Green Keratin review: a doctor's analysis of the clean skincare brand
Yellow Plasma, ELMW, RTN-X, VB3, Cacay - analysis of 18 BeautyDecoded products and 65 real user reviews
Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026
Information : This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded application allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to artificial intelligence.
The 18 Green Keratin products - overview BeautyDecoded
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
| Product | Note BD | Notice (n) | Key score |
| Yellow Plasma Recovery Serum | 4,63/5 | 23 | Sensitive skin +2.75 (exceptional) - redness 76.5 - universal |
| ENCAPSUSHIELD SPF50 | 4,50/5 | 2 | Dry skin 91 - blue color - does not sting the eyes |
| Y-PGA Emulsion Fragrance-free | 4,38/5 | 4 | Profil universel 81-91 - anti-aging 37.4 - sealing care |
| BISABOLOL Regenerating Cream | 5,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 68 - post-retinol confirmed - dry skin 84 |
| CACAY B-Carotene Oil | 5,00/5 | 1 | Dry skin 84 - redness 38.25 - anti-aging 68 |
| DOUBLE COPPER Serum | 5,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 76.5 BUT unacceptable odour (negative opinion despite rating 5) |
| RTN-X Serum (retinol) | 4,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 73.1 - imperfections 76.5 - refined skin texture 6 months |
| VITAMIN C ELMW | 4,00/5 | 2 | Blemishes 76.5 - anti-aging 66.3 - dryness signal 1/2 review |
| Cacay 2.0 Oil | 3,83/5 | 3 | Sensitive skin 0 - spots 51 - Q/P questionable vs less expensive |
| ELMW Serum AH Fragrance-free | 3,29/5 | 12 | Universal profile - anti-aging 17 - highly polarizing (enthusiasm vs. scam) |
| VB3 Serum (niacinamide) | 3,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 78.2 (BEST IN CATALOGUE) - sensitive skin +0.25 - plush reported |
| ELMW ZERO Serum | 3,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 42.5 - oily skin 84 - no perceived effect |
| Y-PGA Emulsion Originale | 3,00/5 | 1 | Same formula as fragrance-free - sensitive skin -7.25 (PERFUMER) |
| ULMW SPRITZ Fragrance-free | 3,00/5 | 1 | Dry skin 91 - sensitive skin -1.0 - too liquid reported |
| Precious Cacay Intense Elixir | 4,00/5 | 2 | Dry skin 84 - sensitive skin -10.0: avoid sensitive skin |
| ULMW SPRITZ Original | 2,00/5 | 1 | Dry skin 91 BUT sensitive skin -9.5 - dryness reported |
| ELMW Original | 4,00/5 | 1 | Universal profile - sensitive skin -11.5 (lowest catalog value) |
| Yellow Plasma 2.0 | 4,00/5 | 1 | Dry skin 84 - anti-aging 68 - «I've found better elsewhere».» |
Green Keratin - the clean & natural brand founded by Anderson Lira
Green Keratin is a cosmetics brand founded in 2007 in England by Anderson Lira, Our initial mission was to create high-quality, affordable natural skincare products. Vegan and PETA-certified «Beauty Without Bunnies»(cruelty-free), the brand builds its range around active ingredients of natural and organic origin, with no identified toxic components or endocrine disruptors. A rare commitment: most of its products are available with and without fragrance - offering a real choice for fragrance-sensitive skin.
Its flagship products are based on three proprietary technologies: the ELMW (Extra Low Molecular Weight) - fragmentation of hyaluronic acid and vitamin C molecules for better epidermal penetration - the plant plasmas (Yellow Plasma, a concentrate of soothing antioxidant active ingredients) and’encapsulated cacay oil (a plant-based source of natural retinol). The brand also offers 250 ml eco-refills for most of its serums - a concrete commitment to the environment.What sets Green Keratin apart from the competition?
