What is "POLYGLUTAMIC ACID" and what does it do?

Role: HUMECTANT

Family: AMINE ACID

Comedogenic index: 0

Polyglutamic acid is a water-soluble humectant, effective in attracting and retaining moisture in the skin. It is formed by polymerization of glutamic acid via bacterial fermentation, using Bacillus subtilis.

Comparison with Hyaluronic Acid
This ingredient has a moisturizing efficacy that can rival or even surpass that of hyaluronic acid.

Origins and nature of polyglutamic acid
Polyglutamic acid is a unique peptide made up of glutamic acid chains. Historically, it has been attributed mainly to its nutritional properties, particularly through its principal role in nattô, a traditional Japanese dish made from fermented soybeans. However, its reputation as a cosmetic ingredient has recently taken off.

Features and applications
Variety of Molecular Weights
Similar to hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid is available in a range of molecular weights, providing multi-level hydration and preventing skin dehydration.

Fight against skin ageing
1. Forms a protective film: Polyglutamic acid forms a film on the skin's surface, acting like a shield against dehydration. Its moisturizing potential is astounding, surpassing even that of hyaluronic acid, renowned for its hydrating properties.

2. Hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition: Hyaluronic acid, naturally present in our skin, loses quality and quantity with age. Polyglutamic acid acts by inhibiting the hyaluronidase enzyme, responsible for the breakdown of hyaluronic acid. This helps prevent the appearance of signs of aging.

Dosage in Cosmetics
This compound has remarkable moisturizing properties, acting as a film-forming agent. It creates a protective barrier on the epidermis, defending it against various external aggressions. Many cosmetic formulas incorporate it to target dry skin and prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. However, it is crucial to respect recommended concentrations, generally ranging from 0.3 to 3%. Above these levels, the risk of skin fragility and redness increases.

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