How to choose a vitamin C serum? A plastic surgeon's opinion

So which is better, pure vitamin C or its derivatives?

Products containing vitamin C are certainly not useless and I recommend them, especially if you already use a retinol serum. This avoids introducing too many irritating products into your skincare routine. I've noticed that combining pure vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening, with occasional exfoliation, can often lead to redness or irritation. Therefore, if you use retinol in the evening, it seems wiser to opt for a vitamin C derivative in the morning.

I also suggest avoiding the vitamin C pure if you have sensitive skin, as it is often formulated with a very low pH or contains alcohol.

Opting for a product based on vitamin C derivatives can be a good idea, but it's important to note that not all derivatives are created equal.

The Essential Benefits of Vitamin C

Vitamin C, an important ally for your skin, stands out for its exceptional antioxidant properties. Capable of neutralizing the free radicals responsible for premature aging, it preserves collagen and elastin, guaranteeing firmness and elasticity. It also increases the effectiveness of sun protection, reducing UV damage by up to 30%. Essential for collagen synthesis, it plays a crucial role in preventing collagen degradation and improving the appearance of skin spots, promising radiant, even-toned skin.

Vitamin C Pure vs Derivatives: Which to choose?

The Capricious Nature of Pure Vitamin C

Ascorbic acid, or pure vitamin Calthough scientifically proven to be effective, presents challenges in terms of stability. Sensitive to light, oxygen and humidity, it degrades easily, losing its effectiveness. What's more, its hydrophilic nature makes cutaneous absorption difficult, requiring a low pH that can irritate sensitive skin. Some products try to circumvent these obstacles by adding alcohol or silicones, but these solutions may not be suitable for all skin types.

The benefits of Vitamin C derivatives

To overcome these challenges, vitamin C derivatives have been developed. These modified molecules offer greater stability and easier skin penetration without the need for an acid pH, thus reducing the risk of irritation. These derivatives act as vitamin C precursors, in the hope that the skin will convert them into active ascorbic acid. However, despite these advantages, it's important to note that vitamin C derivatives have been less studied than pure vitamin C, leaving some questions unanswered as to their actual efficacy.

you opt for the proven power of the vitamin C Whether it's pure vitamin C or the reassuring stability of its derivatives, the important thing is to choose a product suited to your skin type and specific needs. With the right care, vitamin C can become the mainstay of your beauty routine, bringing you closer every day to the radiant, firm skin of your dreams.