincare for the periorbital area, which is naturally reactive. This very negative score suggests the presence of preservatives, alcohol or irritating active ingredients in high concentrations - or a complex fragrance. Dry skin score 0: unsuitable, consistent with a gel (light, lipid-free texture).

The only BeautyDecoded review (2/5) is very informative, as it documents a reformulation: «Eye contour that I used for a very long time. The change in formula meant that it was no longer suitable for my skin. It used to be fresh and moisturizing. This is no longer the case.» This signal - a long-time loyalist who no longer finds the original properties after reformulation - is clinically relevant and not contradictory with the sensitive skin score -8.75. 1 insufficient notice.

My analysis

«Aquasource Eye Contour Gel disappoints - rated 2/5 out of 1 review documenting unfavorable reformulation (loss of freshness and hydration). Sensitive skin score -8.75: the most negative in the Biotherm catalog. Dry skin score 0: unsuitable. Imperfections 63.75: unexpected for this product. Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream (anti-aging 79.9) is the best alternative in the Biotherm catalog.»

Verdict: Disappointing post-reformulation - Rated 2/5 (1 review). Sensitive skin -8.75 (the lowest in the catalog). Dry skin 0. Reformulation reported. Prefer Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

2.0/5  «It was good before - eye contour that I used for a very long time. The change in the formula means it no longer suits my skin. It used to be fresh and moisturizing. That's not the case anymore.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

BeautyDecoded summary: what the 8 reviews say about Biotherm

Biotherm vs alternatives - positioning in luxury pharmacy

Biotherm is positioned in the affordable luxury from selective pharmacies (€25-70), between the daily care positioning of La Roche-Posay and the premium positioning of Clarins. Its differentiating strength in BeautyDecoded: the anti-aging scores of Pro-Retinol formulas (73-80) are among the highest in the base for this price segment, and Waterlover SPFs offer a universal profile with documented environmental commitments.

Frequently asked questions - Biotherm reviews

Is Biotherm a good brand?

Biotherm is a serious French brand with a 70-year scientific history (thermal plankton from the Pyrenees, 30 years of biotechnology, 11 scientific publications). BeautyDecoded lists 6 products with 8 reviews. Positive signal: Pro-Rétinol formulas (anti-aging 73-80) are among the strongest in the luxury segment analyzed. Waterlover SPFs are unanimously rated 5/5. Negative signal: reformulated Aquasource (2/5) and generally negative sensitive skin scores (presence of fragrance).

Is the Blue Therapy Pro-Retinol range effective?

This is the strongest range in the Biotherm catalog analyzed in BeautyDecoded. The day cream boasts an anti-aging score of 73.95 (second in the catalog) and an almost universal profile (80-91). The eye contour scores 79.9 (first in the catalog). The 4 combined opinions confirm results: initial adaptation lasting a few days (expected for a retinol), then improved texture and clearer skin. Pro-Retinol is a scientifically validated form of retinol. SPF 50+ mandatory in the morning.

Are Biotherm Waterlover suncare products well formulated?

Yes - it's one of the highlights of the BeautyDecoded catalog. Waterlover Face Sunscreen SPF 50+ (profile 91 almost universal) and Waterlove Hydrating Sun Milk (73-91) both score 5/5 on their unique reviews. The oxybenzonate- and octinoxate-free formula is documented after 9 years of research. The sensitive skin score is slightly negative (-1.75 to -2.0) - linked to the chemical UV filters - which is usual for this type of product.

Is Aquasource still as good as before?

According to BeautyDecoded's sole review of Aquasource Eye Contour Gel, no - a reformulation is documented: «it used to be fresh and moisturizing, not so now.» This unfavorable reformulation signal is extra-formulaic, but important. BeautyDecoded analyzes the current INCI formula - the sensitive skin score -8.75 for the current eye contour is the most negative in the Biotherm catalog. For Aquasource face gel, there is insufficient data in the BeautyDecoded database.

Where can I buy Biotherm products in France?

Biotherm is distributed in luxury boutiques (Sephora, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché), online at biotherm.fr, and in selective parapharmacies. Prices are standardized - there are few promotions in selective distribution. Pro-Retinol formulas and SPF Waterlover are available in pharmacies in certain chains. The biotherm.fr website offers samples for purchase - recommended for testing before commitment.

What is the BeautyDecoded application?

BeautyDecoded uses artificial intelligence to help you choose the right cosmetics for your skin type. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 6 Biotherm products are referenced in the database with 8 user reviews in total - a limited volume but with precise user profiles. It does not constitute a medical consultation.

BeautyDecoded - The science of skin. Without marketing.

Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber.