TLC Framboos, C-Firma, Protini - Suspicious 6 and BeautyDecoded data
Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026
This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded application allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to artificial intelligence.
Drunk Elephant systematically eliminates 6 categories of ingredients from all its formulations. Here's my medical assessment of each exclusion - 4 out of 6 are scientifically justified, 2 are partially or excessively generalized.
| Ingredient avoided | Justification DE | Clinical nuance |
| Essential oils | Allergens, irritants for sensitive skin | Validated - EOs contain regulated allergens. |
| Synthetic fragrances | Irritants, microbiome disruptors | Validated - leading cause of cosmetic allergy. |
| Drying alcohols | Desiccants, barrier disruptors | Validated on dry/sensitive skin - limited impact on oily skin. |
| SLS / sulfates | Aggressive surfactants, damaged barrier | Validated - SLS alter the hydrolipidic film. |
| Silicones Caution: | Occlusive film, potential comedogens | Partially founded - non-occlusive volatile silicones. Heavier silicones. |
| Chemical filters Caution: | Endocrine disruptors, toxic substances | Excessive - only oxybenzone is controversial. Most organic filters are safe. |
«The Suspicious 6 philosophy is more rigorous than most clean beauty approaches because it's based on real data. It's not pure greenwashing. But the total exclusion of chemical filters is a generalization that harms their users» sun protection."
- Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon and Researcher
The main criticism is not formulative - the formulas are generally well-constructed. It's the value for money.
| Product Drunk Elephant | Price | Comparable alternative | Alternative price |
| TLC Framboos (AHA+BHA 30 ml) | ~87 € | BHA 2% + AHA 8% Paula's Choice (2×118 ml) | ~70 € |
| C-Firma Vitamin C (30 ml) | ~82 € | C15 Super Booster Paula's Choice (30 ml) | ~55 € |
| Protini Polypeptide Cream (50 ml) | ~65 € | Buffet Multi-Peptide The Ordinary (30 ml) | ~16 € |
| Lala Retro Whipped Cream (50 ml) | ~65 € | Cicaplast B5 Balm La Roche-Posay (40 ml) | ~8 € |
Warning: Drunk Elephant's added value is real: calibrated pH, consistent Suspicious 6, quality packaging. But the active ingredients (glycolic acid, vitamin C, peptides) are the same molecules found in Paula's Choice or The Ordinary. What we're paying for is the galenic design and the absence of the 4 justified Suspicious 6.
| Product | Note BeautyDecoded | Notice (n) | Verdict |
| Protini Polypeptide Cream | 5,00 / 5 | 2 | ~65 € - TOP anti-âge 85, sensitivity 0 |
| Lala Retro Whipped Cream | 5,00 / 5 | 4 | ~65 € - TOP rich cream for dry skin |
| Bora Barrier Repair Cream | 5,00 / 5 | 1 | ~55 € - TOP découverte (redness 58,65) |
| Protini Resurfacing Serum | 5,00 / 5 | 1 | ~75 € - TOP triple action 86.7/76.5/76.5 |
| TLC Framboos Night Serum | 3,50 / 5 | 2 | ~87 € - TOP (tolerant skin) / -7.25 |
| C-Firma Vitamin C | 3,63 / 5 | 4 | ~82 € - Stains 90,1, odor reported |
| Warning: C-Tango Eye Cream | 3,00 / 5 | 1 | ~62 € - Effectiveness questioned (1 review) |
| Warning: A-Shaba Eye Serum | 3,00 / 5 | 1 | ~62 € - Rancid odor reported, product returned |
| Warning: B-Hydra Hydration Serum | 2,50 / 5 | 1 | ~38 € - Sensitivity +1.0 but 1 negative opinion |
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
Please note: BeautyDecoded Drunk Elephant score: 10 products, very low review volumes (1-4). Algorithmic scores (INCI formulation) are reliable. User scores are indicative - 2 discoveries not included in source article: Bora Barrier Repair Cream and Protini Resurfacing Serum.
4/5 3.50/5 - 2 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~87 € / 30 ml | Range : T.L.C.
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -7.3 |
| Anti-aging | 79.9 |
| Imperfections | 76.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 76.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -7.25)
Warning: AHA+BHA: night-time use only. SPF 50+ the following morning is mandatory. Do not combine with retinol on the same evening. Start 2 evenings/week. Avoid use on very reactive skin.
Expert deciphering
AHA T.L.C. complex (glycolic + tartaric + lactic + citric acid) + BHA 1 % (salicylic acid) at pH 3.5. Anti-aging score: 79.9, blemishes: 76.5 and spots: 76.5 - exceptional tri-action profile. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin: 91 - very suitable profile for dry skin despite acids, thanks to soothing extracts (raspberry, cactus).
Sensitive skin score: -7.25 - the lowest in the Drunk Elephant catalog analyzed. This score is consistent with the AHA+BHA combination at pH 3.5: reserved for skin that has already established tolerance to chemical exfoliants. The AHA+BHA combination in the same serum is rare and relevant: simultaneous surface exfoliation (AHA) + intrafolicular exfoliation (liposoluble BHA).
BeautyDecoded rating 3.50/5 based on 2 reviews only - insufficient basis for conclusion. The two reviews are polarized: well-formulated, non-aggressive products on one side, redness and pimples on the other. This division precisely reflects the sensitivity score -7.25: effective on tolerant skin, problematic on reactive skin.
Source : Sharad J. Glycolic acid peel therapy. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2013.
My analysis
«Framboos TLC is the most technically advanced Drunk Elephant product - AHA+BHA combined at pH 3.5, anti-aging 79.9, blemishes 76.5, spots 76.5. Sensitivity score -7.25: reserved for profiles that have established their tolerance to exfoliants. For tight budgets: BHA 2% Paula's Choice + AHA 8% Paula's Choice produce comparable results at a lower cost.»
Verdict: TOP (tolerant skin) - AHA+BHA combined pH 3.5. Exceptional tri-action profile. Sensitivity score -7.25: contraindicated for reactive skin. Premium price.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)
4/5 «Good, non-aggressive serum. Drunk Elephant products are well formulated.»
3/5 «Caused redness and even more pimples on my sensitive skin.»
4/5 3.63/5 - 4 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~82 € / 30 ml | Range : C-Firma
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 80.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 87.5 |
| Sensitive skin | -2.8 |
| Anti-aging | 90.1 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 90.1 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Warning: Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.75)
Expert deciphering
15 % pure ascorbic acid + 1 % vitamin E + 0.5 % ferulic acid at pH 3.3 - the benchmark antioxidant trio in proportions validated by clinical studies. Anti-ageing score: 90.1 and dark spots: 90.1 - among the highest in the Drunk Elephant catalog. The reconstitution system (separate powder + liquid) guarantees maximum AA freshness before the first opening.
Sensitive skin score: -2.75 - slight caution, consistent with the acidic pH 3.3. Oily skin score: 80.5 - suitable for a vitamin C serum. BeautyDecoded score 3.63/5 out of 4 reviews - mixed signal dominated by two recurring critical points in the reviews: unpleasant fragrance and high price.
The strong odor reported in the reviews is inherent to the partially oxidizing pure ascorbic acid - a paradoxical signal for a system supposed to guarantee freshness. This odor does not necessarily indicate inefficiency, but may indicate thermal or light sensitivity despite precautions. One user compares it favorably to SkinCeuticals' C-Ferulic - the market benchmark.
Source : Pinnell SR et al. Topical vitamin C and E synergistic. Dermatol Surg. 2005.
My analysis
«C-Firma is formally excellent - spot and anti-aging score of 90.1 confirmed. But the BeautyDecoded score (3.63/5) is held back by two repeated signals: smell and price. The smell of oxidizing vitamin C is a real limitation of pure ascorbic acid-based formulas, even the best stabilized ones. More affordable alternative: C15 Super Booster Paula's Choice (€55) with an equivalent formula without reconstitution system.»
Verdict: TOP - Anti-aging and spots 90.1. Unique reconstitution system. Odor noted in reviews. Premium price (€82/30 ml).
BeautyDecoded user reviews (4 reviews in total)
5/5 «One of the best pure vitamin C serums with C-Ferulic. The reference on the market.»
3/5 «Didn't irritate my skin but the smell is quite off-putting.»
3/5 «Very expensive for what it is. Very unpleasant smell. Didn't have any problems with oxidation by keeping it away from light.»
5/5 5.00/5 - 2 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~65 € / 50 ml | Range : Protini
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 55.3 |
| Oily skin | 77.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 55.3 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.0 |
| Anti-aging | 85.0 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 4.3 |
| Stains | 5.1 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0)
Expert deciphering
9 peptide complexes + 10 % lactic acid (mild AHA) at pH 4. Anti-ageing score: 85.0 - the highest in Drunk Elephant's catalog for creams. Oily skin score: 77 and normal to oily skin score: 91 - suitable profile. Sensitive skin score: 0 - perfectly suited, consistent with pH 4 (gentler than acid exfoliants), lactic acid and the absence of Suspicious 6.
