sensitive skin

Niacinamide: The multi-functional vitamin

Niacinamide or Vitamin B3 is a ingredient very interesting in cosmetics, it is very useful as a complement to the two other flagship active ingredients, retinol and vitamin C.

The skin benefits of Niacinamide :

1) Anti-aging properties: Studies show that niacinamide can stimulate collagen production. This means improved skin structure and fewer wrinkles. For your information, anti-aging studies typically use a concentration of 4 to 5 % of niacinamide, used daily for 8 to 12 weeks. So, if you're looking for anti-aging benefits, try to choose a product that tells you the exact percentage of niacinamide it contains.

2) Anti-spot properties: Hyperpigmentation or brown spots are often stubborn, and it can be difficult to get rid of them with topical products alone. However, niacinamide is an excellent ingredient for fading them. Studies show that daily use of 2-5 % niacinamide for 8 weeks significantly lightens hyperpigmentation.

3) Skin barrier repair functions : The cutaneous barrier is the skin's outer layer, which plays an essential role in maintaining skin hydration and health. The substance between skin cells is mainly composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides. The quantity and structure of these compounds determine the health of the skin barrier. Studies have shown that 2 % niacinamide can increase the synthesis of free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides, resulting in a healthier, more resistant skin barrier, reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.

4) Anti-acne properties : Although niacinamide isn't considered one of the benchmark anti-acne ingredients, it's definitely worth a try if you have skin problems. It has sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties. A study using 4 % of niacinamide for 8 weeks to treat acne showed that 82 % of those treated saw some improvement. What's more, results were slightly better than with 1 % clindamycin gel, an antibiotic often used to treat acne.

Cosmetic product recommendations:

B-Bomb 10% Niacinamide

Discover the power of 10 % niacinamide with B-Bomb 10 % niacinamide serum from Geek And Gorgeous! This high-concentration, fragrance- and essential oil-free, vegan serum is designed to reduce blemishes and acne breakouts while significantly moisturizing and protecting the skin barrier. With its lightly gelled texture, it is easy and gentle to apply, and can be worn under moisturizer or make-up.

Ss unifying encyclopaedia Niacinamide

The unifying serum is a natural alternative for a healthier, more radiant complexion! Thanks to its powerful active ingredient, niacinamide, this serum helps eliminate imperfections while restoring the skin barrier. It promotes healing and reduces redness caused by imperfections such as acne scars. This unique formula is particularly useful for those suffering from acne breakouts, as it can help improve the overall appearance of the skin.

Niacinamide booster Paula's Choice

This serum contains 10% niacinamide, panthenol and acethylglucosamine. This serum is multi-functional, improving the appearance of pores, reinforcing the cutaneous barrier and improving skin texture. A serum that keeps its promises, but the bottle size is a little small at 20 ml.

Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% The Ordinary

The Ordinary has once again created an excellent serum containing 10% niacinamide and zinc. I recommend it for acne-prone skin, in addition to other treatments such as retinol and salicylic acid. An effective serum at a low price, but it may irritate sensitive skin. The Ordinary notice

Mineral 89 Probiotics Fractions

A good hyaluronic acid-based serum containing 4% niacinamide. A good choice for those who wish to incorporate this ingredient into their skincare routine without buying a specific cosmetic product. A well-formulated serum from French parapharmacy


The actions of Niacinamide:

Here are the best niacinamide serums

Niacinamide is an antioxidant

It reduces the inflammation created by free radicals and bacteria naturally present on your skin. As you know, inflammation is responsible for the appearance of imperfections, so niacinamide is very useful for acne-prone skin.

In 1995, a study published in the International Journal of Dermatology compared the use of niacinamide and clindamycin to treat acne.

The results showed a similar efficacy of niacinamide and clindamycin, which is interesting because clindamycin is a really effective treatment for acne, but like any antibiotic, there is a risk of skin bacteria developing resistance.

With niacinamide, this risk does not exist, as it is not an antibiotic. What's more, another study published in 2013 in the same journal showed that niacinamide was more effective than clindamycin in treating acne in patients with oily skin, but less effective than in patients with dry skin.

Anti-stain :

Another action of niacinamide is that it reduces the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to the skin's surface. It is therefore very useful for treating solar hyperpigmentation, post-acne, but also melasma.

An interesting study compared the efficacy of niacinamide to hydroquinone on melasma sufferers. Patients applied hydroquinone to one side of the face and niacinamide to the other; improvement was similar on both sides of the face, but with significantly less irritation on the niacinamide-treated side.

Ceramides :

One of niacinamide's actions is to increase the production of ceramides, thereby strengthening our skin barrier.

In fact, by stimulating the production of ceramides, the lipids that form the cement between epidermal cells, the skin is stronger, protected from dehydration and the penetration of irritating agents. It is thanks to this phenomenon that it has a moisturizing action on the skin, increasing epidermal water retention.

Our skin becomes more resistant and tolerant to other active ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol. This reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier makes niacinamide particularly interesting for people with ultra-dry skin prone to redness.

Niacinamide: an anti-ageing action

It also has an anti-aging action by increasing collagen production, and by reducing the damage created by UV rays on the skin. Studies show that it is particularly effective on mature skin.

On the other hand, an Australian study published in 2017 showed that taking oral vitamin B3 could reduce the occurrence of new skin cancer in patients who had already had one.

Niacinamide acts as a shield for the skin against the formation of substances that cause collagen destruction when the skin is exposed to UV rays.

Niacinamide's final action on the skin is to reduce sebum production, thereby improving the appearance of pores and reducing acne.

If we summarize all the benefits of niacinamide, it is anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, reduces hyperpigmentation, anti-ageing and strengthens our skin barrier. So we can understand why this active ingredient is so popular.

Are there any side effects?

Niacinamide is one of the safest active ingredients, and can even be used by pregnant or breast-feeding women. Most studies have been carried out with concentrations below 5%, so if you use a higher concentration, you may in rare cases experience tingling or redness, especially in people with sensitive skin.

If this happens to you, try a product with a lower concentration. However, I think that in the majority of cases, if you experience irritation after introducing niacinamide into your skincare routine, you should try a product with a lower concentration. facial careyou're having a reaction to an adjuvant, not to Niacinamide itself.

The last thing - and this is not a side effect, but a downside - is that Niacinamide takes time to act, much longer than vitamin A or C to see the first results. So if after 3 days you don't see any results, that's normal. You need at least 2 months to see the results.

Since most studies have been carried out with niacinamide concentrations below 5%, it is effective to use products containing low concentrations of niacinamide.

One of the advantages of niacinamide is that it can be combined with other active ingredients. Together with retinol, it helps reduce these side effects, and as we've seen, it's also very interesting to add it to an anti-acne protocol.

Niacinamide and vitamin C possible?

On the other hand, an old rumor, here from an article written 40 years ago, was that niacinamide and vitamin C couldn't be combined, but new studies show that it's perfectly possible.

Don't hesitate to use it in the eye area, as its action to reinforce the skin barrier means that the very fine skin around the eyes will tolerate retinoids much better.

Niacinamide: Effective on which skin types?

Niacinamide for oily skin?

Niacinamide is water-soluble, so it can be found in serums and lotions, which is very useful for people with oily skin, who can avoid oily or greasy cosmetics. Niacinamide is a great option if you have oily skin, as it helps reduce excessive sebum production, acts as an anti-inflammatory, soothes redness and rashes, and visibly reduces pore size for smoother skin overall.

Niacinamide for sensitive skin?

Niacinamide also has a neutral pH, making it suitable for sensitive skin. It is very stable, so can be found in a wide range of moisturizers.

Niacinamide for dry skin?

Dry skin can benefit from its incredibly restorative effect, as niacinamide helps stimulate the skin's natural ceramide (lipid) production, strengthening the skin barrier and reducing dry skin overall.

As you can see, nicacinamide is suitable for all skin types, from the driest to the most sensitive, including problem skin (eczema, rosacea, acne...), improving the skin's barrier function and limiting inflammatory crises.