In Cosmetics: Is Alcohol Really Your Skin's Enemy?
Among the ingredients that raise the most questions in cosmetics, the’alcohol occupies a prominent place. Accused of all kinds of evils—drying, irritating, toxic—it is often banned indiscriminately. However, the reality is much more nuanced. Not all alcohols are created equal, and some can even be beneficial for the skin. In this article, we separate fact from fiction about alcohol in skincare to help you better read labels and make informed choices.
What is alcohol in cosmetics?
The term «alcohol» refers to a large family of chemical compounds characterized by the presence of a group hydroxyl (-OH). In cosmetics, this category includes several substances that are very different in terms of their properties, their effects on the skin, and their usefulness in formulas.
The main distinctions are:
- Simple alcohols : like ethanol (or ethyl alcohol), often used for its antiseptic, astringent, or preservative properties.
- Fatty alcohols : such as the cetearyl alcohol or the stearyl alcohol, which are moisturizing, emollient, and thickening agents.
- Aromatic alcohols : like the benzyl alcohol, used as a preservative or solvent, but also known for its allergenic potential.
The functions of alcohol in cosmetics
Alcohol is present in many formulations for several technical and sensory reasons:
- Preservative : it inhibits bacterial and fungal proliferation.
- Solvent : it allows the active compounds of certain plants to be extracted, particularly essential oils.
- Texturizer : it promotes the penetration of active ingredients and offers a light texture and a dry finish.
- Refreshing effect : valued in tonics and treatments for oily skin.
Simple alcohols: a risk for certain skin types?
Visit volatile alcohols, such as denatured alcohol or high-concentration ethanol, are often singled out. They can:
- Dissolve the skin's protective hydrolipidic film,
- Causing a feeling of tightness,
- Promote skin dehydration,
- Aggravate certain conditions such as rosacea or eczema.
Caution : the effect depends heavily on the concentration in the product and individual sensitivity.
Beneficial alcohols: allies for your skin
Contrary to popular belief, some alcohols are not only safe but also beneficial:
- Fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, etc.): derived from vegetable oils, they are gentle, moisturizing, biodegradable, and well tolerated.
- Glycerine (a polyol): used for its exceptional moisturizing properties, even though it can dry out skin if used in excess.
- Benzyl alcohol : naturally present in certain essential oils, but should be monitored in people with allergies.
Reading labels: how to interpret the presence of alcohol?
On the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list, ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. Here are a few tips:
- If a simple alcohol is listed among the first ingredients, be careful if you have sensitive skin.
- The terms «alcohol-free» generally refer to ethanol, but not necessarily fatty alcohols.
- In organic cosmetics, alcohol is often plant-based and present in low concentrations.
The question of dosage: a crucial variable
Numerous studies show that up to 5 % of ethanol in a formula does not generally pose a problem. Beyond that, a drying effect may occur, especially without counterbalancing moisturizing agents (oils, butters, hyaluronic acid, etc.).
Some cleverly designed formulas incorporate ethanol for its benefits while neutralizing its negative effects with other active ingredients.
Who should avoid alcohol?
- Very dry or sensitive skin,
- Children and babies,
- Acne-prone skin if alcohol is used excessively (risk of rebound effect).
