Phenoxyethanol: Should it be banned?
Discover the mystery ingredient lurking in many beauty products: phenoxyethanol. While parabens are increasingly controversial, the phenoxyethanol is gaining in popularity as an alternative. But what do we really know about this little-known preservative? In this article, we'll untangle the truth from the false and reveal everything you need to know about phenoxyethanol. Fasten your seatbelt, because you're in for a surprise!
Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative used to inhibit the growth of micro-organisms that can alter the integrity of creams, foundations, sunscreens and other products. This ingredient is particularly effective as a preservative and is resistant to bacteria. It is produced by a process called ethoxylation, which involves reacting phenol and ethylene oxide at high temperatures and pressures.
The benefits of phenoxyethanol for the skin
Unlike other cosmetic ingredientsPhenoxyethanol has no direct effect on the skin. Instead, it is used to prevent bacterial contamination in skincare products.
- Bacteria prevention: It has antimicrobial properties and effectively prevents the growth of fungi, bacteria and yeasts in product formulas.
- Extended shelf-life: Preservatives contribute to the safety of products and enable them to be kept for longer.
- Stability: Phenoxyethanol promotes product stability by preventing reactions with other ingredients, air or light.
- Versatile use: It is effective in protecting against pathogens in a wide variety of products.
The PHENOXYETHANOL controversy explained!
The French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM) has been monitoring and investigating phenoxyethanol for several years. As a precautionary measure, the ANSM has recommended since 2012 that this preservative should not be used in cosmetic products intended to be applied to babies' bottoms, and that a maximum concentration of 0.4 % should be set for other products intended for children under 3. Subsequently, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded in its October 2016 opinion that phenoxyethanol used at 1 % in cosmetic products is safe for health, regardless of age group.
ANSM decided to continue its investigations and in 2017 set up a temporary specialized scientific committee (CSST) made up of experts in toxicology, epidemiology, expology, dermatology and allergology. This committee was tasked with assessing the relevance of maintaining the 2012 recommendations. The experts concluded that "the 2012 recommendation not to use phenoxyethanol in cosmetic products intended for babies' bottoms should be maintained. It is also desirable to extend it to wipes, which are commonly used to clean young children's bottoms. For all other cosmetic products intended for children aged 3 or under, the maximum concentration of phenoxyethanol could remain at 1 %".
Phenoxyethanol and the "cocktail" effect
However, the French Agence Nationale de Sécurité du Médicament warns against the "cocktail" effect resulting from frequent and repeated use of products containing phenoxyethanol. While the occasional application of a product containing this preservative may be harmless, it is the frequency and multiplication of products containing this preservative that may present risks. In addition, questions remain as to possible links between the concentration of phenoxyacetic acid (a component of phenoxyethanol) and fertility. Because of its potential effect on hormones, this preservative is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.