Sensitive Skin? Glycyrrhetinic Acid May Be THE Solution You've Been Waiting For
Persistent redness, stubborn spots, first wrinkles... What if a single plant-based molecule could target all three of these concerns? Extracted from licorice roots,’glycyrrhetinic acid or enoxolone intrigues researchers for its exceptional range of actions: anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidant, depigmenting, and collagen-protecting. Here is an overview of its key actions, known mechanisms, and precautions for use.
1. What is glycyrrhetinic acid?
Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid (biologically active photochemical compound) obtained by hydrolysis of glycyrrhizic acid from licorice (Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra). Insoluble in oil and slightly soluble in water, it is generally incorporated into skincare products at concentrations between 0.5 and 2% without regulatory restrictions; topical concentrations of up to 6% are described as non-irritating.
2. Anti-inflammatory
- Inhibits the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, slows down the NF-κB complex (involved in regulating the immune system), and blocks the synthesis of leukotrienes, which play a central role in acute inflammation.
- Local conversion of cortisone into active cortisol, which helps reduce skin inflammation, with a corticoid-like effect without the side effects of steroids.
Result: rapid reduction in redness and itching, particularly beneficial for sensitive or atopic skin.
3. Microbiome balance and antibacterial action
Tests show bactericidal activity against Staphylococcus aureus. This property makes it an ally in post-lesion care, shaving, or recurring imperfections.
4. Brightening effectiveness
Above 0.5 %, glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanogenesis, and disperses melanin, which is useful in treating melasma, solar lentigines, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
5. Antioxidant shield against environmental stress
By limiting lipid peroxidation, enoxolone neutralizes free radicals caused by UV rays, pollution, and tobacco. It thus limits oxidative stress and protects DNA and the hydrolipidic film.
6. Anti-aging defense
Glycyrrhetinic acid slows down the activity of enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin. The dermal fibers retain their integrity: skin slackening and deep wrinkles appear later.
7. Tolerance and precautions for use
No significant side effects have been reported with topical application. Its non-irritating profile makes it suitable for use during pregnancy, breastfeeding, and even for children aged 3 and above. However, care should be taken to ensure a balanced formulation when the objective is lightening.
