Focus on tranexamic acid

Melasma, brown spots, acne scars, photoaging, dark circles: many people are unable to regain a clear, even complexion. And with good reason: hyperpigmentation problems are multifactorial and difficult to correct. Treatments are sometimes ineffective, sometimes too aggressive. Today, I'd like to talk to you about a molecule long relegated to second place in depigmenting treatments: tranexamic acid. This substance has been back in the spotlight in recent years, and many marquess are starting to offer tranexamic acid-based cosmetics, as it is increasingly recognized as a cosmetic active ingredient of choice for treating pigmentation disorders in your skin, while respecting individual skin sensitivities.

But the important question is: Is this the right choice for you, knowing that there are already countless molecules available to fight skin blemishes? That's what we're going to see in this video, but not the only one! How was tranexamic acid discovered? How does it work on your skin? What dosage to choose and how to use tranexamic acid-based treatments ? Stay tuned until the end of this video to find out which four anti-spot serums to try to eliminate stubborn hyperpigmentation!

Tranexamic acid: Discovery, origin and action

Tranexamic acid is a derivative of lysine. Lysine is an amino acid essential to our bodies. It is one of the building blocks of skin proteins such as keratin. Discovered in the 60s by Japanese researchers Shosuke and Utako Okamoto, this molecule was originally developed to reduce maternal deaths due to obstetric haemorrhage. However, despite its low cost, it was not a success, and the scientific community preferred other substances. It has been given a second lease of life by the CRASH 2 study in 2010, when it was administered in trauma departments to reduce hemorrhage. In 2011, it was recommended by the WHO as a therapeutic treatment. And that's how I first heard about tranexamic acid, back when I was operating on major traumas and the anaesthetist could be asked to give an injection of exacyl to limit bleeding.
At the same time, it is finding a second life in cosmetology and dermatology thanks to its lightening properties. These virtues were fortuitously discovered in the 1970s by Dr. Nijo Sadako. To treat hives in one of his patients, he used tranexamic acid orally, and the hyperpigmentation began to diminish. This side effect opened the door to numerous scientific studies demonstrating the depigmenting action of tranexamic acid. Today, its use by the cutaneous route helps to reduce various skin hyperpigmentation problems, such as : 
melasma;
brown spots caused by photoaging
skin scars caused by an overproduction of melanin after an inflammatory reaction such as an injury or acne lesions
red spots linked to vascular anomalies such as couperose or telangiectasia.

On melasma, for example, a scientific study shows that a 5 % solution of tranexamic acid is as effective as a 3 % solution of hydroquinone. And with fewer side effects. Tranexamic acid plays a dual role in regulating melanogenesis and reducing cutaneous hypervascularization, two components of melasma.

Tranexamic acid: mechanisms of action

Fight against hyperpigmentation

The first action is that tranexamic acid improves hyperpigmentation by acting on melanogenesis. In simple terms, this synthetic molecule regulates the action of tyrosinase, the enzyme that initiates melanin production. And less melanin synthesized prevents the formation of brown spots or melasma. In addition, other scientific studies show that tranexamic acid prevents interactions between melanocytes and keratinocytes, thus blocking the transfer of pigments to the surface of your epidermis and the appearance of pigmentation disorders.
Finally, pathologies such as melasma are linked to an overproduction of melanin, but also to :
neovascularization
an increase in mast cells, which are immune cells that play an important role in hyperpigmentation.
After eight weeks of topical use of tranexamic acid, the following was observed:
reduced cutaneous hypervascularization and regulation of blood vessel growth factors
And a reduction in mast cells.
For more information on melasma.

Fights redness

Tranexamic acid never ceases to amaze! It's an effective option for rosacea-prone skin. These pathologies result from a vascular disorder and cutaneous inflammation. They are visually expressed by fine, reddish, purplish vessels on the skin's surface. A team of Greek dermatologists used a topical treatment based on tranexamic acid for 4 months on 20 rosacea patients. Significant skin improvements revealed the vasoconstrictive and anti-inflammatory potential of this lysine derivative. 

Improved wound healing

The third action is that this molecule is capable of preventing and improving pathological scarring.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is quite common, especially in patients with dark skin and in sun-exposed areas. marquess are more noticeable, reddish, pinkish or purplish. Although its mechanism is still poorly understood, the hypothesis put forward by clinical studies to date is that tranexamic acid prevents excess scar pigmentation by blocking the transfer of melanin to the keratinocytes involved in skin reconstruction.

Anti-inflammatory action

Finally, this substance is said to have promising anti-aging properties. Indeed, a 2016 experiment demonstrated that oral tranexamic acid could reduce the formation of wrinkles. A Japanese study administered tranexamic acid to mice for 20 days. These rodents suffered from dry skin and wrinkles. The results showed that this molecule increased fibroblast proliferation and reduced wrinkles.

Tranexamic acid serums

Tranexamic acid care

On the cosmetic care side, we find thetranexamic acid in serum, cream or lotion form. After all these scientific explanations, you'll have understood that tranexamic acid is ideal on its own, or as a complement to other anti-spot active ingredients such as niacinamide or vitamin C. It maximizes the effectiveness of your beauty routine to get rid of hyperpigmented areas. Used once or twice a day, the optimal concentration for a lightening effect is between 2 and 5 %. This active ingredient is fairly well tolerated and is not photosensitizing. However, beyond the recommended doses and frequencies, irritation and redness may occur. 
For fragile or already sensitized skin, I recommend starting gradually, once a day at first.

And now, let's look at four cosmetic treatments that are easy to integrate into your skincare routine and effective in combating your facial pigment anomalies. I've chosen serums because they're generally the products with the highest concentration of active ingredients, and therefore the most likely to treat the causes of your color irregularities in depth.

Even if tranexamic acid is effective in preventing and erasing spots, it's essential to apply sun protection factor 50 UV A and B every morning. Exposure to the sun, however minimal, is one of the primary factors in skin hyperpigmentation and automatically induces photoaging of your tissues. 
I hope you've enjoyed this video, and please feel free to share your thoughts on these products in the comments.

Sources:
Tranexamic Acid Inhibits Angiogenesis and Melanogenesis in Vitro by Targeting VEGF Receptors (medsci.org)

Efficacy of intradermal tranexamic acid in melasma: a study of 20 cases - ScienceDirect

Interest of tranexamic acid in urological endoscopic resections: prospective randomized study - ScienceDirect

Tranexamic acid in the management of postpartum hemorrhage: current knowledge (revmed.ch)

(PDF) A Randomized Controlled Study Comparing the Efficacy of Topical 5% Tran examic Acid Solution versus 3% Hydroquinone Cream in Melasma (researchgate.net)
Topical 5% tranexamic acid with 30% glycolic acid peel: An useful combination for accelerating the improvement in melasma - PubMed (nih.gov)

[PDF] A Split Face Comparative Study of Safety and Efficacy of Microneedling with Tranexamic Acid versus Microneedling with Vitamin C in the Treatment of Melasma | Semantic Scholar

Effectiveness of tranexamic acid in the treatment of hyperpigmented postoperative scars - ScienceDirect

The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin dryness - PubMed (nih.gov)

Intradermal tranexamic acid microinjections: a novel treatment option for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea - PubMed (nih.gov)