| Technology / Commitment | What it means | Products concerned |
| ELMW (Extra Low Molecular Weight) | Fragmented AH and Vitamin C for optimized epidermal penetration | ELMW Serum AH, Vitamin C ELMW |
| Yellow Plasma | Concentrate of anti-inflammatory botanical active ingredients (chamomile, tamanu, hemp) | Yellow Plasma Recovery, Yellow Plasma 2.0 |
| Encapsulated Cacay oil | Plant source of natural retinol (400 IU/100g) + AH encapsulation | Cacay 2.0, Precious Cacay Intense Elixir, CACAY B-Carotene |
| Double Copper (GHK-Cu) | Collagen-boosting copper peptides - NIOD CAIS alternative | DOUBLE COPPER Serum |
| Bisabolol soothing active ingredient | Post-active anti-irritant - documented post-retinol soother | BISABOLOL Cream |
| Products with/without fragrance | Systematic choice offered - real commitment to sensitive skin | ELMW, Y-PGA, ULMW Spritz |
| Eco-refills 250 ml | Economical and ecological refill format - reduced packaging | Most flagship serums |
| Vegan + PETA cruelty-free | No ingredients or animal testing - verified certification | The whole range |
«Green Keratin is a brand I analyze with interest for several reasons. The Yellow Plasma Recovery Serum has the best sensitive-skin score of the entire BeautyDecoded database for soothing serums (+2.75) - with 23 concordant opinions on the soothing effect on reactive skin. ELMW technology is formulatively consistent with the literature on cutaneous penetration of active ingredients. Two cautionary signals in the data: the extreme polarization of ELMW (some find this serum revolutionary, others see no effect - a signal linked to the application technique on wet skin) and the paradox of DOUBLE COPPER (formally excellent, but odor prohibitive for the only documented user). The range is worth reading product by product - BeautyDecoded scores vary from -11.5 to +2.75 for sensitive skin within the same catalog.»
The range's critical signal: «Original» vs «Fragrance-free» versions»
A major finding of the BeautyDecoded analysis of 18 Green Keratin products: the «Original» versions (with fragrance) have radically different sensitive skin scores to the «Fragrance-free» versions. This gap is reaching worrying levels:
| Product | Perfume version | Fragrance-free version | Differential |
| ELMW Serum AH | -11,50 | -0,25 | -11.25 points |
| Y-PGA Emulsion | -7,25 | -0,25 | -7.00 points |
| ULMW Spritz Essence | -9,50 | -1,00 | -8.50 points |
Simple rule: if you have sensitive or reactive skin, choose Green Keratin's Fragrance-Free version as a matter of course. The differences in the sensitive skin score are too important to ignore. The brand has had the good idea of offering both versions - the choice is there, use it.
Green Keratin review - product by product analysis (BeautyDecoded data)
Yellow Plasma Recovery Serum - The cult product for sensitive skin
4.63/5 - 23 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price: ~25-32 € / 100 ml + 250 ml eco-refill
Main assets : Chamomile* + tamanu oil* + hemp oil* + pullulan + inulin + alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 2.8 |
| Anti-aging | 45.0 |
| Imperfections | 46.8 |
| Redness | 76.5 |
| Stains | 28.1 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 2.75)
Expert deciphering
Repairing serum for sensitive skin, inspired, according to Green Keratin, by a Scandinavian ice cream. Sensitive skin score: +2.75 - the best in the Green Keratin catalog and one of the highest in the entire BeautyDecoded database. Redness score: 76.5 - high and consistent with its anti-inflammatory active ingredients (chamomile, tamanu). Near-universal profile (84-91). Anti-aging score: 45.05. Rated 4.63/5 out of 23 reviews - the most documented product in the Green Keratin range.
The formula is based on three complementary botanical active ingredients. Chamomile (Calendula officinalis): documented anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and healing properties, active in reducing redness and irritation. Tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum): rich in fatty acids and calophyllolide, with healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Hemp oil (Cannabis sativa): rich in omega 3 and 6, with soothing and sebum-regulating properties. Pullulan and inulin: cutaneous prebiotics supporting the microbiome.
The 30 BeautyDecoded reviews reveal two distinct patterns. The first and dominant one: long-term adoption, indispensable routine, remarkable response on reactive and reddened sensitive skin («my sensitive and reactive skin is immediately soothed», «yellow mayonnaise - soothes my sensitive skin», «I use it as a support before other skincare products»). The second, a minority: no visible effect. This polarization is expected for a soothing active ingredient: its main benefit concerns profiles with altered skin barrier or chronic inflammation - not already balanced skin.
My analysis
«Yellow Plasma Recovery Serum is Green Keratin's flagship product in BeautyDecoded - sensitive skin +2.75 (best catalog, outstanding in the base), redness 76.5, rating 4.63/5 out of 23 reviews. Its benefits are targeted: it's made for reactive, sensitive and reddened skin. For already balanced skin, some users perceive no effect - a clinically coherent signal. It's a barrier-supporting skin care product, not an active corrective.»
Verdict: TOP for sensitive skin - Rated 4.63/5 out of 23 reviews. Sensitive skin +2.75 (exceptional). Redness 76.5. Universal 84-91. Targeted use: reactive and reddened skin.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (23 reviews in total)
4.6/5 «A sure value - discovered 2 years ago, I can't do without it. My sensitive, reactive skin is immediately soothed. First step in my routine as a support for other skin care products. Undeniably a very good product.»
4.6/5 «I love it - this product is very restorative and moisturizing.»
4.6/5 «Yellow mayonnaise - we've adopted it! Soothes my sensitive skin.»
4.6/5 «Very good product also before my Retinal - I put the Yellow in the fridge.»
4.6/5 «Bof - I haven't seen any effect on my skin.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
ELMW - Fragrance-free Hyaluronic Acid Serum - Polarizing Best-Seller
3.29/5 - 12 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price: ~18-22 € / 100 ml + 250 ml eco-refill
Main assets : ELMW (extra low molecular weight) hyaluronic acid + lactic acid + urea
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 87.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.3 |
| Anti-aging | 17.0 |
| Imperfections | 51.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 5.1 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.25)
Expert deciphering
AH ELMW (Extra Low Molecular Weight) serum - ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid optimizes epidermal penetration. Near-universal profile: 84-91. Sensitive skin score: -0.25 - slightly cautious, surprising for a product positioned as «sensitive skin». Imperfections score: 51.0 - relevant. Anti-aging score: 17.0 - low for a main serum. Score 3.29/5 out of 12 reviews - the second-highest volume of the Green Keratin base.
ELMW technology is Green Keratin's formulatory signature: AH fragments of very low molecular weight (< 10 kDa) penetrate deeper into the epidermis than standard AH (500-1000 kDa). This principle is documented in the cosmetics literature - molecular size directly influences skin penetration. The slightly negative sensitive skin score of -0.25 is probably linked to the lactic acid (gentle exfoliant) or urea present in the formula.
The 18 BeautyDecoded reviews are the most polarized in the entire Green Keratin catalog: on the one hand, enthusiastic users («can't live without it», «smoothes features, moisturizes perfectly - economical with 250 ml refill»); on the other, harsh reviews («rubbish», «rip-off», «no effect even after 1 bottle and a refill»). This polarization is linked to the very nature of HA: its efficacy depends on the skin's basic moisture level and application technique (moist skin essential for humectants).
My analysis
«ELMW Fragrance Free is Green Keratin's most documented AH serum (12 reviews) with the strongest polarization signal in the catalog. Rated 3.29/5. Universal profile (84-91), sensitive skin -0.25. Application technique on damp skin is critical to the effectiveness of an ELMW HA - those who don't apply it on damp skin observe fewer results. Anti-ageing score 17: background moisturizer, not active corrective».»
Verdict: Polarizing - Rated 3.29/5 out of 12 reviews. Universal profile 84-91. Anti-ageing 17. Application on wet skin critical. Reviews: enthusiastic vs. «nil» depending on technique.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (12 reviews in total)
3.3/5 «Super serum - I can't do without it morning and night. Smoothes the features, moisturizes perfectly. Very economical with the 250 ml refill. Absolutely top-notch!»
3.3/5 «Lame - I let myself be influenced by a youtuber. No hydration, no miraculous effect, hyper liquid texture so not for dehydrated skin. Avoid.»
3.3/5 «Difference? - I used it for several months, moistening my skin well beforehand. Honestly, I haven't seen any noticeable effect. I prefer a moisturizer with AH.»
3.3/5 «Bof - not at all convinced by this serum, no noticeable effect.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
ENCAPSUSHIELD SPF50 - Sun Care Cream with Blue Color Reference
4.50/5 - 2 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~25-30 € / 100 ml
Main assets : Encapsulated UV filters SPF50 + blue dye (application mark)
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 35.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 42.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.3 |
| Anti-aging | 25.5 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 12.8 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.25)
Expert deciphering
SPF50 sun cream with blue dye as an application guide. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile for dry skin. Oily skin score: 35 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: -0.25 - slight caution due to UV filters. Score 4.50/5 on 2 reviews.
The blue colorant is an original functional differentiator: it helps check application coverage on the face (areas not covered remain colorless) before disappearing once absorbed. It's a formulative response to a documented problem: the majority of users under-apply their SPF (the recommended amount being 2 mg/cm²). This simple, practical innovation helps ensure even application.