Lactic acid is the best-tolerated AHA - higher molecular weight than glycolic, slower penetration, moisturizing action simultaneous with light exfoliation. The combination of peptides and lactic acid is biologically coherent: lactic acid enhances peptide penetration, optimizing the condition of the stratum corneum.
BeautyDecoded score perfect (5/5 out of 2 reviews). Dry skin score: 55.3 - moderate, consistent with a gel-cream texture rather than a rich cream. For very dry skin, Lala Retro (dry skin score 91) is more suitable. Reviews confirm a texture that melts into the skin with a matte, non-oily finish.
My analysis
«Protini Polypeptide Cream is the best Drunk Elephant product in terms of formulation/tolerance - sensitive skin score 0, anti-aging 85, perfect score 5/5. Lactic acid 10 % at pH 4 sets it apart from non-exfoliating peptide creams. Dry skin score 55.3: for very dry skin, Lala Retro is more suitable.»
Verdict: TOP - Anti-ageing 85. Sensitive skin score 0. Score 5/5. Peptides + lactic acid 10% pH 4. All skin types (except very dry).
BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)
5/5 «Moisturizing without being heavy. Perfect for my skin. Nothing but happiness.»
5/5 «Every night, it's my moment of pleasure. Discreet fragrance, texture that melts into the skin with a matte, non-greasy finish.»
5/5 5.00/5 - 4 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~65 € / 50 ml | Range : Lala Retro
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 45.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 70.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.0 |
| Anti-aging | 32.3 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 16.1 |
| Stains | 1.7 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0)
Expert deciphering
Rich cream: ceramides + plant lipids (ferments, babassu butter) in a dense emollient formula. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Oily skin score: 45.5 - too rich for this profile. Sensitive skin score: 0 - perfectly suited.
Perfect BeautyDecoded score (5/5 out of 4 reviews). Feedback points to two distinct uses: luxury night cream for dry skin and buffer cream with retinol to limit irritation - a clinically relevant use. The price (€65 / 50 ml) is systematically mentioned as a limitation, with several users returning despite the cost.
Moderate anti-aging score (32.3) - this cream is a repairing emollient, not an anti-aging corrective. Its role is occlusion and barrier restoration. Use as a buffer cream with retinol (application before retinoid to create a protective buffer) is reported in a notice - intelligent use.
My analysis
«Lala Retro is the Drunk Elephant rich cream reference - dry skin score 91, sensitive skin score 0, rating 5/5. Its use as a buffer cream with retinol (mentioned in the reviews) is clinically relevant and a smart way to justify the price. Oily skin score 45.5: to be excluded from this profile.»
Verdict: - Reference rich cream (dry skin 91, sensitivity 0, 5/5). Retinol buffer cream documented in reviews. Too rich for oily skin (45.5).
BeautyDecoded user reviews (4 reviews in total)
5/5 «Soft, creamy and thick like a balm. Perfect as a night cream.»
5/5 «Saved my skin when I went back on retinol 1 %. So moisturizing. Too bad it's so expensive.»
5/5 «My winter cream for years. Incomparable texture and comfort. Too expensive but I come back to it every winter.»
4/5 «Good product but still expensive for the expected benefits.»
5/5 5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~55 € / 50 ml | Range : Bora
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 49.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 63.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.0 |
| Anti-aging | 83.3 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 58.6 |
| Stains | 55.3 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0)
Expert deciphering
Barrier repair formula: ceramides, omega 6 (linoleic acid), essential fatty acids + soothing active ingredients. Anti-aging score: 83.3 - surprising for a repair cream, signaling additional active ingredients. Redness score: 58.65 and spots: 55.25 - relevant for a post-treatment repair cream.
Sensitive skin score: 0 - perfectly adapted. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - suitable profile. Oily skin score: 49 - usable but less optimal. This product was not in the original Drunk Elephant source article - discovered via the BeautyDecoded CSV.
The only opinion (5/5) confirms efficacy on skin sensitized by retinol treatments - exactly the indication consistent with the redness score (58.65) and the Bora philosophy (post-treatment barrier repair).
My analysis
«Bora Barrier Repair Cream is the discovery of the Drunk Elephant catalog via BeautyDecoded - anti-aging score 83.3, redness 58.65, blemishes 55.25, sensitive skin 0. Not mentioned in the source article, it has a highly relevant post-treatment profile (retinol, acids). To be explored as an alternative to Lala Retro for sensitized combination skin.»
Verdict: - BeautyDecoded discovery: anti-aging 83.3, redness 58.65. Sensitivity score 0. Ideal after retinol treatment. Absent from source article.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5/5 «Soothes and moisturizes. Non-sticky feel. No reaction for my skin sensitized by retinol treatments.»
