Polyglutamic acid: the revolutionary moisturizing active ingredient
In the world of skincare, new active ingredients are constantly emerging, promising unprecedented benefits. One of these has particularly caught the attention of cosmetology experts: polyglutamic acid (PGA). This water-soluble biopolymer, derived from the fermentation of soybeans, is a powerful moisturizing and plumping agent. With its exceptional ability to retain water, it surpasses hyaluronic acid in terms of skin hydration. But what are its real benefits, and how can it be used effectively?
What is polyglutamic acid?
Polyglutamic acid is an amino acid polymer derived from glutamic acid. Initially studied for its biomedical applications, it has been incorporated into cosmetic formulations due to its remarkable moisturizing properties. It is obtained through bacterial fermentation, particularly from Bacillus subtilis, a microorganism involved in the production of nattō, a traditional Japanese food.
The benefits of polyglutamic acid for the skin
Intense hydration
PGA stands out for its ability to retain up to 5,000 times its weight in water, forming a protective film that limits evaporation and optimizes skin hydration. Unlike hyaluronic acid, which acts deep within the skin, it acts mainly on the surface to maintain optimal hydration levels.
A plumping and anti-aging effect
Thanks to its moisturizing action, polyglutamic acid helps smooth fine lines and restore volume to the skin. By reducing the production of hyaluronidase, it also prevents the breakdown of hyaluronic acid naturally present in the dermis, thereby prolonging its plumping action.
A stronger skin barrier
PGA stimulates the production of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) molecules, a group of substances capable of capturing and retaining water in the epidermis. By strengthening the skin barrier, it reduces sensitivity to external aggressions and prevents chronic dehydration.
How is polyglutamic acid used in cosmetics?
Integration into care
Polyglutamic acid is found in various cosmetic products such as serums, moisturizers, lotions, and masks. It is often combined with other moisturizing active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid for optimal synergy.
Method of application
- Morning and evening Apply to clean, slightly damp skin to promote absorption.
- In addition to other assets It can be combined with vitamin C, peptides, or retinol to maximize its anti-aging effects.
Recommended concentration
In cosmetic formulations, PGA is generally used at a concentration between 0.1% and 3%. Higher doses could weaken the skin and cause redness, which is why it is not recommended to use pure polyglutamic acid.
