Why use vitamin C derivatives in cosmetics?
Are these vitamin C are scams? Because they simply don't contain pure vitamin C. They contain vitamin C derivatives. Well, let's talk about vitamin C derivatives!
Water-soluble vitamin C precursors
I'm going to introduce you to 3 of them. Their advantages are that they can be found in aqueous products, which is ideal for combination or oily skin. Their disadvantages are that their ability to cross the skin barrier can be questionable.
MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE:
The Ordinary had a product with this derivative of the Vitamin C but they're currently reformulating it. It's also found in Vichy's hydra Mag C anti-fatigue moisturizer.
So, back to MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE. There is no published scientific evidence of its antioxidant capacities, but in-vitro studies show that MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE can stimulate collagen synthesis, has skin-brightening properties in-vivo, and may play a role in reducing blemishes.
ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE
We find him in the famous serum from The Ordinary but also, to a lesser extent, in L'Oréal Anti-Wrinkle Serum Revitalift Filler or Jonzac Wrinkle Radiance Serum. Derivatives includeAscorbyl Glucoside is distinguished by many advantages! Enhanced stability. Unlike pure vitamin C, Ascorbyl Glucoside is stable, making it easy to formulate. In vitro studies show its ability to penetrate the skin, which is important for a hydrophilic derivative, but in vivo research is still needed. Once absorbed by the skin, Ascorbyl Glucoside would be converted into pure vitamin C, potentially offering all the associated benefits, without too many drawbacks!
SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE
Visit SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE is a derivative that has been the subject of a number of studies comparing it to pure vitamin C, with highly promising results on wrinkles and pigmentation spots. And it is notably present in Typology Radiance Serum.
Lipophilic vitamin C derivatives
Their advantage over aqueous derivatives is that they easily penetrate the skin barrier.
ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE
The first is L'ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE remember this name. You'll find it in lots of products, like SVR's C20 Biotic, Sephora's Vitamine Pamplemousse mask or Caudalie's Vinergetic C serum.
TETRAHEXYKDECYL ASCORBATE
The second is the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbatefound in Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution a 20%.
But wait, why did The Ordinary call this serum vitamin C? Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and uses another derivative, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, in its serum. I didn't get it, so I did a bit of research and came to the conclusion that it could be the same molecule. In fact, the difference between the two molecules would be so minimal that in most products they would indeed be the same ingredient.
Incidentally, this derivative is found in small quantities in Paulas Choice's Clinical 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol. This derivative is more stable than pure vitamin C, and can be mixed with retinol, but may still degrade if exposed to UV rays.Research shows that it appears to possess the three essential properties of vitamin C: antioxidant protection, increased collagen synthesis and a brightening effect. Although the results of in-vitro studies are remarkable, more in-vivo studies are needed before it becomes the number 1 derivative.
Derivatives that are soluble in oil and water.
3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
Visit 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDpresent in Sérum Booster à la Vitamine C 25% by Novexpert or CRÈME ÉCLAT UNIFIANTE by Nooance.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
And theEthyl Ascorbic Acid which is an esterified derivative of ascorbic acid. It can be found in a product from The Ordinary at 15% and in a vitamin C serum from Niod which I find very effective against spots.
Ascorbyl palmitate: the disappointing derivative
Designed to solve vitamin C stability problems while preserving its benefits, theAscorbyl palmitate, however, doesn't seem to live up to all its promises. Its stability is similar to that of pure ascorbic acid, which means that it is not really stable. What's more, unlike pure vitamin C, which is water-soluble, this derivative is fat-soluble. In fact, most of the time it's found at the very end of the formulation, serving no useful purpose other than to allow the brand to proudly advertise the fact that their product contains Vitamin C. But don't panic, there are some promising derivatives out there!