5/5 5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~75 € / 30 ml | Range : Protini
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -2.3 |
| Anti-aging | 86.7 |
| Imperfections | 76.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 76.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Warning: Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.25)
Expert deciphering
Peptide serum + enzymatic exfoliation (resurfacing). Anti-aging score: 86.7 and imperfections: 76.5 - among the highest in the Drunk Elephant catalog. Universal profile: scores 84-91/100 for all skin types. This serum is not in the original source article - discovered via CSV BeautyDecoded.
Sensitive skin score: -2.25 - slight caution, consistent with the resurfacing component (enzymatic exfoliation). Spots score: 76.5 - relevant. The only review (5/5) suggests use in combination with Protini cream - synergy products from the same range.
This serum complements the Protini cream (peptides + lactic acid) with an enzymatic resurfacing action - a multi-mechanism approach within the same range. The anti-aging profile 86.7 + imperfections 76.5 + blemishes 76.5 is the best in the Drunk Elephant catalog for these three criteria combined.
My analysis
«Protini Resurfacing Serum is the most interesting discovery in the Drunk Elephant catalog via BeautyDecoded - triple anti-aging score (86.7), blemishes (76.5) and spots (76.5), universal profile. Not mentioned in source article. To be considered as a top serum in a Drunk Elephant routine.»
Verdict: - Triple action anti-aging 86.7 / blemishes 76.5 / spots 76.5. Universal profile. BeautyDecoded discovery missing from source article.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5/5 «Great combo with Protini cream. Very good.»
3/5 3.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~62 € / 15 ml | Range : C-Tango
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 59.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 80.5 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.9 |
| Anti-aging | 81.6 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 49.3 |
| Stains | 76.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.95)
Expert deciphering
5 forms of vitamin C (pure ascorbic acid + 4 stable derivatives of different molecular weights) + peptide complex + ceramides. Anti-aging score: 81.6 and dark spots: 76.5 - high for an eye contour product. Redness score: 49.3 - relevant for reddish under-eye circles. Sensitive skin score: +0.95 - very well suited.
Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Oily skin score: 59.5 - usable. The multi-form vitamin C approach is smart for the fine periorbital area: pure AA acts quickly but can irritate; stable derivatives penetrate more slowly without irritation. Multi-speed action.
BeautyDecoded score: 3/5 from 1 review - insufficient basis. The review points to a lack of effect and too high a price (>70 €) - questionable value-for-money signal. The BeautyDecoded formulative score is significantly more positive than the user rating, suggesting expectations not calibrated to the actual eye contour clinic.
My analysis
«C-Tango is formally solid (anti-aging 81.6, blemishes 76.5, sensitive skin +0.95) but its value for money is questionable at €62 / 15 ml. The only BeautyDecoded review confirms the disappointment over visible efficacy - topical active ingredients have their limits on constitutional or anatomical dark circles. For this budget, the BeautyDecoded score justifies a trial on pigmented dark circles or periorbital fine lines.»
Verdict: Warning: - Solidly formulated (anti-aging 81.6, sensitive skin +0.95). 1 review: effectiveness questioned. High price for 15 ml.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
3/5 «No effect on me at middle age. Just moisturizing, not suitable for oedematous bags. Expensive experience for over €70. Fun colorful packaging but that's about it.»
3/5 3.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~62 € / 15 ml | Range : A-Shaba
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 55.3 |
| Oily skin | 45.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 69.3 |
| Normal to oily skin | 70.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -1.6 |
| Anti-aging | 86.7 |
| Imperfections | 76.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 81.6 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -1.55)
Expert deciphering
Eye contour serum with anti-aging score: 86.7 and blemish score: 81.6 - among the highest in the catalog for an eye product. Imperfections score: 76.5 - relevant for pigmented dark circles. Formally excellent, these scores contrast sharply with the single user rating.
Sensitive skin score: -1.55 - slight caution. Dry skin score: 55.3 and oily skin score: 45.5 - moderate scores, suggesting an active product to be used on the periorbital area only (very small quantities). BeautyDecoded score 3/5 out of 1 review - insufficient basis. The only return is a product return for rancid odor.
The rancid odor reported is a worrying formulatic signal - it may indicate oxidation of the vegetable oils present in the formula. This problem is not universal (only 1 report), but justifies checking the expiry date and storage conditions at the time of purchase.
My analysis
«A-Shaba Complex Eye Serum has the highest formula scores in the Drunk Elephant catalog for an eye care product (anti-aging 86.7, blemishes 81.6, imperfections 76.5). But BeautyDecoded's only review mentions a rancid odor that led to a product return - a worrying quality signal for a premium product. Keep an eye on storage conditions and check the expiry date.»
