Dossier - Cosmetic active ingredients

Niacinamide: the complete file of the 14 serums on the market.

The most versatile active ingredient in cosmetics - sebum, spots, barrier, redness, anti-aging. A routine active ingredient, not a treatment active ingredient. Fourteen serums analyzed, four areas of action, 265 reviews compiled.

Author Dr Sylvain David
Expertise Independent cosmetic analysis
Sera analyzed 14 references - 4 axes
Compiled opinions 265 BeautyDecoded returns
Analyze my serum in the app
Score out of 100 - Customized for your skin
14
In-depth serum analysis
4
Distinct lines of action
265
Compiled user reviews
Mechanisms of action

What it says literature.

Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3. It is involved in numerous metabolic pathways in the skin - precisely what makes it the most versatile active ingredient in modern skincare.

01

Sebum regulation

Documented inhibition of sebaceous secretion. Visible mattifying effect after 4 to 8 weeks at concentrations of 2-5 %.

02

Pigment correction

Inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes - a pathway distinct from that of tyrosinase. Complementary to vitamin C and azelaic acid.

03

Barrier reinforcement

Stimulates synthesis of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol - the three major lipid components of the stratum corneum.

04

Anti-inflammatory action

Reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines. Documented benefits for redness and mild rosacea.

Note from Dr Sylvain David

«Niacinamide is the active ingredient I systematically include in routines for combination to oily skin and sensitive skin. Its versatility and excellent tolerance make it an ideal base active - to be combined with other targeted actives depending on the issues.»

Its tolerance is excellent for almost all skin profiles, making it an ideal choice for all skin types. a routine asset, not a processing asset.

Reading guide

What dose for what objective ?

Niacinamide concentration determines the desired effect. Unlike other active ingredients, there is no benefit in exceeding 10 % - on the contrary, the risk of irritation increases.

ConcentrationDocumented effectsIdeal profile
2 - 5 %Moisturizing, barrier-enhancing, light anti-rednessSensitive skin, beginners, basic routine
5 - 10 %+ Sebum regulation, pigment correction, pore reductionCombination to oily skin, blemishes
10 %Maximum effects - anti-spot, sebum-regulating, anti-blemishProfiles targeting several objectives simultaneously
> 10 %Increased risk of transient flushing, no additional benefitNot recommended for daily use
✅
Exceptional tolerance. Niacinamide is one of the best-tolerated active ingredients in cosmetics, in all concentrations up to 10 %. Compatible with pregnancy, can be used morning and night, non-photosensitizing.
⚠️
Flush effect. Niacinamide is well tolerated up to 5 %. At 10 % and above, the risk of irritation increases, and in rare cases a flush may occur, often linked to conversion to niacin rather than to niacinamide itself.
Comparison table

The 14 sera analyzed, at a glance.

Before going into the details of each formulation, here's the complete cartography of the selection, classified by main objective.

Sebum + imperfections

Salicylic Acid Serum 2% + Niacinamide 3%

Horace

Oily acne-prone skin - salicylic + niacinamide

3 %
Sebum + imperfections

Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

The Ordinary

Oily acne-prone skin - most commented

10 %
Sebum + imperfections

Niacinamide 10% + Copper + Zinc

Aroma-Zone

Oily combination skin - triple synergy

10 %
Sebum + imperfections

B-Bomb 10% Niacinamide

Geek & Gorgeous

Oily skin - best Q/P ratio

10 %
Anti-dark spot + redness

LIFTACTIV Serum B3

Vichy

Intensive anti-spot - niacinamide + tranexamic

N.P.
Barrier + moisturizing - Anti-aging

Hydra Vitamin B3 ampoule

SVR

Sensitive dry skin - pharmacy

5 %
Anti-dark spot + redness

NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4%

Anua

Blemishes + redness - complete formula

10 %
Anti-dark spot + redness

Mela B3 Anti-Spot Serum

La Roche-Posay

Pigment spots - dermo

10 %
Barrier + hydration

Soothing & Barrier Support

The Ordinary

Reactive sensitive skin - retinol supplement

5 %
Barrier + hydration

Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide

Beauty of Joseon

Acne-prone combination skin - K-beauty

2 %
Barrier + hydration

MINERAL 89 Probiotic Fractions

Vichy

Unbalanced sensitive skin - microbiome

N.P.
Barrier + hydration

Hyaluron Activ B3 Serum

Avene

Sensitive dry skin - minimalist

6 %
Anti-aging

Booster 10% Niacinamide

Paula's Choice

Anti-ageing - antioxidants - ubiquinone, carnosine

10 %
Anti-ageing - Nooance

Multi-active serum 5 hyaluronic acids

Nooance

Firmness, wrinkles, plumping - the best anti-aging formula

5 %
Part 01

Sebum, pores and imperfections

Maximum recommended concentration (10 %) - Sebum-regulating, blemish-fighting action - Combination to oily skin.

Niacinamide serums 10 % are the best documented for regulating sebum, reducing the appearance of pores and correcting slight imperfections. They are suitable for combination to oily skin, and can be incorporated into morning and evening. Their tolerance is excellent for almost all profiles at this concentration.

Horace

Salicylic Acid Serum 2% + Niacinamide 3%

★★★★½4,67/5(3 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Sebum + imperfections - N°1
INCI (extract) : AQUA, PROPANEDIOL, GLYCERIN, NIACINAMIDE, ZINC PCA, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SALICYLIC ACID, ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE, ACACIA SENEGAL GUM, XANTHAN GUM, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE...

Niacinamide 3 % in 4th INCI position, combined with salicylic acid 2 % (comedolytic, keratolytic) and zinc PCA (sebum-reducing) in a compact, effective formula. Salicylic acid penetrates the hair follicle and dissolves sebaceous plugs - a complementary mechanism to niacinamide for sebum regulation. Contains ascorbyl glucoside (stable vitamin C derivative) and saccharide isomerate (humectant). Fragrance-free.

⚠️ Sensitivity verdict Potential mild irritation. 2 % salicylic acid may dry out very dry skin. Not recommended for reactive sensitive skin without gradual introduction.
User feedback
«No direct feedback available on this INCI - Horace feedback is mainly on other products from the brand.»
Summary - one of the most relevant combinations for oily acne-prone skin: the triple synergy of salicylic acid + niacinamide + zinc PCA acts simultaneously on blackheads (salicylic), sebum regulation (niacinamide + zinc) and radiance (ascorbyl glucoside). A concise, well-constructed formula, positioned for the male market but suitable for all acne profiles.
The Ordinary

Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

★★★★½4,43/5(82 BeautyDecoded reviews)
The most commented
Full INCI : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, ZINC PCA, DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE, TAMARINDUS INDICA SEED GUM, XANTHAN GUM, ISOCETETH-20, ETHOXYDIGLYCOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, CHLORPHENESIN

Minimalist formula: niacinamide in 2nd position, combined with zinc PCA (sebum-reducing). The extremely short INCI is a strength - no superfluous ingredients, easily combined with other active ingredients. Light aqueous texture suitable for oily skin.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. One of the best-tolerated formulas in the selection - confirmed by the very broad base of user reviews.
User feedback
«I've been using it for 2 years - my pores are much less visible and my skin is smooth.»
«It's great for oily skin.»
«I haven't seen any effect on my acne.»
Summary - the largest review database of the selection (82 reviews). Streamlined formula, documented efficacy on pores and sebum. Expectations on inflammatory acne may exceed what niacinamide alone can offer - for this profile, combination with azelaic or salicylic acid is more relevant. Unbeatable price.
Aroma-Zone

Serum Concentrate Niacinamide 10%, Copper & Zinc

★★★★½4,46/5(25 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Triple synergy
Full INCI : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, SALIX NIGRA BARK EXTRACT, ZINC PCA, SODIUM HYALURONATE, COPPER PCA, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1, GLYCERIN, LEVULINIC ACID, SODIUM LEVULINATE, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, SODIUM ANISATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE

Niacinamide at 10 % combined with two active minerals Zinc PCA (sebum-reducing) and copper PCA (stimulates collagen synthesis, antibacterial action). Fragrance-free, alcohol-free formula. Refillable - a significant ecological advantage.

