What is "TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE" and what does it do?

Role: EMOLLIENT

Family: VITAMIN C Derivative

Comedogenic index: 0

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, often referred to by the acronym THD, is a stabilized form of vitamin C, similar to L-ascorbic acid. Unlike ascorbic acid, THD is fat-soluble, enabling it to penetrate the skin easily.

Features and Properties

Skin enzymes transform THD into pure ascorbic acid. Its solubility in lipids enables it to collaborate with vitamin E naturally present in the skin or in skincare products. It therefore acts differently from water-soluble ascorbic acid.
Some experts believe that THD is better assimilated by the skin because its fatty acid component facilitates penetration. It combines effectively with other forms of vitamin C, E, green tea and retinol to boost its effectiveness.

Antioxidant action

THD specifically neutralizes the free radicals that damage skin lipids such as ceramides. It functions primarily as an antioxidant, while water-soluble ascorbic acid neutralizes other types of free radicals.

Fighting Pigmentation Spots

If the aim is to target hyperpigmentation, concentrations of 5% or higher are recommended. Combined with ingredients such as niacinamide and licorice root, it offers synergistic results, improving even stubborn hyperpigmentation.

Appearance and Formulation

THD has a light oily texture and ranges in color from colorless to pale yellow. Although it can be used in water-based formulas, it is best combined with silicones or oils for optimum bioavailability.

Precautions for use

Despite its stability, THD is not totally resistant to degradation when exposed to prolonged light and high temperatures. It is therefore advisable to choose products containing this ingredient in opaque packaging.

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