French cosmeceutical brand born from the expertise of TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels, reserved for doctors. Seven consumer products analyzed through the Activ Retinol, Tri Vita C, Anti-taches ranges and the Panthenol Ceutic and Activabiome discoveries - with their BeautyDecoded scores and 15 real-life user feedbacks.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Visit TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is a «medium» peel - it reaches the superficial dermis. This is what distinguishes it from superficial AHA peels and justifies the credibility of the entire consumer range. The cosmeceutical range is designed to prepare and maintain the peeling protocol.
Cosmo Peel 15 % (introduction, dull complexion) → 18 % (accustomed skins, moderate photoaging) → 20 % (moderate wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne scars) → 30 % (pronounced wrinkles, advanced photoaging). Intermediate tool between cosmeceuticals and lasers.
TCA peels are medical devices reserved for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. Do not attempt to self-medicate. The technical know-how acquired from these peels is used to structure the formulation of our consumer skin care products - retinols, vitamin C, anti-dark spot.
«Dermaceutic peels are indicated for profiles with advanced photoaging, settled acne scars and hyperpigmentation resistant to topical care. TCA is the tool between cosmeceuticals and lasers. Dermaceutic's consumer range is consistent as a preparation and maintenance for peeling protocols.»
For dermatologists and aesthetic physicians only. Presented here for information purposes, to help you understand the brand's founding technical expertise.
| Professional peeling | TCA concentration | Main indication |
|---|---|---|
| Cosmo Peel 15 % | TCA 15 % | First session - introduction, dull complexion, small spots |
| Cosmo Peel 18 % | TCA 18 % | Accustomed skin, moderate photoaging, irregular texture |
| Cosmo Peel 20 % | TCA 20 % | Moderate wrinkles, settled hyperpigmentation, acne scars |
| Cosmo Peel 30 % | TCA 30 % | Marked wrinkles, advanced photoaging, senescent skin |
Activ Retinol Dermaceutic is one of the top 3 retinol serums on the accessible French market - alongside SVR Ampoule [A] and Paula's Choice Retinol 1 %. Three criteria set it apart: pure retinol at displayed concentration, integrated anti-irritant active ingredients, airless bottle.
| Criteria | Activ Retinol 0.5 % | Activ Retinol 1.0 % |
|---|---|---|
| Target profile | Beginners - first retinol experience | Experienced profiles perfectly tolerant of 0.5 % |
| Recommended introduction | 1 evening/week - 4 weeks before increasing | 1 evening/3 days - identical progression |
| Complementary assets | Ceramides + vit C derivative + vit E + panthenol + allantoin | Identical - same formula, only % varies |
| Bottle | Airless pump - optimum protection | Airless pump - idem |
| Anti-aging comic score | 90,1 | 93.5 (catalog record) |
| Score BD spots | 88,4 | 93.5 (catalog record) |
| Price | ~50 € / 30 ml | ~60 € / 30 ml |
Dermaceutic's anti-spot range is structured from intensive local to gentle global, then to retinol combination - allowing progression according to tolerance and the nature of spots.
| Product | Main assets | Indication and use |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow Cream | Kojic acid 1,6 % + alpha-arbutin + licorice + Morus alba | Recalcitrant localized blemishes - local use, 1 evening/d |
| Radiance Cream | Kojic + arbutin + niacinamide 3 % + BHA 2 % + mandel 2 % | Dull complexion + diffuse blemishes - gentle overall use, sensitive skin |
| Mela Crime | Same base Radiance + retinol 0.04 % + citric acid | Superior stage - stubborn stains, skin accustomed to active ingredients |
The analysis of BeautyDecoded data has identified two clinically remarkable products that did not appear in the initial analysis.
Oily skin score 84-91, imperfections 76.5. Documented aesthetic doctor's recommendation. Definitive adoption on combination skin with imperfections. Sensitive skin score -7.75 - exclusively for non-reactive normal to oily skin.
Sensitive skin score +2.25 - best of Dermaceutic catalog. Redness score 76.5. Post-retinol/retinoin/AHA recovery care documented in the notice. Vaseline-like texture, non-comedogenic.
Average rating 4.86/5. Six out of seven products rated 5/5 - strong formulatory homogeneity. Panthenol Ceutic (4/5) is positioned as a specific, non-daily recovery treatment.
| Product | Note | Opinions | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Activ Retinol 1.0 % | 5,00/5 | 3 | Anti-ageing + spots 93.5 (records) |
| Activ Retinol 0.5 % | 5,00/5 | 5 | Anti-ageing 90.1 - favourably compared |
| Tri Vita C30 - Vitamin C | 5,00/5 | 2 | Anti-ageing + spots 90.1 - melasma effectiveness |
| Yellow Cream - Anti-spot | 5,00/5 | 2 | Spots + blemishes 76.5 |
| C25 Cream - Vitamin C | 5,00/5 | 1 | Spots 76.5 - sensitive skin -0.5 |
| Activabiome - Night cream | 5,00/5 | 1 | Imperfections 76.5 - BD discovery |
| Panthenol Ceutic - Balm | 4,00/5 | 1 | Sensitivity +2.25 (record) - BD discovery |
Two concentrations 0.5 % and 1.0 %, same formula - pure retinol + ceramides + vitamin C derivative + vitamin E + panthenol + allantoin. Airless bottle. Anti-ageing and blemish catalog records.