⚠️ Sensitivity verdict Potential risk of mild irritation. The niacinamide + copper PCA combination may react with copper peptides used in parallel in the routine - monitor associations.
User feedback
«Diminishes imperfections. Easy to apply, absorbs well.»
«Very good value for money. Having blemish-prone skin, this has helped me tremendously.»
«I haven't seen any improvement on pigmentation spots and it's a bit sticky.»
Summary - formula enriched with the triple synergy of niacinamide + zinc + copper. Suitable for oily skin with imperfections. Refillable - tangible environmental benefit.
Geek & Gorgeous

B-Bomb 10% Niacinamide Serum

★★★★★5,00/5(9 reviews BeautyDecoded)
Best Q/P - 10 %
Full INCI : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERETH-26, ZINC PCA, SARCOSINE, PROPANEDIOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, XANTHAN GUM, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PHENOXYETHANOL

Niacinamide at 10 % with zinc PCA and sarcosine - an N-methylated amino acid with moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. Light, fragrance-free, water-based formula. Made to order.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. Sarcosine adds an extra soothing dimension compared to niacinamide + zinc formulas alone.
User feedback
«No need to break the bank, this product delivers on its promises.»
«Very good value for money. Applies easily.»
«Mix with any serum for an added boost.»
Summary - A sober, effective formula with the best quality/price ratio in its category. Sarcosine sets this serum apart from conventional niacinamide + zinc formulas.
Part 02

Niacinamide anti-aging peptides and hyaluronic acids

Niacinamide combined with peptide and humectant complexes - Firming, wrinkles, plumping - Mature or preventive skin.

In addition to its sebum-regulating and anti-pigmentary effects, niacinamide directly stimulates collagen and ceramide synthesis. Combined with multi-active peptide complexes and hyaluronic acids of different molecular weights, It develops a global anti-aging action - firmness, deep hydration, wrinkle reduction. These formulas are designed for mature skins or profiles seeking to integrate a well-tolerated basic anti-aging active ingredient.

Nooance

Multi-active serum 5 hyaluronic acids

★★★★☆4,36/5(18 reviews BeautyDecoded)
Anti-aging - the best formula
INCI (extract) : AQUA, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, NIACINAMIDE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, HYDROLYZED YEAST EXTRACT, GLYCERETH-26, PANTHENOL, HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID, SODIUM HYALURONATE, SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE, SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, HYDROLYZED SODIUM HYALURONATE, POLYGLUTAMIC ACID, CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF CELL EXTRACT, SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL BETA-GLUCAN, POLYGLUCURONIC ACID, CARNOSINE, ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8, N-PROLYL PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-56 ACETATE, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1, PALMITOYL HEPTAPEPTIDE-27, PALMITOYL OCTAPEPTIDE-24, ARGININE, PHOSPHOLIPIDS, LECITHIN, SPHINGOLIPIDS, ALPHA-ARBUTIN, TOCOPHEROL...

Niacinamide at 5 % in 3rd INCI position in a remarkable formulative architecture: 5 forms of hyaluronic acid (high-mass crosspolymer, low-mass hydrolyzed, acetylated, carboxymethylated and standard), polyglutamic acid (humectant superior to hyaluronic acid), carnosine (dipeptide antioxidant), 8 synthetic peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl heptapeptide-27, palmitoyl octapeptide-24...), centella asiatica extract, sphingolipids, phospholipids and alpha-arbutin. Fragrance-free. Formulative density is exceptional for a mainstream cosmetic serum.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Optimum tolerance. Alcohol-, fragrance- and irritant-free formula. Suitable for both dry and oily skin. The presence of sphingolipids simultaneously reinforces the skin barrier.
User feedback
«First time I've noticed that my skin is smoother, plumper and wrinkles less visible after 2 months of use. And my forehead is well wrinkled.»
«Moisturizing, plumping and a real wrinkle iron - gives real elasticity. Non-comedogenic. I really like it coupled with the copper peptide.»
«Super serum, very moisturizing, penetrates well. Downside: a little pricey.»
«My skin is plumper and smoother since I've been using it combined with a niacinamide serum.»
Summary - the most complete anti-aging formula in the niacinamide selection. The combination of 5 hyaluronic acids + 8 synthetic peptides + polyglutamic acid + carnosine forms a first-rate humectant and tensor architecture. The anti-aging action of niacinamide is enhanced tenfold by collagen-stimulating peptides. The high price and ultra-fluid texture (requiring 3 to 5 drops on slightly damp skin) are the main drawbacks. A relevant option for profiles targeting firmness and wrinkle reduction as part of a basic routine.
Paula's Choice

Booster 10% Niacinamide

★★★☆☆3,00/5(3 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Antioxidants + anti-aging
Full INCI : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE, ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PHOSPHOLIPIDS, SODIUM HYALURONATE, ALLANTOIN, BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA ROOT EXTRACT, GLYCERIN, DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT, UBIQUINONE, EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE, BETA-GLUCAN, PANTHENOL, CARNOSINE, GENISTEIN, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM CITRATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, XANTHAN GUM, DISODIUM EDTA, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PHENOXYETHANOL

Niacinamide at 10 % combined with a remarkable antioxidant range: ubiquinone (CoQ10, mitochondrial antioxidant), EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate - green tea polyphenol), carnosine (antioxidant and anti-glycation dipeptide), genistein (isoflavone with documented estrogenimimetic activity on firmness), acetyl glucosamine (precursor of hyaluronic acid) and beta-glucan (immunomodulating, healing). Fragrance-free formula. Booster format - add to serum or moisturizer.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Favorable tolerance (sensitivity score +1.0). Alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula enriched with soothing active ingredients (allantoin, panthenol, licorice extract).
User feedback
«Coupled with vitamin C from the same brand, this niacinamide treatment visibly improves skin texture.»
«Combined with azelaic acid it's very good - penetrates the skin very well, doesn't leave a greasy film. But on its own, I haven't seen any results.»
«I didn't see any effect on my skin and considering the price of this product I'm quite disappointed.»
Summary - the densest antioxidant formula in the niacinamide selection. The presence of CoQ10, EGCG, carnosine and genistein in a niacinamide 10 % booster constitutes a coherent multi-mechanism anti-aging approach. User feedback is mixed when used alone - this booster is designed to be combined, not used in isolation. A relevant option for profiles seeking to enrich an existing anti-aging routine.
Part 03

Niacinamide associated: anti-spot and anti-redness

Niacinamide combined with synergistic active ingredients - Enhanced pigment correction - Redness and uneven skin tone.

Niacinamide is a background active ingredient that potentiates the action of other anti-pigmentation active ingredients - including tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and vitamin C.

Vichy

LIFTACTIV Serum B3

★★★★★5,00/5(3 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Anti-stain - N°1
INCI (extract) : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID, GLYCERIN, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, PROPANEDIOL, HYDROXYETHYL UREA, GLYCOLIC ACID, ARGININE, TRANEXAMIC ACID, HYDROLYZED RICE PROTEIN, ALLANTOIN, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE...

Niacinamide in 2nd INCI position, combined with tranexamic acid and glycolic acid (exfoliating AHA) in a Vichy reference anti-spot formula. The presence of HEPES (hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid) ensures pH stability, a key criterion for the effectiveness of acidic active ingredients. Rice protein hydrolysate adds a film-forming moisturizing dimension. The combination of niacinamide + tranexamic acid + AHA is one of the most complete anti-spot approaches available in cosmetics. Fragrance-free.

⚠️ Sensitivity verdict Moderate potential risk of irritation. The presence of glycolic acid (AHA) requires gradual use and SPF 50+ photoprotection in the morning. Not recommended for highly reactive skin without prior introduction.
User feedback
«Fast attenuation of a stain over 1 cm despite a somewhat random application. Very well tolerated.»
«Very good serum, effective over the long term. No irritation.»
«Results obtained but in the long term. Fragrance-free.»
Summary - one of the most comprehensive anti-spot formulas on the cosmetics market: niacinamide + tranexamic acid + glycolic acid in a pH-controlled vehicle. The triple anti-pigmentation action (inhibition of melanosome transfer + action on the melanocyte-keratinocyte bond + exfoliation) is consistent and well-documented. A relevant option for profiles with established pigmentation spots, particularly post-inflammatory or sun-induced.
SVR Laboratory

Hydra Vitamin B3 ampoule

★★★★½4,44/5(54 BeautyDecoded reviews)
The most commented of the game
Full INCI : AQUA, GLYCERIN, NIACINAMIDE, ISOPENTYLDIOL, SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID, SODIUM HYALURONATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE

Niacinamide at 5 % combined with a triple hyaluronic acid complex in an ultra-light formula. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free. The main focus is on moisturizing and reducing redness.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free formula, confirmed for sensitive skin by a very broad user feedback base.
User feedback
«Super serum that moisturizes dry skin. Negative point: it's a bit sticky.»
«A serum I love for its plumping effect and protection against pigmentation spots.»
«Applied in the evening, it is perfect before the nourishing cream and retinol.»
Summary - the broadest review base of the niacinamide selection (54 reviews). Moisturizing and soothing formula. A relevant option for dry to sensitive skin looking for a niacinamide available in pharmacies.
Anua

Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4%

★★★★½4,55/5(10 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Niacinamide + tranexamic acid
INCI (extract) : AQUA, GLYCERIN, NIACINAMIDE, TRANEXAMIC ACID, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, DIETHOXYETHYL SUCCINATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, ARBUTIN, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM HYALURONATE, XANTHAN GUM, BETAINE SALICYLATE, ALPHA-ARBUTIN, CERAMIDE NP, PANTHENOL, POLYGLUTAMIC ACID, 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID...

Niacinamide at 10 % combined with tranexamic acid at 4 % anti-pigmentation combination documented by complementary methods. Enriched with alpha-arbutin, arbutin, vitamin C derivative and ceramide NP.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Favorable tolerance. Soothing active ingredients (panthenol, ceramide) reduce the risk of irritation associated with high concentrations.
User feedback
«If you have reactive skin or skin with imperfections, or even melasma - this serum will be great.»
«10 % of niacinamide is too much for my sensitive skin - I got redness.»
«Perfect for removing dark spots - effective without harshness.»
Summary - the most complete formula for pigment correction. The dual action of niacinamide + tranexamic acid is the most effective approach available in cosmetics for post-inflammatory spots and mild melasma.
La Roche-Posay

Mela B3 Anti-Dark Spot Serum

★★★★½4,58/5(18 reviews BeautyDecoded - 10 %)
Anti-spot - dermo range
INCI (extract) : AQUA, DIMETHICONE, NIACINAMIDE, GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, POLYSILICONE-11, SILICA, CYSTOSEIRA TAMARISCIFOLIA EXTRACT, 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, SODIUM THIOSULFATE, CARNOSINE, CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID, TOCOPHEROL, RETINYL PALMITATE...

Niacinamide in a formula enriched with a patented active ingredient (2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine - a niacinamide derivative with anti-recurrence action), carnosine, a gentle exfoliant and retinyl palmitate. Presence of fragrance.

⚠️ Sensitivity verdict Potential for moderate irritation. The presence of fragrance and an exfoliant may not be suitable for very sensitive or reactive skin.
User feedback
«Ultra effective on acne scars and dark skin spots - visible results in one month.»
«Pleasant to use. Diminished my spots.»
«Used to correct my sunspots. After two bottles, a slight improvement.»
Summary - dermo-cosmetic formula built around a patented anti-recurrence active ingredient. A relevant option for profiles with recurrent pigmentation spots. The presence of fragrance is the main limitation for very sensitive skin.
Part 04

Barrier and moisturizing

Moderate concentrations (2-6 %) - Skin barrier reinforcement - Sensitive, dry, reactive skin.

At concentrations of 2 to 6 %, niacinamide acts primarily to strengthen the skin barrier and reduce redness. These formulas are particularly suited to sensitive, dry or reactive skin, and to profiles seeking to stabilize their barrier when irritating active ingredients are introduced (retinol, AHA).

SVR Laboratory - 5 %

Hydra Vitamin B3 ampoule

★★★★½4,44/5(54 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Barrière + anti-taches - most commented
Full INCI : AQUA, GLYCERIN, NIACINAMIDE, ISOPENTYLDIOL, SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID, SODIUM HYALURONATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE

Niacinamide at 5 % combined with a triple hyaluronic acid complex in an ultra-light formula. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free. This serum is particularly suited to sensitive dry skin: niacinamide simultaneously strengthens the skin barrier, reduces slight redness and offers a progressive anti-spot action. It can be used morning and night. Available in pharmacies.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free formula, confirmed for sensitive skin by a very broad user feedback base (54 reviews).
User feedback
«Super serum that moisturizes dry skin. Negative point: it's a bit sticky.»
«A serum I love for its plumping effect and protection against pigmentation spots.»
«Applied in the evening, it is perfect before the nourishing cream and retinol.»
Summary - the largest review base of the entire selection (54 reviews). Moisturizing, soothing and slightly anti-pigmentary formula. First choice for dry to sensitive skin looking for a multi-purpose niacinamide available in pharmacies. Slight stickiness is the only recurring drawback.
The Ordinary

Soothing & Barrier Support Serum

★★★★½4,56/5(18 reviews BeautyDecoded - 5 %)
Retinol supplement
INCI (extract) : AQUA, PROPANEDIOL, ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, NIACINAMIDE, HEXYLDECANOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE, CETETH-20 PHOSPHATE, ETHYL LINOLEATE, ASIATICOSIDE, ASIATIC ACID, MADECASSIC ACID, NARINGENIN, CYANOCOBALAMIN, BISABOLOL, BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS STEROLS, SPHINGOLIPIDS, PHOSPHOLIPIDS, EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATYL GLUCOSIDE, TOCOPHEROL...

Niacinamide with 5 % in a formula exceptionally enriched Centella asiatica, naringenin, cyanocobalamin (vitamin B12), sphingolipids, phospholipids, sterols and tocopherol. Designed to strengthen the skin barrier and soothe irritation. ideal complement to the introduction of retinol or AHAs.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. Formula specifically designed to soothe irritated or weakened skin.
User feedback
«I use it before I put on my retinol 0.3 %, an hour before. It protects the skin barrier.»
«This serum soothes skin irritated by tretinoin and AHAs. Vitamin B12 relieves itching. A must-have.»
«Super serum. It preserves the skin barrier. I use it in the evening before retinol, no negative effects.»
Summary - the most complete formula on the barrier and soothing axis. Sandwich use with retinol or AHAs - a documented approach to reducing irritation without compromising the efficacy of the active ingredient.
Beauty of Joseon

Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide

★★★★★4,80/5(10 reviews BeautyDecoded - 2 %)
K-beauty - propolis + niacinamide
INCI (extract) : PROPOLIS EXTRACT, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, MELIA AZADIRACHTA FLOWER EXTRACT, SODIUM HYALURONATE, CURCUMA LONGA ROOT EXTRACT, THEOBROMA CACAO SEED EXTRACT, MELALEUCA ALTERNIFOLIA LEAF EXTRACT, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, CALOPHYLLUM INOPHYLLUM SEED OIL, BETAINE SALICYLATE, TOCOPHEROL...

Propolis in 1st position INCI - bee resin with antibacterial and healing properties - combined with niacinamide, centella asiatica, curcumin and calophyllum (tamanu) oil.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Favorable tolerance. Propolis and centella asiatica provide soothing properties that complement niacinamide.
User feedback
«My skin feels soft and moisturized. My imperfections are gradually disappearing.»
«Gentle serum that penetrates well. Leaves skin feeling comfortable.»
«Too bad it's not more concentrated in niacinamide - I'm forced to add a niacinamide 10 % serum to my routine.»
Summary - Well-constructed K-beauty formula. A relevant option for acne-prone skin looking for a gentle, multi-purpose serum.
Vichy

MINERAL 89 Probiotic Fractions

★★★★½4,71/5(7 BeautyDecoded reviews)
Microbiome + niacinamide
INCI (extract) : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, PROPANEDIOL, PEG/PPG/POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8/5/3 GLYCERIN, GLYCERIN, METHYL GLUCETH-20, PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, CARBOMER, SODIUM HYALURONATE, TOCOPHEROL, HYDROXYACETOPHENONE, VITREOSCILLA FERMENT, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1, MALTODEXTRIN, BUTYLENE GLYCOL

Niacinamide combined with ferment of Vitreoscilla documented for its action on the skin microbiome, hyaluronic acid and tocopherol.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. Two years of use with no reaction in regular users according to available feedback.
User feedback
«Good moisturizer with probiotics and niacinamide to rebalance the skin barrier. I've been using it for two years.»
«Very good moisturizer. As good as SVR's B3 ampoule.»
«Moisturizes well and reduces redness.»
Summary - microbiome + niacinamide approach relevant for fragile barrier profiles. A relevant option for sensitive, reactive skin.
Avene

Hyaluron Activ B3 Serum

★★★★☆4,20/5(5 reviews BeautyDecoded - 6 %)
Minimalist - sensitive skin
Full INCI : AQUA, NIACINAMIDE, GLYCERIN, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM HYALURONATE, ADENOSINE, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM BENZOATE

The shortest INCI in the selection Niacinamide, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, adenosine. Ultra-purified Avene formula. Fragrance-free.

✅ Sensitivity verdict Excellent tolerance. The simplest, safest formula in the selection.
User feedback
«Moisturizes super well - a must for me.»
«Very pleasant and moisturizing, even plumping if applied to damp skin.»
«There are more effective serums for anti-aging properties. But for hydration, it does the job.»
Summary - ultra-minimalist formula, perfectly tolerated, focused on hydration and barrier. Option for highly sensitive profiles looking for a niacinamide without any superfluous ingredients.
Associations

This works - and what to look out for.

Niacinamide is one of the easiest active ingredients to combine. Its formulative neutrality makes it a mainstay of routines that can be superimposed on almost any other active ingredient.

Beneficial associations

Niacinamide + Zinc PCA

Documented sebum-regulating synergy - the majority of 10 % formulas already incorporate this combination.

Niacinamide + Tranexamic acid

Complementary anti-pigmentation combination - the most effective over-the-counter treatment available for post-inflammatory spots.

Niacinamide + Retinol

Niacinamide reinforces the barrier and reduces retinol-induced irritation. A validated combination recommended for the introductory phase.

Niacinamide + Vitamin C

Compatible. The incompatibility historically cited is not clinically significant in today's pH-stabilized formulations.

Niacinamide + Azelaic acid

Documented synergy for sebum regulation and pigment correction.

Associations to watch

Niacinamide + Copper peptides

Niacinamide can chelate copper ions and reduce the efficacy of copper peptides. Separate in routine if both active ingredients are present.

Niacinamide > 10 %

Concentrations above 10 % may cause a flush. Remain at 10 % maximum for daily use - no additional benefit.

Frequently asked questions

Everything you need really know.

What concentration of niacinamide should I choose?
10 % for maximum sebum-regulating and blemish-fighting action. 5-6 % for barrier reinforcement and soothing. Below 2 %, the effect is mainly moisturizing. There is no documented benefit in excess of 10 %.
Is niacinamide compatible with pregnancy?
Yes - niacinamide is one of the best-tolerated active ingredients during pregnancy and breastfeeding. However, consult your doctor before introducing any active ingredient in this context.
Can niacinamide be used morning and night?
Yes - niacinamide is non-photosensitizing and does not degrade in the light. It can be used morning and night, with no restrictions on the time of application.
How quickly do you see results?
Effects on sebum regulation appear after 4 to 6 weeks. Effects on pores and light blemishes require 8 to 12 weeks of regular use. Action on the cutaneous barrier is visible more quickly (2 to 4 weeks). Anti-ageing effects (firmness, wrinkles) require at least 8 to 12 weeks.
Why does my skin turn red after application?
Transient flushing may occur, mainly at high concentrations (10 % and above). This is often due to partial conversion of niacinamide to niacin, rather than to niacinamide itself. If the phenomenon persists, reduce the concentration or frequency of application.
Niacinamide and vitamin C - really incompatible?
No. The incompatibility historically cited is based on old studies carried out at extreme pH levels and temperatures, which were not reproduced under actual conditions of use. Today's pH-stabilized cosmetic formulas combine the two active ingredients without loss of efficacy.
Further information

The videos by Dr David.

Find out more in a video: how niacinamide really works on the skin, and how to incorporate it into your routine according to your profile.

Who I am

Plastic and aesthetic surgeon. Founder of BeautyDecoded.

15 yearsclinical expertise
200 000+YouTube subscribers
70 000+Instagram & TikTok followers

«This dossier is the synthesis of what I would have liked to explain to each patient before she bought her first serum.»

Your personalized diagnosis

Is your serum adapted to your skin ?

Scan it into the BeautyDecoded app to get a personalized score out of 100, based on your skin type and issues - no marketing, no compromises.

Analyze my serum in the app
Free trial - iOS & Android
Dr Sylvain David Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded

This information is for educational purposes only and does not replace a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded is an artificial intelligence analysis application and is not a medical diagnostic tool. The results presented depend on the user's diligence and skin type.