Verdict: Warning: - Best eye formula scores in the catalog (anti-aging 86.7, dark spots 81.6). Rancid odor reported in the only review - product return. Monitor shelf life.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
3/5 «Rancid oil smell from first use. I returned the product for a refund.»
3/5 2.50/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~38 € / 15 ml | Range : B-Hydra
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | Score |
| Dry skin | 78.4 |
| Oily skin | 87.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 78.4 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 1.0 |
| Anti-aging | 27.2 |
| Imperfections | 21.3 |
| Redness | 34.0 |
| Stains | 28.1 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 1)
Expert deciphering
Moisturizing serum with pro-vitamins (B5) + AH + amino acids. Oily skin score: 87.5 and normal to oily skin score: 91 - optimal profile for oily skin seeking light hydration. Sensitive skin score: +1.0 - very well suited. Moderate anti-aging score (27.2): this serum is a moisturizer, not a corrective.
BeautyDecoded score: 2.50/5 based on 1 single review - insufficient basis for conclusion. The only feedback was that the product was pleasant but not suitable for this profile - no details on skin type or compatibility issues.
Dry skin score: 78.4 - good score for dehydrated dry skin looking for light hydration in a serum. This product is not mentioned in the original source article and has a sensitivity score of +1.0, making it the most tolerant option in the Drunk Elephant catalog.
My analysis
«B-Hydra is Drunk Elephant's most tolerant serum (sensitive skin +1.0). Its profile is that of a light moisturizer for oily to combination skin (oily skin score 87.5). The score of 2.50/5 (1 review) is insufficient to conclude on effectiveness. For skins looking for a Drunk Elephant light moisturizer: relevant option on the score, to be validated on the specific profile.»
Verdict: - Sensitivity score +1.0 (the most tolerant in the catalog). Light moisturizer for oily skin (87.5). 1 insufficient review. Price to be assessed.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
3/5 «Pleasant but not suitable for my skin.»
Morning: C-Firma Day Serum - SPF 50+ mineral (Drunk Elephant range or other brand)
Evening: TLC Framboos (2-3×/week) or Protini Resurfacing Serum - Protini Polypeptide Cream
Morning: C-Firma Day Sérum - SPF 50+ - The perfect serum for your skin.
Evening: Protini Resurfacing Serum - Lala Retro Whipped Cream
Morning: B-Hydra Sérum - Bora Barrier Repair Cream - SPF 50+ - Bora Barrier Repair Cream - SPF 50+ - Bora Barrier Repair Cream - SPF 50+ - Bora Barrier Repair Cream
Evening: Lala Retro Whipped Cream (retinol buffer) or Bora Barrier Repair Cream
Morning: C-Firma Day Sérum - Protini Polypeptide Cream - SPF 50+ - The best of both worlds
Evening: Protini Polypeptide Cream - (TLC Framboos 1×/week if tolerance established)
What are Suspicious 6 and are they really problematic?
4 of the 6 exclusions are scientifically justified: essential oils and fragrances (leading causes of cosmetic allergy), drying alcohol and SLS (alter the barrier). The exclusion of silicones is partially justified (heavy versus volatile silicones). The exclusion of all chemical filters is excessive - only oxybenzone and octinoxate are of legitimate concern, not the entire family of organic filters.
Can Framboos TLC and A-Passioni be combined on the same evening?
No - never. AHA+retinol combination on the same evening = severe irritation and risk of barrier breakdown. Alternate: TLC Framboos 2-3 evenings/week, A-Passioni the other evenings. Lala Retro or Bora Barrier can be applied before retinol as a protective buffer.
Drunk Elephant is owned by Shiseido - have the formulas changed?
Shiseido acquired Drunk Elephant in 2019. The formulas have not been modified to date - Suspicious 6 is still excluded and the flagship formulas maintain their composition. As with L'Oréal/CeraVe, a takeover by a major group does not preclude a downgrading of formulas.
Is Drunk Elephant suitable for sensitive skin?
Yes for the majority of products - the absence of fragrance, alcohol and EO is precisely what makes the range suitable. Exceptions: Framboos TLC (sensitivity score -7.25 - very gradual introduction), C-Firma (pH 3.3 - test), and A-Passioni if available (retinol - gradual introduction). Protini (sensitivity 0), Lala Retro (0), Bora (0) and B-Hydra (+1.0) are without reserve.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded uses artificial intelligence to help you choose the right cosmetics for your skin type. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. It is not a medical consultation, but rather a means of objectively selecting products according to a precise skin profile.
BeautyDecoded - The science of skin. Without marketing.
Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber.