The eye contour is one of the most sensitive and delicate areas of our face. Its extremely thin skin, the presence of the orbicularis muscle, and its exposure to external aggressions (pollution, UV rays, etc.) make it a priority area in any skincare routine. This article explains how to treat dark circles (especially blue circles), manage under-eye puffiness, and choose the right products to keep your eyes looking fresh and bright.

The eye contour area is extremely difficult to treat, whether by skin care techniques, injections or surgery. That's why it's so important to take care for this area of the face all year round. The beauty and youthfulness of our eyes depend to a great extent on the quality of our skin around the eyes.

Wrinkles around the eyes

The signs of aging appear relatively early around the eyes.

To fight wrinkles, retinol, vitamin C, peptides and especially argireline will be your friends to have an effect on fine lines. Moisturizing products will also have a smoothing effect, so you'll see rapid results. Gentle cleansing is also recommended to avoid drying out the eye contours and creating dehydration lines.

Bags under the eyes

The brown ring:

As you know, pigmented dark circles are very complicated to treat. What's more, we're dealing with the eye contour area, so we can't be too aggressive with our cosmetics. But to achieve results, we need to multiply the number of active ingredients.

Interesting active ingredients include vitamin C, gentle exfoliants, PHA, lactic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid and alpha arbutin. Of course, you shouldn't use them all at once.

The blue ring

However, there are also genetic hyperpigmentations, particularly in India and Asia, and one way of determining whether this hyperpigmentation is genetic or acquired is that the hyperpigmentation will also affect the upper eyelid. In this case, treatments are much less effective. As far as lifestyle habits are concerned, the most important thing is to wear sunglasses.

The blue ring:

For blue circles "which can have a pink or purple tint", the thinness of this skin means that the vessels and orbicularis muscle can be seen through.

Caffeine and vitamin :

An interesting active ingredient for limiting vessel dilation is caffeine, which can provide vasoconstriction to reduce the appearance of vessels and reduce oedema. Another interesting product is vitamin K, which helps reduce hemosiderin deposits.

Retinol:

Vitamin A and its derivatives are an interesting active ingredient for thickening the dermis and slightly reducing dark circles, induced by the presence of the subcutaneous orbicularis muscle.

It is truly the anti-aging active ingredient par excellence, acting deep down in the dermis by stimulating the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. It is therefore of interest in blue circles, by thickening the dermis, but also in the rest of the face. As part of our daily routine, good sleep management is essential for improving the appearance of blue circles.

Bags under the eyes:

If you have a problem with puffiness, or if the puffiness is due to edema, you can take action to reduce it through skin care and lifestyle habits.

The main problems specific to the eye contour area are :

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Why is the eye contour area so sensitive?

1. The thinnest skin on the body
   • The eyelids are made up of very thin skin, sometimes allowing blood vessels and the orbicularis muscle to show through, resulting in dark circles.
2. An area that quickly becomes dehydrated
   • With very few sebaceous glands, this area quickly becomes dehydrated. If you notice fine lines at the end of the day, this is a sign that your skin lacks moisture and that a suitable eye contour treatment is needed.
3. Increased sensitivity to UV rays
   • The rim of the eye socket is highly exposed to the sun, making the lower eyelid particularly prone to hyperpigmentation.
   • Sunscreen must be applied carefully: choose non-irritating formulas (without avobenzone or oxybenzone), and if your skin is reactive, opt for organic or mineral sunscreens.
4. The orbicularis muscle, a «skin» muscle»
   • Present under most of the eye contour (and lips), this muscle attaches directly to the skin. Its contractions contribute to the formation of dynamic wrinkles (crow's feet, lower eyelid wrinkles).
   • Botulinum toxin injections work well on crow's feet, but the results are more limited under the lower eyelid. Hence the importance of a suitable skincare routine.

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Understanding blue (pinkish or purplish) circles under the eyes

The bluish (or pinkish/purple) color of dark circles is often linked to thin skin, which allows blood vessels to show through. Several active ingredients can help reduce their appearance:

• Caffeine
  • It limits blood vessel dilation thanks to its vasoconstrictive effect, thereby helping to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness.
• Vitamin K
  • It acts on hemosiderin deposits (blood residues), limiting dark discoloration under the skin.
• Retinol (vitamin A and derivatives)
  • By thickening the dermis, it reduces the transparency that accentuates dark circles.
  • It is an essential anti-aging product: it boosts the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, also improving the overall appearance of the face.
  • Also remember to optimize your sleep hygiene: getting enough rest naturally reduces the appearance of dark circles.

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Managing under-eye bags

Several factors can cause bags under the eyes:

1. Edema
   • If your eyes are puffier in the morning, this is often a sign of edema. Cosmetic treatments, good hydration, and certain habits (limiting salt intake, drinking more water in the morning) can help reduce this problem.
   • Gentle massages or the use of a roller promote drainage, but don't forget to identify and treat the root cause (allergies, diet, etc.).
2. Lipoma
   • If the pockets are caused by a fatty hernia, the effect of cosmetics will be very limited. In this specific case, medical advice may be necessary.

Beware of allergies

• Allergies can aggravate puffiness and dark circles. Try to identify allergens (pollen, dust mites, cosmetics that don't agree with you) and consult a healthcare professional if necessary.

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Is a specific eye contour product necessary?

This is a recurring debate in cosmetics. Here are some key points:

• Benefits of dedicated packages
  • They are often non-comedogenic to prevent the formation of milia.
  • They contain textures and concentrations of active ingredients tailored to the sensitivity of the area.
• Assets to favor
  • Non-irritating ingredients : peptides, niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, vitamin E, ceramides, hyaluronic acid.
  • Potentially irritating ingredients : retinol, pure vitamin C. Tolerance varies from person to person; introduce them gradually and monitor for reactions.
• Gentle exfoliants
  • PHAs, lactic acid, mandelic acid, or low-dose retinol can be used, provided that the area is sufficiently moisturized and you start gently.
• For a less pronounced eye contour
  • No need to spend a fortune: simple, inexpensive products can suffice.

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Choosing and applying the right eye care products

Step 1: Cleaning

• Cleansing oils and balms
  • Opt for gentle yet effective formulas that can remove makeup and impurities without irritating the area.
• Mild cleaner
  • As a second step, in the evening, to complete makeup removal.
• Micellar water
  • Convenient when you're in a hurry, but be careful to use it in moderation, as it can dry out and irritate the eye area in the long term.

Step 2: Treatment

• Serum or cream
  • The serum (lighter) is applied before the cream.
  • Select products based on your needs: hydration, radiance, anti-wrinkle, etc.
  • In the morning: Eye contour serum + sunscreen (essential).
  • In the evening: Eye contour serum + moisturizing night cream or treatment (retinol, peptides, etc.).
• Specific masks
  • An eye mask can provide a temporary boost. Use occasionally for a «boost» effect.

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Lifestyle and habits to adopt

• Quality sleep
  • Getting enough restful sleep helps to naturally reduce dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.
• A balanced diet
  • Limit salt intake, eat foods rich in antioxidants (fruits, vegetables).
  • Drink enough water, especially in the morning, to limit water retention.
• Moderate sun exposure
  • Protect yourself with suitable sunscreen.
  • Also remember to protect your lips with an SPF balm.
• Avoid tobacco
  • It accelerates skin aging and dulls the complexion.
• Beware of allergens
  • Identify the causes of allergies to limit their impact on bags and dark circles under the eyes.