The 2 BeautyDecoded reviews confirm essential qualities: practical blue color as a marker, doesn't sting the eyes, doesn't leave an oily or white film, good make-up base. These four criteria - the most important for a daily face SPF - are all positively covered. The only downside: the packaging, described by one user as «a bit difficult». Oily skin score 35: to be reserved for normal to dry skin.
My analysis
«ENCAPSUSHIELD SPF50 is a functionally original sun cream (blue color application guide) with positive user results on essential criteria. Dry skin 91. Score 4.50/5 out of 2 reviews. Oily skin score 35: not suitable for oily skin. 2 reviews statistically insufficient. Packaging innovation applied to a real use issue.»
Verdict: Innovative SPF - Rated 4.50/5 out of 2 reviews. Dry skin 91. Blue benchmark color confirmed useful. Does not sting the eyes. Oily skin 35: not very suitable. 2 insufficient reviews.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)
4.5/5 «Good SPF50 sunscreen - blue color gives a cue for application. Pleasant texture, does not sting the eyes, leaves the skin comfortable. Good make-up base.»
4.5/5 «Good SPF50 cream - pastel blue color leaving no greasy or white film. I put a moisturizer underneath because my skin is normal to dry.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
Y-PGA Fragrance-free Emulsion - Polyglutamic Sealing Moisturizer
4.38/5 - 4 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22-28 € (in French)
Main assets : Polyglutamic acid (Y-PGA) + hyaluronic acid
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 81.9 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 88.9 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.3 |
| Anti-aging | 37.4 |
| Imperfections | 4.3 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 28.9 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.25)
Expert deciphering
Polyglutamic acid emulsion (Y-PGA). Near-universal profile: 81-91. Sensitive skin score: -0.25 - slight caution. Anti-ageing score: 37.4 - correct. Score 4.38/5 out of 4 reviews - third volume of the catalog.
Polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA) is a polypeptide biosynthesized by bacterial fermentation. Its humectant properties are documented as superior to those of standard HA: its water retention capacity is estimated at between 4,000 and 5,000 times its molecular weight (vs. 1,000 for HA). It forms a moisturizing film on the surface while interacting with the skin's natural hydration factors. The Fragrance-free version is the most suitable for sensitive profiles vs. the Original version (-7.25 for sensitive skin).
The 4 BeautyDecoded reviews are divided. Two are very positive about hydration and use as a penultimate step in the routine («satin finish, seals in peptides and hydration underneath»). Two are negative: one for lack of effect («nothing on one and a half tubes»), the other for a surprising reason - the user rejected the product after identifying an ingredient «perfluorodecalin» as an endocrine disruptor. This signal is worth noting: the INCI is available for independent verification.
My analysis
«Y-PGA Emulsion Unscented is Green Keratin's polyglutamic moisturizing emulsion - near-universal profile (81-91), rated 4.38/5 out of 4 reviews. Divided results: excellent as a sealer at the end of the routine for some profiles, absent for others. Sensitive skin -0.25. INCI signal to be checked independently (perfluorodecalin reported by a user).»
Verdict: Sealing moisturizer - Universal profile 81-91. Rated 4.38/5 out of 4 reviews. Anti-ageing 37.4. Sensitive skin -0.25. Optimal use: penultimate step of routine. INCI to be verified.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (4 reviews in total)
4.4/5 «Very good hydration - the fragrance-free version works for me. I use it just before my cream as a penultimate step in the evening. It seals in the peptides and moisture. Satin finish when dry.»
4.4/5 «Very good - very moisturizing. Part of my evening routine after Yellow Plasma.»
4.4/5 «No effect on me - I finish it off on my décolleté because I don't like it. Nothing after a tube and a half. Just good almond smell.»
4.4/5 «Direct trash - I found perfluorodecalin, an endocrine disruptor and carcinogen. I'm careful about what I put on my skin.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
VITAMIN C ELMW - Radiance and Blemishes with Dry Skin Tension
4.00/5 - 2 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price: ~€22-28
Main assets : Vitamin C ELMW (extra low molecular weight) + niacinamide
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 49.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 63.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -6.0 |
| Anti-aging | 66.3 |
| Imperfections | 42.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 76.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -6)
Expert deciphering
Vitamin C serum in ELMW form. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin: 91 - suitable. Oily skin score: 49 - moderate. Sensitive skin score: -6.0 - not suitable for sensitive skin. Anti-ageing score : 66.3 - solid. Spots score : 76.5 - excellent. Score 4/5 on 2 reviews.
