What is "MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE" and what does it do?

Role: HUMECTANT

Family: VITAMIN C Derivative

Comedogenic index: 0

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a stable derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid), used in cosmetics for its multiple benefits.

Pure vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, presents challenges in terms of stability and formulation. To remedy this, the cosmetics industry has developed various derivatives, including Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

The properties of this vitamin C derivative
Antioxidant and photoprotection: No published data attest to MAP's antioxidant or photoprotection capacities.
Collagen booster: in-vitro studies show that MAP can stimulate collagen synthesis in a similar way to AA. The latter has also been proven in-vivo.
Skin lightening: The good news is that MAP has been shown to lighten skin in-vivo.
Imperfections: MAP could play a special role in reducing imperfections.
Deep Hydration: It promotes deeper hydration of the skin than ascorbic acid.
Soothing properties: MAP may reduce skin imperfections thanks to its soothing action.

Absorption and Conversion
Conversion to pure vitamin C
For derivatives to be effective, they must not only be absorbed through the skin, but also converted to AA. In-vitro data show that MAP is capable of this conversion. However, the effectiveness of this conversion on living human skin remains uncertain.
Stability and efficacy: Unlike pure ascorbic acid, MAP is light- and air-stable, and effective without the need for a low pH.

Conclusion
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a promising alternative to pure vitamin C in cosmetics, particularly for deep moisturizing and improving skin radiance, while being generally well tolerated and stable.

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