Pure retinol 0.5 % + ceramides + vitamin C derivative + vitamin E + panthenol + allantoin. Airless bottle. Anti-aging score 90,1 and stains 88.4 - one of the best in the catalog. Dry skin score 88.2 and normal to dry skin 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score -2.5 - slight caution consistent with pure retinol.
Same formula as 0.5 % with doubled concentration. Anti-aging score 93,5 and stains 93.5 - the best of the Dermaceutic catalog. Dry skin score 88.2. Sensitive skin score -3.7 - slightly more cautious than 0.5 %, consistent with higher concentration.
Tri Vita C30 (pure AA 15 % + ascorbysilane - tolerant skin) and C25 Cream (methylsilanol pectinate 25 % - skin intolerant to pure AA).
Pure AA 15 % + ascorbysilane 14.5 % + vitamin E + ferulic acid. Anti-aging score 90,1 and stains 90.1 - among the best in the catalog. Score for oily skin 84 and normal to oily skin 91. Dry skin score 0 - contraindicated (alcohol in 4th INCI position). Sensitive skin score -7.0 - unsuitable.
Methylsilanol pectinate 25 % + vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) + vitamin E + panthenol B5. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - almost optimal for a vitamin C treatment, vs. -7.0 for Tri Vita C30. Spots score 76.5. Normal to oily skin score 87.5. Alternative for skin that cannot tolerate pure AA.
Yellow Cream (recalcitrant localized blemishes), Activabiome discovery (mixed-skin acne) and Panthenol Ceutic discovery (record sensitivity +2.25 - post-activity recovery care).
Kojic acid 1,6 % + alpha-arbutin + licorice + Morus alba + AHA/BHA. Blemish score 76,5 and stains 76.5 - high. Dry skin score 84 - suitable. Normal to dry skin score 91 - optimal. Sensitive skin score -6.5 - unsuitable.
Night cream for acne-prone skin. Score for oily skin 84 and normal to oily skin 91 - optimal profile. Blemish score 76,5 and stains 76,5 - high. Sensitive skin score -7.75 - the lowest in the Dermaceutic catalog. BeautyDecoded discovery - Aesthetic doctor recommendation.
Repairing balm with panthenol. Sensitive skin score +2.25 - Dermaceutic catalog record. Dry skin score 84 and normal to dry skin score 91 - optimal profile. Redness score 76.5 - high. Oily skin score 0 - contraindicated. Discover BeautyDecoded.
An honest analysis requires the identification of documented formulatory limitations. Here are four objective points of attention for the Dermaceutic range, based on INCI analysis and BeautyDecoded scores.
Alcohol is present in Tri Vita C30 (4th INCI position), C25 Cream (end of formula) and Foamer 15. For dry, sensitive or damaged skin, alcohol potentiates the dehydrating effect of AHAs and vitamin C. BD data confirms: Tri Vita C30 dry skin score = 0 (contraindicated).
Dermaceutic SPFs use methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) - a UV filter whose regulatory status is under scrutiny in Europe. For a range that treats photoaging, an SPF with new-generation filters (Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A Plus) would be more coherent. Prefer an external SPF (Anthelios UVMune 400).
Dermaceutic formulas are positioned between €30 and €70 for 30 ml. This price is consistent for products with concentrated active ingredients (Activ Retinol, Tri Vita C30) but less obvious for basic moisturizers (Hyal Ceutic).
The cream Hyal Ceutic is presented by the brand as suitable for combination to oily skin - a questionable positioning. The quantity of vegetable oils and film-forming agents is high for this profile and risks clogging pores. For dry to very dry skin only.
«Dermaceutic presents strong formulatory homogeneity (average rating 4.86/5 in BeautyDecoded). Activ Retinol 0.5 % and 1.0 % rank in the top 3 of accessible French retinol serums - favorably compared to Geek & Gorgeous, The Ordinary and Paula's Choice by users. Panthenol Ceutic (sensitivity +2.25, catalog record) is the BD base's best discovery for post-activity recovery. Four formulatory drawbacks identified: alcohol in several formulas, methoxycinnamate filter, high price, Hyal Ceutic poorly positioned.»
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Information for educational purposes only, not a substitute for medical consultation. BeautyDecoded is an artificial intelligence cosmetic analysis application and is not a medical diagnostic tool. Dermaceutic TCA peels are medical devices reserved for dermatologists and aesthetic physicians - do not attempt to self-medicate. This article does not constitute a commercial partnership with the Dermaceutic brand.