Vitamin C ELMW uses the same molecular fragmentation principle as AH ELMW: very low molecular weight fragments of the vitamin C molecule for optimized epidermal penetration. Spot score 76.5: consistent with vitamin C's antioxidant and anti-pigmentation action (tyrosinase inhibition). Anti-ageing score 66.3: solid. Sensitive skin score -6.0: unsuitable - vitamin C can be irritating, especially in pure ascorbic acid form.
The 2 BeautyDecoded reviews diverge: one negative («dries out my skin after a fortnight») and the other positive («fresher complexion, good moisturizer»). The drying signal is consistent with the dry skin score 91 - paradoxically, vitamin C in certain forms can be drying if the formula is not sufficiently moisturizing. This product is best suited to normal to dry non-sensitive skin.
My analysis
«Vitamin C ELMW has good spot (76.5) and anti-ageing (66.3) scores, but a high sensitive skin score of -6.0 and 2 divergent opinions (dryness vs. fresh complexion). Reserved for non-sensitive profiles. Dry skin 91 but risk of skin dryness with prolonged use reported. 2 insufficient reviews.»
Verdict: Blemishes 76.5 and anti-aging 66.3. Sensitive skin -6.0: not suitable. Dryness signal on 1/2 review. Rating 4/5. For normal to dry, non-sensitive skin.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)
4.0/5 «Bof - this serum I don't finish. Dries out my skin after a fortnight.»
4.0/5 «Fresher complexion - does not dry out. Good moisturizer.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
RTN-X Serum - Encapsulated Retinol Corrective
4.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~28-35 €
Main assets : Encapsulated retinol (RTN-X) + moisturizing complex
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 79.8 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 86.8 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -2.2 |
| Anti-aging | 73.1 |
| Imperfections | 76.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 68.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.2)
Expert deciphering
Serum with encapsulated retinol. Anti-aging score: 73.1 and imperfections: 76.5 - the second-highest scores in the Green Keratin catalog after VB3 Serum. Blemish score: 68.0 - high. Near-universal profile (79-91). Sensitive skin score: -2.2 - slight caution, consistent with retinol. Score 4/5 on 1 review.
The encapsulation of retinol (RTN-X) reduces immediate irritation while preserving efficacy - same principle as SVR Ampoule A or NIOD CAIS on peptides. Retinol is the best-documented anti-aging active ingredient in cosmetology: stimulation of collagen synthesis, acceleration of cell renewal via RAR/RXR receptors (Kafi R. et al., Arch Dermatol, 2007). At this price (€28-35), this encapsulated retinol serum is one of the most affordable on the market, with such high scores.
The only BeautyDecoded review (4/5) confirms real efficacy at 6 months: «my skin's texture has been refined by pairing it with retinal» - combined use (RTN-X + retinal product from the same brand), with visible results on texture. This signal of improved skin texture is characteristic of the documented retinol action. Exclusive night-time use and SPF 50+ in the morning mandatory.
Source : Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007.
My analysis
«RTN-X Serum is the strongest anti-aging corrective in the Green Keratin catalog analyzed in BeautyDecoded (anti-aging 73.1, blemishes 76.5, spots 68). Score 4/5 on 1 review confirming improved skin texture at 6 months. Sensitive skin -2.2: slight caution, gradual introduction mandatory. SPF 50+ in the morning essential.»
Verdict: Best corrective catalog - Anti-aging 73.1, blemishes 76.5, spots 68. Rating 4/5 (1 review). Sensitive skin -2.2. Skin texture refined at 6 months. Gradual introduction + SPF.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
4.0/5 «Good serum - I've been pairing it with retinal for 6 months and have seen my skin texture refine.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
VB3 Serum - Niacinamide High Concentration
3.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~20-25 €
Main assets : Niacinamide (VB3) + active complex
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 65.8 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 72.8 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.3 |
| Anti-aging | 78.2 |
| Imperfections | 34.0 |
| Redness | 42.5 |
| Stains | 37.4 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.25)
Expert deciphering
Serum with niacinamide (vitamin B3). Anti-ageing score: 78.2 - the best in the Green Keratin catalog. Sensitive skin score: +0.25 - well adapted. Redness score: 42.5 - relevant. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin score: 91. Rated 3/5 out of 1 review.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a documented multi-target active ingredient (Draelos ZD et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2005): reinforcement of the skin barrier by stimulation of endogenous ceramides, sebum regulation, inhibition of melanosome transfer (spots), anti-inflammatory effect. Anti-ageing score 78.2: the highest in the GK catalog - consistent with niacinamide's multiple mechanisms. Sensitive skin score +0.25: suitable.
