Brand reviews - BeautyDecoded analysis
Dermaceutic.

Dermaceutic analysis by a physician and opinions of beautydecoders

French cosmeceutical brand born from the expertise of TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels, reserved for doctors. Seven consumer products analyzed through the Activ Retinol, Tri Vita C, Anti-taches ranges and the Panthenol Ceutic and Activabiome discoveries - with their BeautyDecoded scores and 15 real-life user feedbacks.

Author Dr Sylvain David
Expertise Independent cosmetic analysis
Products analyzed 7 references - 5 ranges
Compiled opinions 15 BeautyDecoded returns
7
Products analyzed
15
User reviews
93,5
Anti-âge max (Activ Retinol 1,0%)
+2,25
Maximum sensitivity (Panthenol Ceutic)

Analyze a Dermaceutic product on your skin profile.

The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.

Application available on iOS and Android

TCA peels - occupational origin.

Visit TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is a «medium» peel - it reaches the superficial dermis. This is what distinguishes it from superficial AHA peels and justifies the credibility of the entire consumer range. The cosmeceutical range is designed to prepare and maintain the peeling protocol.

01

Four professional concentrations

Cosmo Peel 15 % (introduction, dull complexion) → 18 % (accustomed skins, moderate photoaging) → 20 % (moderate wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne scars) → 30 % (pronounced wrinkles, advanced photoaging). Intermediate tool between cosmeceuticals and lasers.

02

For doctors only

TCA peels are medical devices reserved for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. Do not attempt to self-medicate. The technical know-how acquired from these peels is used to structure the formulation of our consumer skin care products - retinols, vitamin C, anti-dark spot.

Editorial reading

«Dermaceutic peels are indicated for profiles with advanced photoaging, settled acne scars and hyperpigmentation resistant to topical care. TCA is the tool between cosmeceuticals and lasers. Dermaceutic's consumer range is consistent as a preparation and maintenance for peeling protocols.»

The 4 peelings Professional CATs - concentrations and indications.

For dermatologists and aesthetic physicians only. Presented here for information purposes, to help you understand the brand's founding technical expertise.

Professional peeling TCA concentration Main indication
Cosmo Peel 15 % TCA 15 % First session - introduction, dull complexion, small spots
Cosmo Peel 18 % TCA 18 % Accustomed skin, moderate photoaging, irregular texture
Cosmo Peel 20 % TCA 20 % Moderate wrinkles, settled hyperpigmentation, acne scars
Cosmo Peel 30 % TCA 30 % Marked wrinkles, advanced photoaging, senescent skin
Exclusive medical device. Dermaceutic TCA peels are reserved for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. Do not attempt to self-medicate - risk of dermal burns, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring.

One of the best retinol formulas of the accessible market.

Activ Retinol Dermaceutic is one of the top 3 retinol serums on the accessible French market - alongside SVR Ampoule [A] and Paula's Choice Retinol 1 %. Three criteria set it apart: pure retinol at displayed concentration, integrated anti-irritant active ingredients, airless bottle.

Criteria Activ Retinol 0.5 % Activ Retinol 1.0 %
Target profile Beginners - first retinol experience Experienced profiles perfectly tolerant of 0.5 %
Recommended introduction 1 evening/week - 4 weeks before increasing 1 evening/3 days - identical progression
Complementary assets Ceramides + vit C derivative + vit E + panthenol + allantoin Identical - same formula, only % varies
Bottle Airless pump - optimum protection Airless pump - idem
Anti-aging comic score 90,1 93.5 (catalog record)
Score BD spots 88,4 93.5 (catalog record)
Price ~50 € / 30 ml ~60 € / 30 ml

Intelligent progression on three levels.

Dermaceutic's anti-spot range is structured from intensive local to gentle global, then to retinol combination - allowing progression according to tolerance and the nature of spots.

Product Main assets Indication and use
Yellow Cream Kojic acid 1,6 % + alpha-arbutin + licorice + Morus alba Recalcitrant localized blemishes - local use, 1 evening/d
Radiance Cream Kojic + arbutin + niacinamide 3 % + BHA 2 % + mandel 2 % Dull complexion + diffuse blemishes - gentle overall use, sensitive skin
Mela Crime Same base Radiance + retinol 0.04 % + citric acid Superior stage - stubborn stains, skin accustomed to active ingredients

Absent products source article.

The analysis of BeautyDecoded data has identified two clinically remarkable products that did not appear in the initial analysis.

01

Activabiome - Night Cream

Oily skin score 84-91, imperfections 76.5. Documented aesthetic doctor's recommendation. Definitive adoption on combination skin with imperfections. Sensitive skin score -7.75 - exclusively for non-reactive normal to oily skin.

02

Panthenol Ceutic - Balm

Sensitive skin score +2.25 - best of Dermaceutic catalog. Redness score 76.5. Post-retinol/retinoin/AHA recovery care documented in the notice. Vaseline-like texture, non-comedogenic.

The 7 products analyzed, at a glance.

Average rating 4.86/5. Six out of seven products rated 5/5 - strong formulatory homogeneity. Panthenol Ceutic (4/5) is positioned as a specific, non-daily recovery treatment.

Product Note Opinions Verdict
Activ Retinol 1.0 % 5,00/5 3 Anti-ageing + spots 93.5 (records)
Activ Retinol 0.5 % 5,00/5 5 Anti-ageing 90.1 - favourably compared
Tri Vita C30 - Vitamin C 5,00/5 2 Anti-ageing + spots 90.1 - melasma effectiveness
Yellow Cream - Anti-spot 5,00/5 2 Spots + blemishes 76.5
C25 Cream - Vitamin C 5,00/5 1 Spots 76.5 - sensitive skin -0.5
Activabiome - Night cream 5,00/5 1 Imperfections 76.5 - BD discovery
Panthenol Ceutic - Balm 4,00/5 1 Sensitivity +2.25 (record) - BD discovery
ℹ️
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews. The Activ Retinol 0.5 % (5 reviews) is the strongest statistical base in the catalog. Ratings and review excerpts shown are from BeautyDecoded users - not verified.
Family 01

range Activ Retinol - corrective anti-aging

Two concentrations 0.5 % and 1.0 %, same formula - pure retinol + ceramides + vitamin C derivative + vitamin E + panthenol + allantoin. Airless bottle. Anti-ageing and blemish catalog records.

Serum retinol 0.5 %

Activ Retinol 0.5 %

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (5 reviews) ~50 € / 30 ml
TOP - Compared favorably vs G&G, TO, PC

Pure retinol 0.5 % + ceramides + vitamin C derivative + vitamin E + panthenol + allantoin. Airless bottle. Anti-aging score 90,1 and stains 88.4 - one of the best in the catalog. Dry skin score 88.2 and normal to dry skin 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score -2.5 - slight caution consistent with pure retinol.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
88,2
Oily skin
59,5
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
70
Sensitive skin
-2,5
Anti-aging
90,1
⚠️ Sensitivity verdict Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.5). Consistent with pure retinol. Gradual introduction mandatory.
ℹ️
Introduction protocol. 1 evening out of 3 for the first 2 weeks, progressing to 1 evening out of 2 if well tolerated. SPF 50+ morning mandatory. Contraindicated during pregnancy and breast-feeding.
«Activ Retinol 0.5 % is the introductory retinol reference in the Dermaceutic catalog - rated 5/5 out of 5 reviews, compared favorably with Geek & Gorgeous, The Ordinary and Paula's Choice by the same user. Anti-aging score 90.1 and blemishes score 88.4. Airless bottle: a decisive formulatory quality criterion for retinol conservation. »
User feedback
★★★★★«Great serum to get started with retinol. I used it 1 night out of 2 at first, then every night.»
★★★★★«My favorite retinol. After Geek & Gorgeous, The Ordinary and Paula's Choice, this retinol is my favorite. Effective and easy to find.»
★★★★★«Very good to start with - 1 evening out of 3. Gradual overall improvement in my skin, no more imperfections and improvement in fine lines. Skin is also more even.»
★★★★★«The perfect retinol - the EU is going to limit it to 0.3 %, which is a great shame for such an effective product.»
Verdict - TOP. Rated 5/5 out of 5 reviews. Anti-ageing 90.1, spots 88.4. Compared favorably vs competitors. Airless bottle. Sensitivity score -2.5: gradual introduction mandatory.
Serum retinol 1.0 %

Activ Retinol 1.0 %

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (3 reviews) ~60 € / 30 ml
TOP - Anti-ageing + spots 93.5 (records)

Same formula as 0.5 % with doubled concentration. Anti-aging score 93,5 and stains 93.5 - the best of the Dermaceutic catalog. Dry skin score 88.2. Sensitive skin score -3.7 - slightly more cautious than 0.5 %, consistent with higher concentration.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
88,2
Oily skin
59,5
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
70
Sensitive skin
-3,7
Anti-aging
93,5
⛔ Sensitivity verdict Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -3.7). Progression from 0.5 % mandatory before switching to 1.0 %.
«Activ Retinol 1.0 % is the most powerful retinol serum in Dermaceutic's catalog (anti-aging and blemishes 93.5). Reserved for experienced profiles who have tolerated 0.5 % well for 3+ months. Confirmed efficacy on acne and hyperseborrhea in addition to anti-aging. Remarkable signal: sensitive skin tolerates 1.0 % after a gradual increase from 0.5 % - validation of the progression protocol. »
User feedback
★★★★★«Perfect for oily skin - concentrated serum, ideal as anti-aging and against pimples. Beware of irritation: 1 evening out of 2 max with SPF the next day.»
★★★★★«The best is the tube format with airless pump. You don't need much product. Moisturize your skin at the same time.»
★★★★★«Very good retinol. My sensitive skin tolerates it in 1 evening out of 3. I had started with 0.5 % before switching to this one.»
Verdict - TOP. Rated 5/5 out of 3 reviews. Anti-aging and blemishes 93.5 (best in catalog). Acne + anti-aging effectiveness confirmed. Progression since 0.5 % mandatory.
Family 02

Vitamin C - two formulas for two profiles

Tri Vita C30 (pure AA 15 % + ascorbysilane - tolerant skin) and C25 Cream (methylsilanol pectinate 25 % - skin intolerant to pure AA).

Serum vitamin C 30 %

Tri Vita C30 - Vitamin C Serum

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (2 reviews) ~70 € / 30 ml
TOP - Anti-ageing + spots 90.1

Pure AA 15 % + ascorbysilane 14.5 % + vitamin E + ferulic acid. Anti-aging score 90,1 and stains 90.1 - among the best in the catalog. Score for oily skin 84 and normal to oily skin 91. Dry skin score 0 - contraindicated (alcohol in 4th INCI position). Sensitive skin score -7.0 - unsuitable.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
0
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
49
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-7,0
Anti-aging
90,1
⛔ Sensitivity verdict Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -7.0). Alcohol in 4th INCI position: contraindicated for dry skin (score 0).
«Tri Vita C30 is the best vitamin C serum in Dermaceutic's catalog - double formula pure AA + derivative, anti-aging and spots 90.1, confirmed melasma efficacy. Dry skin score 0: contraindicated (alcohol in 4th INCI). Sensitive skin score -7.0. Reserved for non-sensitive oily to combination skin. The reported odor is a signal of partial oxidation - use promptly.»
User feedback
★★★★★«I alternate it with tretinoin (effederm). Only in the evening. No irritation. Effect on my melasma spots.»
★★★★★«After more than 6 months, complexion more radiant and brighter. Only downside: its smell.»
Verdict - TOP. Anti-ageing and spots 90.1. Rated 5/5. Confirmed melasma effectiveness. Alcohol: contraindicated for dry, sensitive skin. Odor to be monitored.
Derived vitamin C cream 25 %

C25 Cream - Antioxidant concentrate

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (1 review) ~50 € / 30 ml
TOP - Vitamin C for sensitive skin

Methylsilanol pectinate 25 % + vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) + vitamin E + panthenol B5. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - almost optimal for a vitamin C treatment, vs. -7.0 for Tri Vita C30. Spots score 76.5. Normal to oily skin score 87.5. Alternative for skin that cannot tolerate pure AA.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
63,7
Oily skin
63
Normal to dry skin
63,7
Normal to oily skin
87,5
Sensitive skin
-0,5
Stains
76,5
⚠️ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution recommended (score: -0.5). The best tolerance vitamin C skincare in the Dermaceutic catalog.
«C25 Cream is Dermaceutic's best vitamin C option for sensitive skin (sensitive skin -0.5 vs -7.0 for Tri Vita C30). Results in 2 weeks on spots and fine lines confirmed in the only review. Optimal sensitive skin score among the vitamin C skincare products in the catalog - this is precisely its advantage for skin that has not tolerated pure AA. 1 review statistically insufficient.»
User feedback
★★★★★«This vitamin C cream is really top-notch - my favourite! Applied in the morning, real difference in 2 weeks on my spots AND my fine lines. Light texture that penetrates quickly.»
Verdict - TOP (sensitive and intolerant skin AA pur). Sensitive skin -0.5. Spots 76.5. 2 weeks results confirmed. 1 opinion statistically insufficient.
Family 03

Anti-spot, acne &. barrier recovery

Yellow Cream (recalcitrant localized blemishes), Activabiome discovery (mixed-skin acne) and Panthenol Ceutic discovery (record sensitivity +2.25 - post-activity recovery care).

Local depigmenting concentrate

Yellow Cream - Depigmenting Concentrate

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (2 reviews) ~35 € / 15 ml
TOP - Blemishes 76.5

Kojic acid 1,6 % + alpha-arbutin + licorice + Morus alba + AHA/BHA. Blemish score 76,5 and stains 76.5 - high. Dry skin score 84 - suitable. Normal to dry skin score 91 - optimal. Sensitive skin score -6.5 - unsuitable.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
63
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
87,5
Sensitive skin
-6,5
Imperfections
76,5
⛔ Sensitivity verdict Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -6.5). For local use only on limited areas, not for global application.
«Yellow Cream is Dermaceutic's benchmark local anti-spot concentrate (blemishes and spots 76.5). BeautyDecoded reviews perfectly illustrate the clinical difference: recent scars (quick results) vs established blemishes (8-16 weeks mandatory). Sensitive skin score -6.5: local use only on limited areas, not overall application. Kojic acid + alpha-arbutin cover two distinct tyrosinase inhibition mechanisms - documented anti-spot synergy.»
User feedback
★★★★★«Incredible on my recent acne scars - visible elimination week after week.»
★★★★★«I've been testing it for 1 month every evening for my spots - no results yet. I'm going to stick with it because blemishes unfortunately take a very long time. Pleasant product to apply.»
Verdict - TOP. Stains and blemishes 76.5. Rating 5/5. Fast results on recent scars. Established blemishes: patience 8-16 weeks. Sensitive skin -6.5: local use only.
Acne night cream

Activabiome - Night Cream

★★★★★ 5,00/5 (1 review) ~45 € / 30 ml
Découverte BD - Aesthetic doctor

Night cream for acne-prone skin. Score for oily skin 84 and normal to oily skin 91 - optimal profile. Blemish score 76,5 and stains 76,5 - high. Sensitive skin score -7.75 - the lowest in the Dermaceutic catalog. BeautyDecoded discovery - Aesthetic doctor recommendation.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
58,8
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
65,8
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-7,75
Imperfections
76,5
⛔ Sensitivity verdict Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -7.75). The lowest in the Dermaceutic catalog. For normal to oily non-sensitive skin only.
«Activabiome is Dermaceutic's discovery from the BeautyDecoded base - rating 5/5, confirmed aesthetic doctor recommendation, definitive adoption on combination skin with imperfections. Oily skin score 84-91, imperfections 76.5. Not mentioned in source article. Sensitive skin score -7.75: exclusively non-reactive normal to oily skin.»
User feedback
★★★★★«Recommended by a cosmetic doctor, I no longer go without it for my combination skin with imperfections.»
Verdict - TOP (oily acne-prone skin). BeautyDecoded discovery. Rating 5/5. Medical recommendation. Imperfections 76.5. Sensitive skin -7.75: contraindicated for sensitive skin.
Post-active repair balm

Panthenol Ceutic - Repair Balm

★★★★☆ 4,00/5 (1 review) ~28 € / 30 ml
Découverte BD - Sensitivity +2.25 (record)

Repairing balm with panthenol. Sensitive skin score +2.25 - Dermaceutic catalog record. Dry skin score 84 and normal to dry skin score 91 - optimal profile. Redness score 76.5 - high. Oily skin score 0 - contraindicated. Discover BeautyDecoded.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
0
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
0
Sensitive skin
+2,25
Redness
76,5
✅ Sensitivity verdict Unreservedly suitable (score: +2.25). Dermaceutic catalog record. Confirms post-irritation reparative use.
🔍
Specific use: recovery care. Optimal clinical positioning - not a daily skin care product, but a barrier repair product with strong active ingredients (retinol, tretinoin, concentrated AHAs). Application around the eyes or mouth for areas of intense dryness. Vaseline-like texture, confirmed non-comedogenic.
«Panthenol Ceutic is the most interesting discovery in the Dermaceutic catalog - sensitive skin +2.25 (catalog record) and redness 76.5. Confirmed optimal use: recovery care after concentrated tretinoin, retinol or AHAs. Oily skin 0: for dry skin only. Rating 4/5 reflects specific, not daily, use.»
User feedback
★★★★«Vaseline-like texture - nice to apply, doesn't aggravate my acne. Soothing after tretinoin abuse or drying treatment. Ideal for use around the eyes or mouth in cases of severe dryness.»
Verdict - Reference recovery treatment. Sensitive skin +2.25 (catalog record). Redness 76.5. Post-irritation use confirmed. Oily skin 0: contraindicated. BeautyDecoded discovery.

Visit four flaws from the Dermaceutic range.

An honest analysis requires the identification of documented formulatory limitations. Here are four objective points of attention for the Dermaceutic range, based on INCI analysis and BeautyDecoded scores.