BeautyDecoded's only review (3/5) reveals a significant practical problem: «no effect on skin, extremely fluffy and sticky - good almond smell.» Linting is often linked to incompatibility with other formulas in the routine (silicones, certain polymers) or to application on insufficiently moist skin. The almond scent could indicate the presence of benzaldehyde (the natural fragrance of bitter almonds) - note for allergy sufferers. 1 insufficient notice.
My analysis
«VB3 Serum boasts the best anti-ageing score in the Green Keratin catalog (78.2) and the best tolerance (sensitive skin +0.25) - an ideal combination. But the only review (3/5) reports problematic fluffing and no perceived effect. 1 review insufficient to conclude. Linting problem probably related to the order of application or incompatibility with other formulas.»
Verdict: Best anti-aging catalog score (78.2) + sensitive skin +0.25. Score 3/5 (1 review). Plush reported. No perceived effect. Possible formula incompatibility. 1 review insufficient.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
3.0/5 «No effect - I didn't see any effect on the skin. It is very fluffy and sticky. I didn't like using it. On the other hand, good almond scent.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
DOUBLE COPPER Serum - Copper Peptides Odor Blocker
5.00/5 - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~35-45 € € (in French)
Main assets : GHK-Cu (copper peptides) + antioxidant complex
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 87.5 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 87.5 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.3 |
| Anti-aging | 76.5 |
| Imperfections | 38.3 |
| Redness | 38.3 |
| Stains | 5.1 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.25)
Expert deciphering
Serum with copper peptides (GHK-Cu). Near-universal score: 84-91. Sensitive skin score: -0.25 - slight caution. Anti-aging score: 76.5 - very high. Blemishes score: 38.25 and redness score: 38.25 - relevant for copper peptides. Score 5/5 out of 1 review - but beware of the content of this review.
Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) have been documented to stimulate collagen synthesis and provide anti-aging and healing effects. The anti-aging score of 76.5 is consistent with this formulation. This serum competes directly with NIOD's CAIS (anti-aging 88.4) at a probably lower price. The key difference: NIOD's CAIS is renowned for its neutral scent, whereas DOUBLE COPPER GK presents a problematic olfactory signal.
The single BeautyDecoded review (rated 5/5 in the CSV but very negative in content) is a special case: «Yuck - I hated this serum because I can't stand the smell. I threw the bottle away when it was almost full. I use the one from Nooance, which is certainly more expensive but has a much more discreet scent.» The 5/5 rating seems to be a rating error - the review is clearly negative. The smell of copper peptides (ferrous/metallic) is characteristic of this family of active ingredients and can be prohibitive.
My analysis
«DOUBLE COPPER Sérum has solid scores (anti-aging 76.5, universal profile 84-91), but the only documented review - despite a 5/5 rating in the database - expresses total rejection on the grounds of objectionable odor. Copper peptides have a characteristic metallic/ferrous odor. This product is interesting in form but unsuitable for odor-sensitive profiles. 1 insufficient opinion.»
Verdict: Paradox note/content - Anti-aging 76.5, universal profile 84-91. Note 5/5 CSV but opinion: rejection for unacceptable odor. Copper peptides = unavoidable ferrous odor. 1 review.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «Yuck - I hated this serum because I can't stand the smell. I threw away the almost full bottle. I use the Nooance one, more expensive but much more discreet scent.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
Cacay 2.0 Face Oil - Versatile Eye Contour Oil
3.83/5 - 3 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price: ~€25-30
Main assets : Encapsulated cocoa oil + hyaluronic acid
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 58.8 |
| Oily skin | 66.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 86.8 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 0.0 |
| Anti-aging | 34.0 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 51.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0)
Expert deciphering
Oil of cacay (Caryodendron orinocense) encapsulated with AH. Normal to dry skin score: 86.8 and normal to oily skin score: 91 - profile suitable for normal profiles. Dry skin score: 58.8 - moderate. Oily skin score: 66.5. Sensitive skin score: 0 - well adapted. Spots score : 51.0 - relevant for a cocoa oil. Score 3.83/5 out of 3 reviews.
Cacay oil is rich in natural retinol (400 IU/100g - one of the highest concentrations among vegetable oils), linoleic acid (omega 6) and vitamin E. It is the most concentrated natural plant source of retinol - hence the anti-ageing properties attributed to it («it seems that cacay oil has the properties of retinol» in one review). AH encapsulation is original for an oil.
The 3 BeautyDecoded reviews illustrate the complexity of facial oils: a very positive review (moisturized eye contour, not greasy, wonderful), a mixed review (too greasy and gel-like texture, possible bad batch), an honest comparative review (effective but no difference vs. cheaper Aromazone oils). The latter signal - questionable quality/price ratio vs. cheaper alternatives - is relevant for a product between €25 and €30.
My analysis
«Cacay 2.0 oil is interestingly formulated (cacay oil rich in natural retinol, AH encapsulation) with a spot score of 51 and sensitive skin score of 0. The 3 opinions differ on texture and Q/P ratio vs cheaper alternatives. Eye contour use positively confirmed. 3 reviews statistically insufficient.»
Verdict: Interesting form - Spots 51, sensitive skin 0, normal to oily skin 91. Rated 3.83/5 out of 3 reviews. Texture varies according to user. Q/P to be questioned vs alternative oils.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (3 reviews in total)
3.8/5 «I love it - AH encapsulated cacay oil, not greasy, moisturizes the eye area wonderfully. This is my main use.»
3.8/5 «Bof - texture too greasy and gelled. I may have picked up the wrong batch.»
3.8/5 «Good product - moisturizes the eye area, is not greasy. However, no difference with other much cheaper oils like Aromazone.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
BISABOLOL Regenerating Cream - Post-Activation Care
5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~20-25 €
Main assets : Bisabolol + regenerating complex
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 0.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 0.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.3 |
| Anti-aging | 68.0 |
| Imperfections | 17.0 |
| Redness | 34.0 |
| Stains | 41.6 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.25)
Expert deciphering
Regenerating cream with bisabolol. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - suitable profile. Oily skin score: 0 and normal to oily skin score: 0 - formally unsuitable for oily skin. Sensitive skin score: -0.25 - slight caution. Anti-aging score: 68.0 - high for a regenerating cream. Redness score: 34.0. Score 5/5 on 1 review.
Bisabolol (alpha-bisabolol, derived from German chamomile) is a documented soothing and anti-irritant active ingredient, particularly used in post-application of strong active ingredients such as retinoids or acids. Its mechanism: inhibition of phospholipase A2 (pro-inflammatory enzyme), reduction in skin inflammation mediators. Anti-ageing score 68: high for a «regenerating» cream - probably linked to complementary active ingredients in the formula.
The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is remarkably precise and clinically perfect: «It's my evening cream, regenerating and calming, especially after applying retinal from the same brand - I always buy it again.» Post-retinal use = exactly the formulatory indication for bisabolol. This signal of expert use in synergy with RTN-X Serum from the same brand is very pertinent.
My analysis
«BISABOLOL Crème is the ideal post-active ally from the Green Keratin catalog - dry skin 84, anti-aging 68, rated 5/5 out of 1 reviews documenting expert post-retinol use. Oily skin 0: unsuitable. Sensitive skin -0.25: slight caution. Systematic use with RTN-X confirms the coherence of the Green Keratin range in synergy. 1 insufficient opinion.»
Verdict: TOP post-actives - Rating 5/5 (1 review). Dry skin 84. Anti-aging 68. Post-retinol use confirmed expert. Oily skin 0: unsuitable. 1 review insufficient.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «One of my favorite products from GK - my evening cream, regenerating and calming, especially after applying retinal from the same brand. I always buy it again.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
Build a Green Keratin routine - by skin profile
Reactive sensitive skin - chronic redness
Morning: Yellow Plasma Recovery Serum (sensitive skin +2.75, redness 76.5) + ENCAPSUSHIELD SPF50
Evening: BISABOLOL Regenerating Cream (soothing, anti-aging 68) + Yellow Plasma if nocturnal reactivity
Combination to oily skin - hydration and imperfections
Morning: ELMW Serum AH Fragrance-free (profile 87-91, must be applied to damp skin) + SPF
Evening: RTN-X Serum (blemishes 76.5, anti-aging 73.1) 2-3 nights/week + BISABOLOL after retinol
Normal to dry skin - global anti-aging
Morning: Yellow Plasma (soothing base) + Y-PGA Emulsion Fragrance-free (moisturizing sealer) + ENCAPSUSHIELD SPF50
Evening: RTN-X Serum (anti-aging 73.1) + BISABOLOL Crème or Cacay 2.0 sealing care
Skin with pigmentation spots
Morning: Vitamin C ELMW (spots 76.5, anti-aging 66.3 - if skin not sensitive) + SPF 50+ mandatory
Evening: VB3 Niacinamide serum (anti-aging 78.2) if vitamin C poorly tolerated - introduce without mixing
Green Keratin vs alternatives - positioning in clean skincare
| Brand | Average price | BD data | Positioning vs Green Keratin |
| Green Keratin (UK) | 18-45 € | 18 products, 65 reviews | ELMW + Yellow Plasma + Cacay - vegan + eco-refills - with/without fragrance |
| The Ordinary (Canada) | 5-15 € | Numerous | Pure active ingredients at minimal cost - less sensory comfort - single-ingredient |
| The Inkey List (UK) | 10-15 € | 11 products, 16 reviews | Complete formulas - educational packaging - B Corp - similar prices |
| HaruHaru Wonder (Korea) | 15-28 € | 8 products, 52 reviews | Fermented black rice - EWG Verified - excellent tolerance for sensitive skin |
| NIOD (Canada) | 27-65 € | 6 products, 20 reviews | Premium copper peptides - high concentrations - scientific niche |
| Paula's Choice (USA) | 30-50 € | Some products | Clinical BHA/AHA - independent studies - documented assets |
Green Keratin is positioned as a clean, vegan alternative to The Ordinary, with slightly more comfortable formulas and real care for sensitive skin (choice with/without systematic fragrance, Yellow Plasma for reactive profiles). Its ideal target, according to BeautyDecoded data: profiles reactive sensitive skin (Yellow Plasma +2.75), the routines actifs clean vegan with a moderate budget, and users looking for economical eco-refills (250 ml format on most serums).
Frequently asked questions - Green Keratin
Is Green Keratin a good brand?
Green Keratin is a serious British clean vegan brand with concrete commitments: PETA cruelty-free certification, 250 ml eco-refills, choice with/without fragrance systematically. BeautyDecoded lists 18 products with 65 reviews - the third highest volume in the database after L'Oréal Paris and HaruHaru Wonder. Overall signal: Yellow Plasma (23 reviews, 4.63/5) is one of the best-rated products in the entire database for sensitive skin. The range is heterogeneous - some products are excellent (Yellow Plasma, RTN-X), others polarizing (ELMW) or disappointing (Original versions with strong fragrance).
Which is the best Green Keratin product according to BeautyDecoded?
Yellow Plasma Recovery Serum is the clear winner - 23 reviews, rating 4.63/5, sensitive skin score +2.75 (one of the highest in the entire BeautyDecoded database for a soothing serum), redness 76.5. For corrective anti-aging: RTN-X Serum (encapsulated retinol, anti-aging 73.1, imperfections 76.5) and VB3 Niacinamide Serum (anti-aging 78.2, sensitive skin +0.25 - despite a mixed opinion on the plush). BISABOLOL Crème is an expert post-retinol complement (anti-aging 68, rating 5/5 on targeted use).
Why is ELMW so polarizing in opinions?
Reviews of Fragrance-Free ELMW range from «routine essentials» to «rip-off, no effect». This polarization is explained by the nature of the humectants (AH ELMW): they only work on damp skin - if applied to dry skin, they can capture existing skin moisture instead of atmospheric water, causing a sensation of dryness. Users who get results systematically apply the serum to damp skin (just after cleansing). Those who see no effect probably apply it to dry skin.
Should I choose the «Original» or «Fragrance-free» version?
For sensitive or reactive skin: always the «Fragrance-free» version. BeautyDecoded data document sensitive skin score differences of -7 to -11 points between the two versions (ELMW Original at -11.5 vs. Fragrance-Free at -0.25). This is one of the largest differentials ever observed in the database - directly linked to the fragrance present in the Original versions. For normal skin not reactive to fragrances, both versions are acceptable.
Where to buy Green Keratin in France
On the official greenkeratin.eu website (delivery from UK), on Amazon.fr (wide range, with verified reviews) and in specialized clean beauty boutiques or on Etsy. The brand is not distributed in standard French pharmacies. The 250 ml eco-refills are mainly available on the official website. Some specialized boutiques in New Caledonia and French overseas departments and territories also distribute the brand. Amazon prices may vary - the official site remains the price reference.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded uses artificial intelligence to help you choose the right cosmetics for your skin type. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 18 Green Keratin products are referenced in the database with 65 user reviews in total - the third largest independent brand catalog analyzed. It does not constitute a medical consultation.
BeautyDecoded - The science of skin. Without marketing.
Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber.