01

Alcohol in various formulas

Alcohol is present in Tri Vita C30 (4th INCI position), C25 Cream (end of formula) and Foamer 15. For dry, sensitive or damaged skin, alcohol potentiates the dehydrating effect of AHAs and vitamin C. BD data confirms: Tri Vita C30 dry skin score = 0 (contraindicated).

02

Methoxycinnamate sun filter

Dermaceutic SPFs use methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) - a UV filter whose regulatory status is under scrutiny in Europe. For a range that treats photoaging, an SPF with new-generation filters (Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A Plus) would be more coherent. Prefer an external SPF (Anthelios UVMune 400).

03

High prices on certain products

Dermaceutic formulas are positioned between €30 and €70 for 30 ml. This price is consistent for products with concentrated active ingredients (Activ Retinol, Tri Vita C30) but less obvious for basic moisturizers (Hyal Ceutic).

04

Hyal Ceutic too rich for oily skin

The cream Hyal Ceutic is presented by the brand as suitable for combination to oily skin - a questionable positioning. The quantity of vegetable oils and film-forming agents is high for this profile and risks clogging pores. For dry to very dry skin only.

Everything you need really know.

Dermaceutic or Eneomey for glycolic acid?
Both marquess have serious, documented AHAs. Main difference: Eneomey mounts up to 30 % AHAs for the mass market, Dermaceutic caps at 15 %. For a beginner or intermediate profile: equivalent. For a senescent profile with advanced photoaging: the Stim Renew 30 Eneomey is more powerful. For the AHA + cleanser combination in a simple routine: the Foamer 15 Dermaceutic is one of the best galenic formulations on the market.
Will Dermaceutic retinol disappear under the new EU regulations?
The new European regulations limits cosmetic retinol to 0.3 % in facial care products. This directly affects Activ Retinol 0.5 % and 1.0 %. Some BeautyDecoded users have already reported this problem in their reviews. Dermaceutic offers reformulations via its professional channels. Check production date and regulatory compliance on products purchased.
How to combine Dermaceutic retinol with anti-spot skincare products?
Protocol: Activ Retinol evenings without exfoliant, Yellow Cream or Radiance Cream alternating on other evenings. Do not use AHA and retinol on the same evening. Morning: Tri Vita C30 or C25 Cream +. SPF 50+ (essential, otherwise the entire anti-stain treatment will be thwarted).
Is Dermaceutic compatible with pregnancy?
No for most of the range. Retinol (Activ Retinol, Mela Crime): contraindicated during pregnancy. Concentrated AHAs (Foamer 15, Turn Over) : not recommended as a precaution. Vitamin C (Tri Vita C30, C25) Generally accepted, to be confirmed with a doctor. Compatible products : Panthenol Ceutic (sensitive skin +2.25) and Oxy Biome (niacinamide + probiotics). Consult your doctor.
Are Dermaceutic TCA peels available to private individuals?
No. TCA peels (Cosmo Peel 15 %, 18 %, 20 %, 30 %) are medical devices reserved for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. Do not attempt to self-medicate - risk of dermal burns, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring. Dermaceutic's consumer range is designed to prepare and maintain these peeling protocols.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded is an application that helps you choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to the’INCI analysis. The application analyzes formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 7 Dermaceutic products are referenced with 15 reviews. Remarkable fact: 6 out of 7 products have a score of 5/5 (except Panthenol Ceutic at 4/5 - specific post-active use). It does not constitute a medical consultation.

Plastic and aesthetic surgeon. Founder of BeautyDecoded.

15 yearsclinical expertise
200 000+YouTube subscribers
70 000+Instagram & TikTok followers

«Dermaceutic presents strong formulatory homogeneity (average rating 4.86/5 in BeautyDecoded). Activ Retinol 0.5 % and 1.0 % rank in the top 3 of accessible French retinol serums - favorably compared to Geek & Gorgeous, The Ordinary and Paula's Choice by users. Panthenol Ceutic (sensitivity +2.25, catalog record) is the BD base's best discovery for post-activity recovery. Four formulatory drawbacks identified: alcohol in several formulas, methoxycinnamate filter, high price, Hyal Ceutic poorly positioned.»

Analyze a Dermaceutic product on your skin profile.

The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.

Application available on iOS and Android
Dr Sylvain David Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded

Information for educational purposes only, not a substitute for medical consultation. BeautyDecoded is an artificial intelligence cosmetic analysis application and is not a medical diagnostic tool. Dermaceutic TCA peels are medical devices reserved for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians - do not attempt to self-medicate. This article does not constitute a commercial partnership with the Dermaceutic brand.